A Truly Hidden Abode, Walnut Canyon Monument

Walnut Canyon, Arizona

One of the best rewards while traveling is stumbling upon something or somewhere totally unexpected. It’s like trying out a new recipe and accidentally adding a wrong ingredient, but the dish actually tastes better than expected.

I’m not sure if that is a great analogy, but bear with me.

Having traveled east and west along Interstate 40 for years, I thought I had seen it all.

But one state always surprises me with new treasures.

And that one state is Arizona. 

Along Interstate 40, there are exciting destinations such as Flagstaff, Williams, and Winslow, just to name a few. There is the gateway to the Grand Canyon, Meteor Crater, Grand Canyon Caverns, and one that I have read the highway sign for but never visited: Walnut Canyon Monument, just ten miles east of Flagstaff.

I decided to stop and check out what the hubbub was with this particular monument.

On my travels, I have been to both National Parks and National Monuments, so what was the difference?

A National Park is usually a very large area that protects the ecosystem and natural scenery, and offers diverse recreational activities for the public. This has to be set aside by an act of Congress.

Examples would be Yellowstone in Wyoming or the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

A National Monument, on the other hand, is created by a presidential order (or can be an act of Congress). A monument generally preserves a specific object, structure, or natural feature of historical value.

Examples would be the Devil’s Tower in Wyoming or the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C.

Well, it was time to visit this Walnut Canyon National Monument.

The short drive from Interstate 40 to the monument is beautiful, with tall green Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir lining the entrance. Being situated at nearly 6,700 feet above sea level, the variety of other trees and foliage is something to truly marvel at. And, if lucky, the traveler may catch sight of an elk or a mule deer. Soaring through the treetops, raptors may be viewed hunting for prey. 

Looking out toward Walnut Canyon from the visitor's center

The visitor center is situated on a sheer cliff overlooking Walnut Canyon, and the view out of the massive glass windows is nothing short of marvelous.

If the center had a bar serving an adult beverage, I may have sat there all day staring out at all the natural beauty. But, alas, they did not, and I wandered off to see what there was to see.

An ancient people known as the Sinagua lived in this canyon, as well as others in the immediate locale and other locations throughout Arizona from 1125 to approximately 1250 AD.

Sinagua is Spanish for ‘without water’. Even though there were plenty of trees and bushes, this area of Arizona lacks a substantial amount of rainfall each year and is subject to long droughts. But the Sinagua people were masters at water conservation, gathering and taking advantage of the small creek at the bottom of the canyon, which is seasonal but did provide the water needed for the settlement of Native Americans.

The canyon floor is nearly 350 feet below the cliff edge of the canyon, and at the bottom are forests of Walnut trees, thus the name of the monument.

Creativity was the key in living at Walnut Canyon

These trees, as well as other varieties, offered the Sinagua a healthy diet of walnuts, acorns, and pinyon nuts. They also gathered grapes and elderberries, as well as growing their own corn and beans on the vistas of the canyon. And they hunted for food and skins with the multitudes of Bighorn Sheep, deer, and antelope that lived in the vicinity. 

These folks were also believed to be traders with not only other local tribes but as far away as Central America. They were masters at handcrafted straw baskets, pottery, and clothing made from animal skins. 

Evidence of the distance they traveled to trade was found by early archaeologists, who found examples of seashells from the Pacific Ocean, turquoise from Santa Fe, and even colorful macaw feathers from Mexico and Central America.

One of many family dwellings of the Sinagua

But the most interesting part of this national monument is how the natives resided. There were no tents, no wooden buildings, but carved-out abodes within the limestone cliffs themselves.

Over millennia, water pounded the limestone, carving large caverns into the rock faces.

It was in these sheltered cliff dwellings that the Sinagua made their homes. The individual rooms were not large but could easily fit a family in the countless structures that can be seen today in Walnut Canyon.

They used natural stone to build walls separating one family from another, and doorways were small for both protection and comfort during all four seasons. Even smaller openings were placed toward the roof of the overhanging rock as a way to allow the smoke from the cooking or heating fires inside the rooms to escape outside, thus not causing a smoke buildup within.

Notice the small opening above the door to allow the smoke to escape

With this information gleaned from the visitors center, it was time to take the one-mile hiking loop around the canyon and see firsthand the ingenuity of a people who lived here for a short one hundred years and then suddenly left. 

Was it a continued drought? Was it warfare from other tribes? Or was it just time to move on?

There is no real solid evidence of why the Sinagua left the canyon, but there is plenty of evidence learned on the hike that these people used the natural surroundings far better than I bet most modern humans could.

It should be mentioned that the trail around the dwellings is pretty flat and easy, but the bloody stairs leaving from the visitor center down to the trail are not for the weak of heart. There are 368 stairs down to the trail, and that means 368 stairs back up to the center, and at an elevation gain of 185 feet, there may be a moment to take a rest and catch your breath.

The trail is easy, the stairs not so much

But the burning of the lungs is worth it when the traveler wanders the trail and beholds the creative mastery of people who settled in Walnut Canyon over 900 years ago.

For more information: https://www.nps.gov/waca/index.htm

John can be reached at beyersbyways@gmail.com

Winslow, Where the Eagles Landed

John R Beyer in Winslow, AZ

My lovely spouse Laureen and I were driving somewhere. Not sure where, since we drive a lot, usually with a purpose, when suddenly a tune began playing on our vehicle’s radio that I hadn’t heard in quite a while. The Eagles were suddenly belting out a song, with frontman Glenn Frey singing about taking it easy. 

“Wow, you know where I’d like to visit?” I asked Laureen.

And soon after, we found ourselves in Winslow, Arizona, and I was standing on the street corner next to a metal piece of art. Actually, the art was a full-sized bronze sculpture of Jackson Browne. Laureen had sauntered off to stand next to a metal representation of Glenn Frey, about thirty feet away from the corner of Route 66 and North Kinsley Avenue.

Jackson Browne and Glenn Frey co-wrote the famous song, ‘Take It Easy’ back in 1972. Actually, Browne had started writing the lyrics in 1971, but was in a bit of a pickle on how to complete it.

The rumor is that Browne had been working on his first album and had these words stuck in his head – “Well, I’m a-standin on a corner in Winslow, Arizona . . .” – and that is as far as he had gotten.

The story goes on to suggest that Browne had been stranded in the town of Winslow when his vehicle broke down. At some point, a woman in a pick-up truck had driven past Browne and lent a helping hand. 

We all love legends.

Hanging with Jackson Browne

It turns out that Glenn Frey and Jackson Browne resided in the same apartment building in Los Angeles, and being struggling musicians, had started up a friendship in the club – ‘Starving musicians and actors guild of greater Los Angeles.’

Browne played the beginning of the unfinished song, and Frey nodded.

“Man, let’s put a woman or women in it, and then we’ll have a hit record,” Frey may have suggested.

So, the following lyrics were born - “Such a fine sight to see. It’s a girl, my lord, in a flatbed Ford, slowin’ down to take a look at me.”

Browne liked the sound, Frey liked the sound, and the Eagles released the song on their debut album, cleverly entitled: Eagles.

That is pretty awesome, since the song never would have been written in the first place if Browne hadn’t known Frey when they were struggling musical artists.

In fact, according to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, out of Cleveland, Ohio, the song – ‘Take It Easy’ released in 1972 actually helped shape the sound of rock and roll as we know it today.

But for such creative minds, couldn’t the band have come up with something a little more original for their debut album? Something like:

‘The Eagles have landed.’

‘Fly like a bunch of Eagles.’

Or, ‘We can play great songs but can’t come up with a name for our first album except the name of the band.’

In all transparency, according to my research, it may have been that Browne had been stranded at a Der Wienerschnitzel in Flagstaff, rather than the quaint little town of Winslow.

But I can’t even imagine the lyrics of that song.

‘Well, I’m a-standin on a corner in Flagstaff, Arizona with a chili dog and fries. My shirt is a mess, and such a fine sight to see, a car hop with a handful of napkins.’

Nope, wouldn’t make it in the top billion hits. We’ll stay with Winslow, Arizona, for this column.

So, after doing the touristy kinds of things – posing next to the statues for photos, standing in the middle of the street for photos, asking people to take photos of us, taking photos for them, and then taking a bunch of selfies – we were exhausted.

Laureen Beyer standing near the famous truck in Winslow, AZ

It was time to truly take it easy, and we did.

We were staying at the La Posada Hotel in Winslow and believed an adult libation while sitting in one of the many beautiful gardens would be a resplendent way to take it easy.

It was.

La Posada Hotel was built in 1930 by Fred Harvey of the famous railroad Harvey House chain, and designed by one of his favorite architects, Jane Colter.

In fact, it was Fred Harvey’s vision to create the first restaurant chain, and he used that chain and the railroad depots they were situated to draw huge groups of tourists to the Southwest. 

This hotel was to be a shining example for all to see and experience, and Harvey spared no expense on his dream. Well over two million dollars was spent on the hotel and the grounds when it was built in the Depression-era 1929 – that is well over a zillion dollars in today’s money.

And Colter had the run of the whole operation, from the design to the gardens, the linen to be used by the diners, and even the uniforms the staff would be wearing. Colter believed it to be one of her most glorious achievements, and today, La Posada is considered one of the most impressive and beautiful buildings in the entire Southwest.

With the construction of super-highways and the lack of railroad travelers, the hotel only lasted twenty-seven years before it was closed to the public. Most of the interior furnishings were auctioned off in 1959, and by the early 1960’s much of the hotel had been gutted – being used a bit here and there by the Santa Fe Railway as offices.

In fact, in 1994, the railway decided to abandon the property altogether and have it demolished.

Those railroad kingpins – where is their love of history?

But, after the National Trust for Historic Preservation learned of the possible demolition by the Santa Fe, the 80,000 square foot building was placed on the endangered list.

“Tear down La Posada? Never!” Allan Affeldt may have exclaimed to his wife, the internationally recognized artist, Tina Mion.

“But, Allan, we don’t know anything about running a hotel, let alone renovating it,” Tina likely responded.

“Well, it’s a really cool building, so let’s see what we can do to preserve it,” Allan may have been overheard replying to Tina.

And preserve this architectural marvel, they did. 

It took three long years of negotiating with the railroad before Allan and Tina were allowed to purchase the run-down hotel. They moved in on April 1, 1997.

Though it was April Fool’s Day, the couple knew it was no joke and a lot of work was ahead of them. Then came along their third partner, Daniel Lutzick, who took the role of General Manager.

What they accomplished in restoring a building which had been virtually abandoned since 1959 and fallen into almost complete disrepair is stunning.

Today, La Posada is one of the most sought-after hotel destinations in the United States. It has been rated in the top twenty for hotels in the Southwest by Conde Nast Traveler, and has received numerous other awards, marking this as a worthwhile place to visit.

The historic hotel in Winslow, AZ - La Posada

Besides a first-class hotel and a tasty restaurant, The Turquoise Room, La Posada is also a showcase for unique artwork, much of which was created by co-owner Tina Mion. In fact, the entire complex is a living museum, with artifacts from the early days when Fred Harvey owned the hotel, to Native American history, as well as the history of celebrities who had spent time there in the early days of the hotel's creation.

Such early big names as Gene Autry, Howard Hughes, Charles Lindbergh, Dorothy Lamour, and Clark Gable, just to name a few.

It was the place for the rich and famous to plop down after a long day’s drive along Route 66 heading east or west.

But getting back to the town of Winslow –a small town located in Navajo County, Arizona with a population of nearly ten thousand citizens.

It boasts a main street which brings back the nostalgia of the early days of Route 66, with businesses lining both sides of the street. There is a homey feel to the downtown area, with restaurants and brew houses within walking distance from just about anywhere.

“I like this town,” I stated to Laureen while we sauntered down the sidewalk.

“You like any town with a local brewery,” she responded.

I nodded. “You gotta have your priorities.”

Winslow is also the gateway for so many outdoor activities – Meteor Crater, the Homolovi Ruins, the Painted Desert, the Petrified Forest, the Apache Death Cave, and so many other places lie within a short drive.

There is a lot to do in this little burg.

One such place brought a tear for both of us. That was the 9-11 Remembrance Gardens. It is just on the outskirts of town, heading east on Route 66. A flag that was flown at the Pentagon flutters not far from two large steel beams from the World Trade Center, twisted and broken. These were donated to the town, and the park, which was built around the beams, was dedicated on September 11, 2002. 

A quiet place to sit and reflect

These beams are the largest entrusted to any community in the nation, and it is the community of Winslow that truly got behind the effort to create this memorial. Everyone from elementary and ROTC students to local business owners volunteered to pitch in to build and maintain this garden.

These beams stand tall and strong in that place for all to see – and for all to never forget.

That alone is reason enough to visit Winslow.

John can be reached at, beyersbyways@gmail.com

Kingman with The Big Texan's

John R Beyer standing next to the humongous cow

I had never seen such a large cow being towed on a trailer behind a solid black SUV. I have seen cows on ranches, on television, and in the backs of trucks, but this cow was huge. Okay, it was not a real cow. The cow was a plastic-molded beast that took up most of a long flatbed trailer and weighed in at over 700 pounds. 

It was being driven by a group of Texans cruising from Santa Monica all the way to Chicago along Route 66. It belonged to The Big Texan Steak Ranch, out of Amarillo, Texas. This world-famous restaurant and brewery promises that if a customer can consume a 72-ounce steak with all the trimmings in less than an hour, then that meal is free.

The cardiologist visit is upon the diner though.

This trip by The Big Texan Steak Ranch was a 13-day advertising odyssey to promote the 100th anniversary of Route 66, tied in with plenty of red, white, and blue as homage to the United States 250th birthday.

The thought of crossing half the country intrigued me as a writer, explorer, and just one proud American, but time can be sometimes challenging, and unfortunately, I could only spare three days on what John Steinbeck called the Mother Road.

I’ve traveled parts of Route 66 numerous times, but this would be the first time in a caravan featuring classic cars, classic people, and a classic plastic cow.

Just one of the many classic vehicles on display in Kingman, AZ

The weather was warm in Kingman as the cow made its appearance, but already a sizable crowd was milling around Locomotive Park near the corner of Beale Street and Grandview Avenue. A tourist can not miss this park, also known as Metcalfe Park, with the huge Santa Fe Steam Locomotive sporting number 3759 detailed along its jet-black metal frame.

As the team from The Big Texan Steak Ranch was setting up for the 72-ounce eating contest, I decided to meander a bit up Beale Street and see what I could see.

I have always liked Kingman, Arizona. It has two distinct sides to it that many cities do not share.

On this side of town, the historic section, you have the history of this once-bustling railroad town. It still is, but in its heyday, steam-engined locomotives would stop for a water fill-up before heading either east or west out of town.

All within walking distance, for those who like to stretch their legs, are the Bonelli House, built in 1915, the Hotel Beale, constructed in 1899, the Hotel Brunswick, erected in 1907, and the Powerhouse, built in 1907, which now hosts the Kingman Visitor Center.

Hotel Brunswick in Kingman, Arizona

Each historic building has its particular niche in Kingman, but one of the most interesting is the Hotel Beale.

Hotel Beale in Kingman, Arizona

An earlier fire destroyed the original Hubbs House at the location, and the rebuilding of the later known Hotel Beale was created with a brick-and-masonry construction. Which is a pretty smart thing to do to decrease an errant structural fire from taking down the entire block.

In 1906, the property was purchased by the actor Andy Devine’s parents, Tom and Amy Devine. The famous cowboy actor grew up there, mixing it up with travelers from the railroad, workers, and those who were just moisying through Kingman on their way to here or there.

Rumor has it that Andy Devine learned his acting skills by meeting so many interesting and sometimes odd fellows who frequented the hotel during his growing-up years in Kingman.

Famous folks like Buster Keaton stayed at the Hotel Beale while filming his movie, Go West, in 1925, and Charles Lindbergh stayed at the Hotel Beale while building a local airfield near Kingman.

But, as a writer, the most important person to stay at the hotel was Louis L’Amour, who stayed there quite often while working at the Katherine Mine near the Colorado River. That is also why Katherine Landing on Lake Mohave is called such, after the mine's founder’s sister, Katherine.

Unfortunately, the hotel has been abandoned for decades, but there is hope that the city of Kingman or a generous benefactor could bring the building back to its historic splendor.

I was getting a bit exhausted with all the history of Kingman and decided a cold beverage may be in store.

Thus, I found myself at the Rickety Cricket Brewing on Beale Street. A great place for a cold libation and perhaps a bite of this or that. One of my favorite places in Kingman to stop in and enjoy the atmosphere, food, and good selection of taps.

Rickety Cricket Brewing in Kingman, Arizona

Afterwards, I sauntered down Beale Street westbound toward the goings on in Locomotive Park but could not resist stopping in at the Black Bridge Brewery. It was warm, and the walk from Rickety Cricket Brewing had gotten me rather parched. One more for the road - though I was not driving since my hotel was just around the corner and my feet were my transportation for the moment. So, it was actually one more for the sidewalk.

Paul Bakas and John R Beyer are enjoying a rest at the Black Bridge Brewery 

Within thirty minutes, a large crowd was standing in Locomotive Park watching all the action near beneath the tarps covering a long table with folks who believed they could outeat the contest The Big Texan Steak Ranch was dishing out.

Contestants munching away

It was a fun-filled time with laughter, yelling, and goading on by the crowd watching the participants slowly but effectively putting away every bite.

Some attacked the steak alone. Some attacked the side dishes first. Others attacked like a shark seeing a bleeding swimmer on a lonely beach, grabbing every morsel available.

And the winner is???

It was fascinating, gruesome, and fulfilling.

Soon, after nearly thirty minutes, there was a winner and asked how he felt by one of the emcees. Hestated the obvious: “Full.”

It was a great day spent in Kingman. I met new friends, ditched others before they got a chance to see me, and learned that there is no way I could take on the eating wager The Big Texan Steak Ranch offers.

I waved goodbye to the huge plastic bovine and called it an evening, wondering what tomorrow’s adventure would bring.

For more information:

https://ricketycricketbrewing.com/

https://www.blackbridgebreweryaz.com/

https://www.explorekingman.com/attraction-Powerhouse-Route-66-Museum/

John can be contacted at; beyersbyways@gmail.com