USS Midway, San Diego

John in front of the USS Midway in San Diego

As I huffed out a large breath, wondering if my lungs would recuperate, I asked Laureen how many steps we had taken during our visit to the USS Midway Museum in San Diego.

“I think,” she replied in a gasp, “my watch says around sixty-five thousand, but that could be wrong since my eyes are tearing up and I can’t see clearly.”

That’s a lot of steps. I’m used to maybe two hundred per day unless I have to use the restroom more often, depending on the day of the week.

But here we were, visiting the USS Midway and traversing all around this wonderful aircraft carrier launched out of Newport News, Virginia, on March 3, 1945. It never served in WWII, but has seen plenty of action since it was officially commissioned in September of that same year.

Laureen and I love San Diego. Try to get there as often as we can, but one historical place we’ve never set foot on until a recent weekend was the USS Midway aircraft carrier, permanently docked at the Embarcadero waterfront at Navy Pier.

Why we hadn’t, in the past, taken a tour aboard this gorgeous water war machine, since it has been docked there for over twenty years, is a question we asked ourselves. Thus, the reason we had our walking shoes on and eyes watching the steps taken.

The ship is huge. Over one thousand feet long, 258 feet wide at its widest point, and as tall as a 20-story building. Wandering everywhere the tour allows is not for the weak of heart but is a must-see to truly marvel at the ingenuity and magnitude of what the United States Navy has to offer.

We walked the flight deck, studying the 30 aircraft meticulously taken care of over the vast four-acre area on the USS Midway. 

Just some of the helicopters for tourists to visit

There was the F-4 Phantom III, the A-9 Corsair II, the TBM Avenger, the UH-1 Huey helicopter, and so many more aircraft the visitor can wander and gaze at, including the one made terrifically famous in the Tom Cruise film, Top Gun, the Grumman F-14 Tomcat.

A plane for any aircraft enthusiast

Just one of many planes on display

It was a somewhat warm but overcast day as we wandered about the USS Midway anchored in the San Diego Bay, but nothing could deter us from the excitement of visiting such a naval marvel as this ship is.

When active, the ship boasted a complement of nearly 4,700 personnel, broken up into the regular ship's company, the aircraft wing, and the smaller but lethal group of Marines assigned to the ship.

It was a floating city. And with a city comes extracurricular activities to make sure no one ever got bored while circumventing the Earth.

One of the best events was the steel beach picnics, where bbq’s were set up on deck, and the crew played sports, sang songs, listened to music, and enjoyed other activities. Movie nights, talent shows, driving golf balls off the deck into the ocean, and skeet shooting were done regularly to make sure being away from home for long deployments didn't feel that long or lonely.

The flight deck is 4 acres, plenty of room for activities

Plenty of room for crew and guests to wander the USS Midway

Although the ship entered service not long after WWII ended, it saw plenty of action during the Vietnam War and the Gulf Wars. Sortie after sortie, planes took off and landed along the lengthy runway on the ship, making sure that American interests were well handled no matter where on the globe the floating fighting ship was.

As a floating museum, the USS Midway is a must for any history enthusiast or just any person wanting to climb aboard a historic piece of American pride and truly respect the men and women who once sailed her.

Looking southwest toward Coronado Island

There are dozens of volunteer docents, most retired military, who are glad to stand with a visitor and answer any questions that may pop up. They know the answers because they love the history and splendor of this ship and what it represents.

One docent, Terry, told us, “I love coming here and meeting people from all over the world. They ask questions, and I do the best I can in answering every one of them. Of course, if there weren’t any tourists, I would still come here; it’s an honor to those who served aboard her.”

Terry then told us of a tour to the Castle, where all the goings-on of the ship are run from. “If you hurry, you will get the first tour, which isn’t crowded; later in the day it can be an hour wait.”

I learned about waiting from Disneyland. I hate waiting in lines, so off we ran over the flight deck and within minutes were climbing steep metal stairs up four decks to where the command post sits high above the ocean.

These are really straight-up ladders comprising 12 steps per floor, and by the time I had made it to number 48, I was tired and decided to sit in the Captain’s chair overlooking all the action down below on the flight deck.

View of the flight deck from the Castle

The sense of power which overtook me was sensational while sitting in the commander’s chair. I ordered Laureen to launch 4 Tomcats to ensure we had the proper dinner reservations at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, or else!

Laureen enjoying the power of running the ship

She only smiled as she listened to the docent explain every nuance of the command bridge. The view was outstanding as we all looked out the wide glass windows facing Coronado Island, perhaps wondering what it would have been like gazing across open ocean waters, wondering if an enemy was also peering your way.

After leaving the Castle, we headed into the belly of the aircraft carrier to the crew's quarters, the many dining halls, the kitchen, the laundry, the engine room, the infirmary, the arms lockers, and so much more that I forgot all I saw except the number of stairways and ladders that each of the nearly 20 floors required to manoeuvre up and around.

One of the officers' quarters aboard the USS Midway

In the dining hall, in honor of those who did not return

The hallways were narrow, the ladders steep, the bunks tiny, which shows that to be aboard the USS Midway was a guaranteed way to keep in shape.

No one was knocking back a dozen Crispy Cremes and then racing up and down between decks. Nope, instant heart attack, though maybe with a smile on a glazed face.

We spent four hours on the ship, and that was probably not enough. But with nearly a hundred thousand steps on my made-up watch, I was tired and thirsty.

Luckily, there was the Cafe 41, which served adult libations on the aft deck, which helped with my parched throat and tired feet.

John R Beyer enjoying Cafe 41

Why we had not visited the USS Midway in the past, we don’t know. But we will be back again to enjoy all the Navy has to offer aboard this wonderful fighting ship.

John can be contacted at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

For more information: 

https://www.midway.org/

The quirky ghost town of Nelson, Nevada

 

Years ago, Laureen and I sat down to watch the 2001 film, 3,000 miles to Graceland one evening. Not sure why, but we are fans of Kevin Costner and Kurt Russell and decided to give it a shot.

We like doing that - watching a film on a shot.

Most end up as a 22 caliber plink but some end up as a full blown 44 caliber full-metal-jacket blast. While on the subject, may I mention Top Gun Maverick? That was, in my opinion, a macho-side-winder-missile of a film. But I digress.

The Graceland film was probably, in my ‘Beyer what round would this film rate’ opinion, would be a solid 40 caliber. Enough to do damage but not enough to awaken neighbors three doors down.

I am not sure why I am using such terms to determine the strength of a film but perhaps since I recently went to a legal shooting range with a few friends, the aroma of gunpowder is still circulating through my senses.

Anyway, Laureen and I drove to the film location for one of the scenes in the film - the ghost town of Nelson in Nevada.

This is where Costner, as nasty as his character is, flicks his lit cigarette out of the car and blows up the place, sending a couple of full sized planes right into the air.

Sections of the planes are still there, with one sticking right out of the ground as though it crashed nose first.

Destroyed aircraft from film 3,000 Miles to Graceland in Nelson, Nevada

Really cool.

Unlike most ghost towns I visit, Nelson is a bit different. Not the average ghost town where buildings are there but mostly not. Rumors of past lives are envisioned across desert landscapes or remote mountain valleys. No, Nelson is unique in that aspect.

As we drove through the eleven miles of desert toward Nelson off the 95 and on the 165, there were a lot of Joshua trees, creosote bushes, cacti, and other plants which I cannot possibly name.

“Beautiful area,” Laureen mentioned.

“Some folks think the desert is boring,” I replied. I had actually heard someone say that once, but then again they also did not believe Sasquatches existed.

“Then they have not traveled much,” Laureen said.

Besides being one of the settings for a movie about a bunch of Elvis impersonators about to rob a casino in Las Vegas, the town of Nelson has a fascinating history.

A long detailed history of exploration, riches, murder, and all the other ingredients that make visiting such a place a must.

We suddenly came into view a collection of modular homes, stick built homes and lots with no homes at all. In fact, some of the homes were large and beautiful. 

“Are we there?” I asked.

“We just passed a sign that indicated we had arrived in Nelson,” Laureen replied.

This was not a ghost town at all. Folks walking around, doggies prancing in front yards, people driving modern cars instead of horse and buggies, and not a ruin in sight.

“I think we’ve been bamboozled,” I uttered.

Nope, the ghost town was about another mile or so past the present and very much alive village of Nelson.

In 1775, a group of Spaniards were walking here and there about this locale when they discovered pockets of rich ore containing large amounts of gold.

Immediately they called the area, El Dorado, which in Spanish meant any place where riches, opportunity, or abundance of things can be found. And this, El Dorado, was such a place just west of the rushing Colorado River.

After the Spaniards left, the area was searched now and then, but in 1859 large lodes of both gold and silver were discovered and El Dorado came into full force, creating one of the largest mining booms in Nevada state history.

It seems that every time I conduct research about a mineral strike, it happens to be one of the largest in that particular state.

“We got us another boom,” one old miner may have said to another.

The other miner may have nodded his unkempt bearded head. “Yes, and last week I was at another boom over yonder.”  

Two years later the rush for riches was truly on and a steamboat landing was created at the mouth of Eldorado Canyon at the shore of the Colorado River to transport goods to the quickly forming town and to take the rich ore south along the river.

The ore would be transported nearby on the Colorado River

The first name for this mining bonanza along the Colorado River was Colorado City. Must have taken moments to come up with that name. Then it was changed to simply Eldorado.

It should be noted that this was before any man made dams were along the length of the Colorado River and thus supplies and riches could be transported nearly 350 miles from this location all the way to the Gulf of California.

Try that today. In fact don’t…unless you feel like dragging your boat out of the water in front of Hoover Dam, Davis Dam, and the Dam Dam.

With money rolling in from the various mines in the area, the town of Eldorado continued to grow and one of the richest was the Techatticup Mine which produced millions of dollars from gold, silver, copper, and lead.

One of the canyons leading to riches in Nelson, Nevada

And with all such boom towns, another element came to town - hooligans.

Yes, Tom Hooligan moved to Eldorado in 1897. Okay, I may have made that name up, but bad hombres and bad hombres showed up, making the mining camp a very dangerous place to reside.

Since Eldorado Canyon was so narrow and yet so rich in mineral deposits routine, arguments arose between miners, and murder became a way of life. And, add to that fact that the Civil War hadn’t ended that long ago, deserters from both the Union and Confederate armies migrated there believing the location in Nevada was so isolated they would not be hunted down by the authorities.

Of course, there were no animus feelings between those two factions at all. Did I mention that murder became a fact of life?

A town was eventually built further up the canyon away from the rushing river since that area had seen the building of a stamp mill and docks for the steamships that would visit Eldorado on a routine manner and had become too crowded. 

In 1897, a prospector and camp leader by the name of Charles Nelson was found murdered in his home, along with four other people. The killings were blamed on a Native American by the name of Avote. The town’s name was then changed to Nelson in his honor.

Nelson was a different sort of mining camp, in which the majority see their boom last a few years at most and then dry up. No, this locale produced rich minerals from its founding all the way until 1945.

Around 1901 to 1905, railroads were becoming more and more accessible for the citizens of Nelson to move products and soon there was no longer the need for the steamboats along the Colorado River. It was faster and cheaper to bring goods in or ship out the needs of the mining boomtown by rail.

In 1907, the post office closed in Eldorado and was moved to Nelson.

As we walked around the now eclectic ghost town of Nelson, we marveled at the displays of vintage automobiles and trucks scattered everywhere. Some were parked along the only paved road through town. Some were parked in dirt parking lots in front of original buildings from the heyday of Nelson. Some were just parked as though the owner had just exited the vehicle to carry on some business in a nearby structure.

Some strange looking vehicles in Nelson, Nevada

There are signs indicating that this isn’t just a ghost town but a town where people live. The wording on the signs are clear - ‘Leave before Dark.’ The residents do not want tourists trampling all over private property looking at this or that artifact.

John R Beyer standing in the doorway in Nelson, Nevada

It was a wonderful couple of hours we spent trampling around - it was early in the morning. The gift shop/visitor center was open and we chit-chatted with a woman running the place. She mentioned that mine tours are available and reservations can easily be made by visiting the Eldorado Canyon Mine Tours website. Not only can the guests visit the actual mines in the area which produced the boom, but the tour also incorporates visiting film sites, wedding venues, great photo opportunities, and overall explains the entire history of Nelson.

The main street in Nelson, Nevada

In fact, we watched as three or four small tour buses entered the small town and deposited tourists for their day of adventure.

It was windy, so we decided to pack it in and head west, knowing we would be back to explore much more of this Eldorado Canyon.

For more information: https://www.eldoradocanyonminetours.com/index.html

John can be contacted at: beyersbyways@gmail.com