Re-Visit to Pisgah Crater

Pisgah Crater

I have written about the marvelous Pisgah Crater about twenty miles east of the town of Newberry Springs in the past. Even wrote a fictional account of it titled, Secret of Pisgah Crater.

Most people probably never notice the lurking dark volcanic cinder cone which is bordered on the south by the Lava Bed Mountains, to the southeast by the Bullion Mountains, to the west by the Rodman Mountains, and to the north by the Cady Mountains - though it is easily seen from either Route 66 or Interstate 40.

Looking north from Pisgah Crater toward Route 66 and Interstate 40

For most travelers, it is just another hill along the vast stretches of the Mojave Desert, a seemingly never ending patch of brown dirt and sand sparsely covered with sporadic Creosote, Sage, Salt bushes and the occasional Ocotillo.

Many may think it is just a large dead piece of land. 

But, there lies its mystique and wonder. Because this desert is neither dead nor barren - it is full of life with bounding hares, sly Kit Foxes, Kangaroo rats, squirrels, and sometimes, if a person is fortunate enough, the elusive Bighorn Sheep. 

Of course, during certain months of the year a visitor should be aware of the other things crawling across the miles and miles of desert floor, from the venomous snakes like the Sidewinder, the Diamond Back, and the Mojave rattlesnakes, to the more benign California Kingsnake, the Gopher, and other harmless varieties of snakes.

Be careful hiking in the Mojave Desert 

Then there are countless lizards like the Common chuckwalla, the Desert horned, the Desert iguana, or the Mojave fringe-toed who spend their day sunning upon rocks or hunting for insects for nourishment. 

Circling the clear blue skies the tourist may catch a glimpse of the Swainson’s Hawk, a Cactus Wren, or a quick footed Roadrunner, along with the Common Raven and possibly a Seagull or two.

The Mojave Desert is a land full of life and action. 

I never forget the majesty of the desert while traveling the rough back roads crisscrossing here and there in this empty landscape.

It is a quiet, unhurried, and calming place to visit. An almost rebirth of one's senses - be that a little over dramatic, it is how I feel while driving through it.

The same sense of peace came over me recently while re-visiting Pisgah Crater.

It is a relatively new volcano, though not active, having last erupted approximately 20,000 to 50,000 years ago. Though some geologists believe an eruption may have occurred as recently as 2,000 years ago. 

Years ago, I camped at the crater while a rock band was filming a music video. It was surreal - I had come for peace and quiet and suddenly found myself surrounded with dozens of extras dressed as zombies approaching a stage while a helicopter buzzed the crater filming the whole thing.

John R Beyer with extra for music video, Lola

It was midnight before the multitude of trucks, gear, and people exited the roughly paved road toward Interstate 40, leaving me in total darkness and solitude.

The crater was the site of the Mount Pisgah Volcanic Cinders Mine, where tons of pumice was mined for use for the railroad ballast along the Santa Fe Railroad lines. Now it belongs to a Canadian company, Can-Cal Resources Limited, who specialize in exploration for precious metals. In the half dozen times I’ve visited the site in the past years I’ve never seen anyone working the crater though.

Multi-colored minerals litter the floor of Pisgah Crater

One of the many remarkable things about the Pisgah crater is the black sand that permeates the entire area, besides the red and black cinder pumice. It’s very fine and was used as the black sands for the film Letters from Iwo Jima, produced in 2006.

Drone view of Pisgah Crater with mounds of black sand

Recently I re-visited Pisgah Crater to sit back and relax. This time there was no one there - the way I like it.

The top of the crater rises about 320 feet above the surrounding desert, much has been removed through the years from all the mining operations that occurred there, as well as just centuries of natural erosion. 

For the brave, there are numerous lava tubes - which is a natural tunnel created when a solid tunnel is formed after molten lava has cooled from an eruption. I am not into any sort of spelunking and only have braved short trips through the 200 or so tunnels at Pisgah. And, for the more adventurous there is one nearly 1,300 feet long known as the SPJ Cave.

Ancient lava flows span out miles in circumference from the crater reaching Interstate 40 to the north and allowing drivers to cut through the black ribbons of the pahoehoe texture along Route 66.

Just some of the miles and miles of hardened lava

From a geologic standpoint, it is amazing and many weekends throughout the year teams of geologists can be seen studying the terrain from various universities and professional seminar groups.

On this last visit, I was alone and took out a folding camp chair, cracked open a cold one and just sat marveling at how truly the Mojave Desert was from my vantage point atop the crater.

It was surreal, and that was the way I liked it.

For more information:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pisgah_Crater

John can be reached at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

If anyone would like a free copy of the short story, Secret of Pisgah Crater, just request it and it will be sent to you via attachment in an email.

Expect the Unexpected...

There are times when we may want to go out and simply stare up into the skies -- to regenerate, and marvel at the heavens. The universe is a pretty big place, but looking skyward from a city is sometimes a little disheartening. Too many city lights often block out the millions of stars staring back at us.

There's lots of action going on up there

A dark sky locale is generally called for. No distractions from artificial lights -  just out there in the peace and quiet of the night. Oh, and did I mention really dark?

Such a place is Pisgah Crater. 

 

Pisgah Crater is located in the Basin and Range Province, in the Lavic Lake volcanic field – which means, there’s a lot of ancient lava flows covering the desert floor near the crater. These flows span for many square miles, and in fact, can be easily seen from Interstate 40 or historic Route 66, at about the halfway point between the city of Needles (hometown of Spike, cousin of Snoopy), and Victorville, California, not far from where we make our home. 

Pisgah crater - viewed from the north 

Geologists believe Pisgah may have last erupted somewhere between 20,000 to 50,000 years ago, but there are disagreements about the exact date, even among the experts. Some argue that it may have erupted as little as 2,000 years ago. But, since the Amboy Crater, 54 miles to the east of Pisgah, last erupted about 18,000 years ago, it would make sense that Pisgah probably emptied its magma holdings around the same time. It’s much like how one earthquake can trigger a nearby fault causing a neighboring quake – one close volcanic eruption, can begin another volcanic eruption.

The Pisgah cone once stood at 2,638 feet, but now measures 93 feet shorter, at 2,545 feet. This reduction in height was caused in part by some natural weathering, but also by the impact of mining. It is privately owned by the Can-Cal Resources Limited, a Canadian company which mined the crater for railroad ballast for the Santa Fe Railroad. It appears that mining has not occurred for a few years from the lack of any structures or mining equipment on site.

Though it is private property, easy access proves a boon to many colleges and universities for weekend geology classes. Also, it seems the area has been used in films, music videos, commercials and much more.

The point being: when traveling, always expect the unexpected. 

Approaching the almost totally black volcanic cone one late afternoon, I noticed a number of semi-trucks and trailers parked on a large flat section on the west side of the cone. Suddenly, a helicopter buzzed above and made a daring swoop to the ground and then simply posed in mid-air. Hanging like a hummingbird looking for a feeder.

Why are these trailers on 'my' crater?

“What is going on?” I asked.

Truly, what is going on here?

“A helicopter is hovering,” Paul Bakas replied, my old friend who travels with me when my lovely spouse, Laureen, can’t make the trip. “Now, I think it’s backing up.”

The pilot was outstanding - swooping here and there - feet above the crowds

As we drove up the winding road to the flat surface of Pisgah, we knew instantly that this night was not going to be one of the dark nights, so desired for stargazing.

On the west side of the crater, dozens and dozens of people were milling around, dressed perhaps as aliens, or natives from another time. Skin colored body suits with black stripes over their arms and faces. Some wore outlandishly colored masks.

One woman we met named Lola, informed us she was an extra in a Latin rock video and her job was to walk toward the band as they were playing near the precipice of the volcano. As if the extras were being drawn to the sound like magic.

That sounded very musicesque (I made that term up). The band was there, performing on stage, but no music could be heard. Perhaps, a huge helicopter swooping here and there over the set filming, may have been the reason.

When asked the name of the band, Lola simply replied “I don’t know,” as she walked away in her body suit and painted face, towards the other extras.

Lola - the photo was posed - those actors!

Paul wandered around. He tried asking a limo driver, a food truck owner, anyone who could find, if they knew the band’s name.

“All I got was a Latin rock band,” he told me. “Weird, I asked twelve people.”

“A non-disclosure agreement for everyone?” I asked.

“I’m not a lawyer,” he responded. “But I think you just made that up.”

We watched, after setting up camp, as the actors marched down the hill toward the band and then back up the hill for another take.

Well, not only was the music blacked out, but so was the sky from the stage lighting. Not what we expected for a dark sky night looking at stars. But sitting in camping chairs and watching the action was pretty entertaining.

Always have a plan ‘B’, when plan ‘A’ doesn’t work out. No star gazing perhaps, but the next morning, hiking around the crater proved to be an almost surreal experience. Black sand beneath our boots seemed as though we were walking on another planet.

When time allows, send home a message to a loved one - that would be Laureen

Lava tubes opened up in front of us to be explored (note of caution though, these ancient tunnels where lava once flowed can be dangerous – extreme attention must be stressed).

Lava tubes, deep and long - caution is desired for falling rocks

Pisgah crater is a place to be visited – it’s even a great area to fly a kite. I did, why not?

Go fly a kite! Really, just fly a kite - it's fun.