A virtual rock landscape of colors |
A true balancing act |
John R Beyer, loving the shades of colors |
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Laureen Beyer, holding up a stack of brightly painted rocks |
Lots of visitors each and every day |
J and L Research and Exploration/Beyer's Byways is a blog for travelers and curiosity seekers desiring to learn about the world. John R. Beyer, along with his wife, Laureen, share insights from their travels locally, nationally and internationally. Whether it's about people or places, near or remote, we hope you find something of interest for you here.
A virtual rock landscape of colors |
A true balancing act |
John R Beyer, loving the shades of colors |
![]() |
Laureen Beyer, holding up a stack of brightly painted rocks |
Lots of visitors each and every day |
“Remember when Jessica asked if you had worked on the dam?” Laureen said, as we hiked from the furthest parking lot from the Hoover Dam visitor center. “That was funny.”
I smiled. Nope, I didn't recall that question from my daughter, though I do have memories of hanging off the cliffs on a single rope while drilling dynamite holes into the rock face as we began building the Boulder Dam.
Not John R Beyer at work, but this is how it was done |
“No,” I replied, “but what was funny was when I dropped the pick hammer and it landed in Joey’s head at the bottom of the canyon. Now, that was funny. Except, Joey did walk and talk a bit differently after that.”
Laureen had arranged for a tour of the Hoover Dam, along with 33 of our closest strangers. She believed it was a total dam tour but as we stood in line with our phones ready to scan at the visitor’s center, we learned it was for the power plant section of the dam only.
“I thought it was for the whole dam,” Laureen said.
“Shouldn’t curse,” I replied.
Hoover Dam is an architectural masterpiece - pure genius, guts, and engineering.
Without going into too much history of why Boulder Dam was built in the first place, there were three major reasons - flood control since the river loved to surprise folks living shoreside with unpredicted floods which wiped out crops and towns, to provide controlled/regulated irrigation for farms which help to feed the population, and produce hydroelectric power for all those people who had moved into California, Arizona, and Nevada.
Seemed the thing to do.
In 1869, John Wesley Powell led a group of adventurers down the raging Colorado River in wooden boats. This river’s path and ferocity was unknown to most people, even the Native Americans who had lived near the flowing water for eons.
Powell managed to make it through the sometimes Class 5 rapids in the Grand Canyon and lived to write about it. He was a strong leader, who had served in the Civil War for the Union side and actually lost half of his arm during the Battle of Shiloh in Tennessee but this did not slow the adventurer down.
It was his final reports after the journey down this magnificent river in the southwest that made folks in the east understand the importance it had to the development of the country. Rich mineral finds, large tracts of vacant lands perfect for farming and grazing, and great weather made the idea of converting this river into a life giving bloodline for pioneers could be crucial for an expanding nation.
And, the pioneers heard the call and moved west.
In 1902, Arthur Powell Davis who worked for the Bureau of Reclamation decided that perhaps a dam should be built, or multiple dams.
It would be 30 years before the construction for such an ambitious project could begin.
Laureen and I wandered along with the tour to visit the power plants that make Hoover Dam so important to millions of people living in the southwest.
Over 7 million guests visit the huge Hoover Dam yearly which borders the states of Nevada and Arizona - there is actually a stamp along the dam where a photo can be snapped showing where a person could stand between both states. I chose Nevada - no personal state income tax.
A bridge for vehicles and pedestrians span the Colorado River |
Our guide, Matt, was young and very well versed about the dam and the power plants we were visiting.
“We are now five hundred and thirty-six feet deep into the dam,” Matt said, after we had taken an elevator into the depths of the cement structure.
It was a bit surreal, realizing that on either side of where we were standing there was about a trillion gallons of water pushing against the thick cement walls of the dam.
Laureen Beyer deep within Hoover Dam |
“If these walls busted,” I said to Laureen, “we’d be in Mexico in a matter of minutes.”
My lovely wife has a bit of claustrophobia, so I didn’t press the issue.
“Isn’t that weird? We could be at Cabo Wabo within an hour. Margaritas on me,” I continued.
She gripped my hand so tightly that I looked to see if she had changed places with Chuck Norris.
Matt continued with his dialogue about the building of the Hoover Dam and it was awe inspiring.
“We have to remember that the dam was started in nineteen-thirty-one and finished in nineteen-thirty-six, two years earlier than the date promised,” Matt said. “And, this was men working with picks, shovels, drills, dynamite, and sweat. An unbelievable accomplishment, no matter the year.”
Drill marks can still be seen near Hoover Dam |
At the time such a construction was thought impossible. A building project as the Boulder Dam (it was later renamed Hoover Dam) had never been done and was the largest manmade endeavor attempted at the time.
But that did not stop the chutzpah of American knowhow.
With the leadership of Chief Engineer Frank Crow starting in 1931, the building of the dam and safety of his crews was most on his mind.
Over 5,000 workers were employed to construct the dam and the pay was not wonderful, generally four dollars per day - of course, those who had more dangerous jobs could earn another dollar. It should be noted though, this was during the Great Depression and lines of men from Las Vegas waited daily for a chance to earn a buck or two for their families.
In the years of the building, less than 100 men died during the construction - any death is a tragedy but for such a mammoth and long term project, it was not unexpected deaths would occur.
“And for those who have heard the rumors,” Matt said. “No one was covered by cement and died. No, the deaths were from men falling off cliffs, blasting accidents, heat exhaustion, drowning, and other causes. Terrible as that is.”
During our tour we learned that the amount of cement used is almost unimaginable. “Over four point three million cubic yards of cement was used,” Matt informed us.
“How much is that?” I asked Laureen, she’s smarter in these matters than me.
She simply rolled her eyes. “A lot.”
Turns out that amount of cement could produce a 16 foot highway from New York City to the city of San Francisco. That is a lot of concrete.
South side of Hoover Dam - that's a lot of concrete |
We were hundreds of feet down into the dam, which is over 660 feet wide at the bottom of Boulder Canyon and a narrow 45 feet at the top, where tourists can walk.
“The dam is so wide at the bottom, that twenty percent of the cement is still curing,” Matt told the visitors.
He asked if there were any questions. “How long does the government believe this dam will last,” I asked.
“Good question,” the guide said. “Back in the fifties it was examined and determined it would last one thousand years.”
There was an audible gasp. “But today, we believe it will be closer to four thousand years. Every once in a while core samples are taken from the bottom and studied, that’s how the engineers came up with that last figure.”
In a few minutes we reentered the elevator and traveled upwards about 50 feet to where we were able to view the huge steel turbines stationed within the walls of the dam.
Turbines on the Arizona side of Hoover Dam |
“Above us are two cranes needed to lift these turbines,” Matt said. “They are able to lift three hundred tons each.”
Looking across the nearly 650 feet to the other end of the cavernous interior of the dam was amazing. Fork lifts, trucks, and everything needed to keep these turbines which produced ample energy for millions of people looked like toys in comparison to each of the size of the machinery.
There are 17 such turbines in the complex, nine on the Arizona side and eight on the Nevada side. Our guide went into a monologue about the megawatts produced as billions of gallons of water rushed into each turbine spinning its innards like a washing machine - except a whole lot faster.
I was suddenly confused with all the technical talk.
Just one of the water pipes within Hoover Dam |
Soon the tour was over and as we walked across the top of the dam, I could only ponder what John Wesley Powell would think about this dam which tamed the mighty Colorado River.
I suspect he would smile.
For more information: Hoover Dam | Bureau of Reclamation (usbr.gov)
May this New Year that is upon us find you planning wonderful and exciting escapes to places you have never been before. This round ball of a planet has so much to offer and you have so much to offer it in return.
Happy New Year from the Mob Museum in Las Vegas, Nevada |
Get out and and travel in 2024!!!!
Traveling freely along the Amazon River in Peru - Make it yours
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The Alamo, Texas |
“I’m going to be gone for two or three weeks,” I looked at Laureen. “Who’s going to make your coffee each morning?”
My trip to northern Nevada, Western Idaho, Eastern Oregon, and Northern California had been in the works for awhile. I do, occasionally plan trips but most of the time I wing it. This time I had some destinations in mind - actually I didn’t but pretended I did.
My friend Paul asked, “Where are you going?”
“The byways, my friend.”
“You have no idea, do you?”
I really didn’t but I knew I would be driving north at the beginning of August. Then Laureen changed my plans.
She broke her right foot. I think it was the metamucil or the metacognitive bone, but I probably have that wrong - I do remember Laureen explaining which bone it was that was broken after the x-ray but I wasn’t really listening.
Being the dutiful husband I am, I postponed the trip to be at her beck and call. And in the following six weeks, there was a lot of beckoning and a lot of calling
She mended just fine but I was exhausted. I had to get on the road for some relaxation.
One hurdle while driving north on Interstate 15 toward northern Nevada is that the traveler must navigate the traffic of Las Vegas.
The economy may not be looking so great right now but try explaining that to the builders in Sin City.
New housing projects are popping up like weeds. Huge industrial complexes are sprouting like weeds. Hotels and apartment buildings are growing like weeds. And medicinal cannabis clinics are appearing like - well, weeds.
It was so confusing driving in stop and go traffic along Interstate 15 with all the freeway ramps and lanes closed that finally my GPS sent me a message: ‘you are now on your own.’
Laureen called me on my second day on the trip.
“Where are you?”
“I’m on Flamingo Boulevard for the thirtieth time in the past forty-eight hours.”
“So, stop and ask for help,” she replied.
Something no true man wants to do, but I had. A kindly Las Vegas police officer advised me, “I’ve been on Tropicana for the past three days. I don’t know where I am now.”
A week later, I located Route 93 and headed north. Nearly two hours after that, I came to the small quaint village by the name of Alamo.
The sun was slowly setting in the west, as it usually does, and my energy levels were in sync with that blazing bag of hydrogen and helium.
Since I was pulling the tent trailer, or pop-up trailer as some like to call it, I pulled into Pickett’s RV Park and obtained a space.
It was a nice place to stay for the night. Courteous folks, large sites, and shady trees.
I did not know much about this berg but soon learned it is very small. Took thirty seconds to come to that realization. No stop sign. No traffic signal. Just the long black pavement of the highway bustling past a Sinclair gas station.
The town has a population of around 1,000 people and is pretty rural. Sitting along State Route 95 only 90 miles north of Las Vegas does allow the small locale plenty of byway travelers which support the couple of gas stations and motels in the area.
Sitting at nearly 3,500 feet in elevation gives the area a coolness that the folks down the hill in Vegas never feel.
“The pavements are melting,” one resident of Las Vegas may say to another during the summer. “Let’s head to Alamo.”
“What can we do there?”
“Not become a pile of liquid goo.”
A post office has been in operation since 1905, so Alamo is not a ghost town per definition.
I took a few moments (after setting up a very bougie sort of camp with carpets, a welcome mat that I do not really mean, and exterior solar lights), to drive the few streets the town has to offer in the way of neighborhoods.
It was impressive. Beautiful green lawns, tall billowing trees set against the background of neatly painted and well-kept houses. The schools I drove by would be the envy of any larger town.
Alamo has it going on, except for a lack of restaurants and bars.
The town was founded by a group of Mormons and with their religious beliefs concerning abstinence from alcohol, none was allowed within the town limits.
That changed earlier this year, when the town board started allowing alcohol sales in gas stations and supermarkets, but bars were still a no-no.
No issue for this traveling writer - always carry a large ice chest just in case you end up in a dry county or town.
Many believe the founders of the town wanted to immortalize the battle which took place nearly 1,400 miles southeast of their mainly ranching community.
But, the true story may be that when the community was imagined by Fred Allen, Mike Botts, Bert Riggs, and William Stewart, they thought the name Alamo, which is Spanish for poplar, would be appropriate because of all the poplar trees growing in the area.
“Remember the Alamo trees,” Riggs may have yelled at a community meeting.
“Let’s forgo the tree part, shall we,” Stewart may have returned.
Alamo is located within the Pahranagat Valley, and no matter how hard I tried I could not pronounce that name, but it is a beautiful long valley with soft rolling hills dotted here and there with ranches. Long white fences squaring off grasslands where horses and cattle seem pretty happy just munching away.
A few miles to the south along Route 93 is the Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge.
It is over a 100 years old and was started by the locals as a respite for migratory fowl which would be flying here and there on their way somewhere.
The over 5,000 acre refuge actually wasn’t created officially until August of 1963 in Lincoln County and is part of the larger Desert National Wildlife Refuge Complex. This complex, at nearly 2 million acres, happens to be the largest such refuge in the lower 48 states.
Rumor has it that Hawaii did not return a phone call since it was embarrassed that all they had was a bunch of islands, and Alaska scoffed saying that the average citizen there had that many acres in their front yards.
I drove to the refuge and found it very relaxing and peaceful just sitting on one of the many benches that surround a large lake.
People in motorhomes, camping vans, and tents seemed very content while sitting in their lawn chairs in the designated campsites staring out across the sparkling blue waters toward the Badger Mountains to the west.
“We love it here,” Beatrice told me. “We’re from Henderson and like to get away up here and away from the hustle and bustle of city life.”
Her husband, Anthony, told me he likes to look for the green-winged teal, various mallards, pintails, and shovelers.
I had no idea what he was talking about but smiled as though I did. “Any luck today?”
“A beautiful mallard, but that’s about it,” Anthony stated. “Though to be honest, I’m just relaxing.”
Easy to see how that can be the call of the day. A slight breeze with the temperature in the mid-seventies made for a perfect outing.
The entire valley has seen humans strolling around its lush lakes and rolling hills for thousands of years.
Evidence of early American Indian tribes have either lived or traveled through the valley for the past 8,000 to 13,000 years ago. With all the abundant wildlife available in the area it was a no-brainer for the native tribes to settle here.
Deer, elk, antelope roam the hills and valleys freely making hunting relatively easy for experienced hunters. The lakes and streams are full of trout, crappie, and catfish. Tens of thousands of fowl, of every species, make their way across this vast land giving the opportunity of those living here to have plenty to eat.
This valley had it all from ancient inhabitants all the way to the modern ones.
So, is Alamo worth a visit on its own? Not sure I would make it a final destination, but for a place to slow down for the night and relax, then definitely yes.
And, besides - it is only 13 miles to the most eastern section of the Extraterrestrial Highway.
But then again it is fast! |
A very Patriotic sort of raceway - nice touch |
These go-carts are not for the faint at heart |
Who is that Blur? |
L and J looking oh so sexy |
Waiting for the Green and then gun it for all its worth |
You're next, and this time I mean it! |
Antici --- pa ---tion |
Donning the racing gear |
Who be the speed demon out there? |
The Mob Museum - Las Vegas |
People on Facebook should think this way |
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Good-looking guy, this Bugsy. |
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Not a good end for Bugsy |
A few places the Mafia had control in - as far as we know |
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Please stand against wall with hands behind your back |
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Shave and a Haircut 2 bullets |
We don't know a thing, Copper! Go blow your whistle elsewhere. |
We're back - actually never left |
Hmmm - a new beginning |
Season of Miracles |
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Laureen and Beth - being sisters |
View from 25066 |
Nice hallway to the conference centers |
Even the Penguins wear formal attire |
What do you stuff in that stocking? |
Pg. 242 - Wynn Explodes |
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Selfie or not - we were having fun |
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30 Minutes earlier |
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Where the Monster drove onto the sidewalk committing murder |
Beautiful view, marred by tragedy |
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First Responders |
There is always the dawning of a new day! |