Essex is still there - almost

Original Post Office in Essex, CA - officially closed in 2011

 It was just nipping at a hundred and six degrees when I drove into the tiny outpost known as Essex.

“It’s gonna be a hot one,” I could hear the slight breeze whispering, as I got out of my truck and snapped a few photos.

Snapping photos is a thing we photojournalists do. Freeze a moment in time forever, and then go home and write about it. It’s the perfect synergy – words and photos.

I was in Essex for two reasons. One, I hadn’t been there in decades. Two, readers have written to ask when Route 66 and the National Trails Highway would be open all the way to Needles.

The first reason to be in Essex was fulfilled. I was back, and the town appeared completely deserted – I mean completely.

Of course, there is the well-maintained Caltrans maintenance yard, and a small United States Post Office made of rock walls. That’s about it, really.

The Caltrans maintenance facility in Essex, CA

According to longtime resident and font of knowledge about Essex's history, John Bentley, the current population of the town is around 6 people.

“Most people have moved on,” Bentley stated. “With Route 66 closed, along with National Trails Highway, there’s no one who comes through here.”

The legend of Essex is that a driver had a flat tire, but there was nothing there. Nothing but a long drive – especially on a dud of a tire – no place to find assistance. But soon, an entrepreneur opened Bell’s Towing. Then, the Wayside Café was built to serve up tasty meals for road-weary travelers making their way across the Mojave Desert. A United States post office opened for the convenience of more and more people moving to this remote stretch of the highway, and the Essex Elementary School was founded in 1937.

Remains of the Essex market and gas station in Essex, CA

The population never amounted to a great deal in numbers, but again, in that strong sense of pioneerism, people lived and thrived here.

Turns out that Jim Craig, Bentley’s great-grandfather, had come into the area from Texas over a hundred years ago. He was a miner, working the mines in the local mountains and desert. He had traveled with his brother to seek their fortunes and then branched out into desert ranching.

One thing Bentley didn’t tell me is the story that Jim Craig may have been making moonshine during Prohibition while living near Sunflower Springs. Not sure if this is a true story, but according to the blogger, Darthjenni, Jim Craig moved to the area with his family of 5 children around 1914. He worked for the Rock Springs Land and Cattle Company. During the federally mandated drought on alcohol in the United States, they decided to be a little creative with liquor manufacturing.

Again, I am not certain if this is true, but it makes a great story.

As Bentley himself said, “People tell a lot of stories about what happened in the early days out here. Some accurate and some not so much.”

But around the 1930’s, Jim Craig did start his own ranch, and brought in the cattle which could graze on little more than small desert plants.

“They used desert cattle that had been here for centuries,” Bentley told me. “They are well used to surviving out here. Crazy, isn’t it?”

Standing there in the hot, now noon-day sun, I had to admit it sounded a bit crazy.

But what is desert ranching? Looking across the millions of acres of brown, arid soil, I didn’t see where anything could be ranched. Perhaps some jack rabbits and lizards, but the market for that sort of cuisine is probably limited.

Turns out, again, this is what a sharp researcher’s mind can learn: the cattle are called Criollo. A cattle breed brought to America by Columbus and then to the southwest by Spanish conquistadors. A cow that can thrive in the desert. 

What will those conquistadors think of next?

And thrive they did, but it turns out these cattle need a lot of space – a lot of space, to roam and nibble on sparse vegetation. And as they did this, desert tortoises suffered greatly, so by the early 2000’s, cattle ranching virtually disappeared from the Mojave Desert. Outdoor groups and the Bureau of Land Management found the grazing to be too dangerous for the endangered tortoise, and a move was made to limit or discourage ranching altogether.

Though – this is just what I have observed traveling remote areas of the Mojave - there are still ranches out in the desert lands – I’ve viewed a lot of cattle, the Criollo, walking here and there looking for something to munch on.

More research is needed on this subject. I’ll have to ask one of the cows what’s up the next time I encounter them. Of course, some of these cattle have pretty big and pointy horns. This is when social distancing takes on a whole new meaning.

But, with the traffic on both Route 66 and National Trails Highway, the town of Essex thrived – just like those Criollos.

Essex is advertising for hotel rooms in Laughlin, Nevada

Tourists on the way west or east stopped by for gas, tires, a repair, or just something to eat, and things were going swimmingly for the townsfolk. And then – yep, Highway 40 was built just about six miles north of Essex. That’s all it took to make a small town even smaller.

On an interesting side note, in 1977, the town of Essex received television for the first time. In fact, when the late-night television host, Johnny Carson, heard the news, he had the entire town driven in for a taping of The Tonight Show.

Ed McMahan exclaimed, “Heeerrrreee’s Johnny and the whole town of Essex!”

Maybe not quite like that, but the whole town was invited and attended the taping of the Tonight Show.

The population began to dwindle with less and less traffic, and by 2005, the population was a mere 89 people, and continues to dwindle.

“There’s no business here,” Bentley stated. “We’ve stuck it out because we love the solitude but pretty much everyone is thinking of leaving eventually.”

One of the few remaining houses in Essex, CA

I asked him about the Caltrans signs stating the road is closed to through traffic just as soon as a traveler exited the Essex Road off-ramp. Actually, the signs are clearly marked that Route 66 and National Trails Highway are closed east and west of Essex. The road to Essex is fine with no issues – except those darn highway signs stretched across the roadway.

“That’s the problem. We’d still have some sort of business, but people see those signs and just get back on the freeway.”

Well, this guy didn’t. In fact, I even drove east on National Trails Highway, around the road closure signs, to see why this path to Needles has been closed for nearly a decade. What could take Caltrans that long to fix a road? Is there another Area 51 out there? What was the government hiding? Were Martians marching around demanding we stop sending rovers to their world? Really – that could be annoying. 

As I’ve mentioned in other articles, I don’t believe in conspiracy theories, but I just love a good conspiracy.

Turns out, that a few miles east of Essex on the National Trails Highway, an entire bridge was destroyed from some pretty nasty flooding years back. Not passable.

I returned to Essex, dejected at not finding out anything but the truth: the roadways are not drivable.

There’s not much to see in Essex today. The buildings are deserted, falling, and dangerous to wander through.

A lot of small deserted homes in Essex, CA

But if you listen to the wind, I believe you could still hear distant, happy voices in this small desert town when it was alive and thriving.

John can be contacted at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

 

 

 

Giganticus Headicus

John R Beyer with Giganticus Headicus

I was having lunch with a friend of mine, Jim, when he asked if I had ever heard of the Giganticus Headicus.

While popping another popper in my mouth, I shook my head. “Not sure about that, and not sure that is truly a thing.”

Jim often asks me if I’ve seen this or that while I travel.

Jim travels a lot, too. And his main thoroughfare is the ‘Mother Road’, or the ‘Will Rogers Highway,’ or the ‘Main Street of America’ – all three are also known as just ‘Route 66.’

He has seen many things during his years traveling Route 66. At last count, I believe Jim told me he has traveled Route 66, all the way from Santa Monica to Chicago, about three thousand times.

That makes Jim an expert on what is and what is not on Route 66.

I’ve never been to Chicago, not even once. And, changing planes at O’Hare International Airport on the northwest side of the city does not count as having visited Chicago.

“So what is a Giganticus Headicus?”

“It is a great piece of art, created by Gregg Arnold,” Jim replied.

“Where’s it located?”

“At Antares Point,” he said. “You’ve heard of that, yes?”

I nodded. “Of course, that’s the bar where Luke Skywalker runs into Hans Solo and Chewie.”

Welcome to Antares Point

Turns out, there is a small village named Antares about twenty miles north-east of Kingman, Arizona. It began, as many villages did, as a railroad siding for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad in 1883. The tracks at this point take a large curve in their design as the rails head south toward Kingman.

In 1910, after the National Old Trails Highway made its way through the area, the village was incorporated into what is now Antares. In 1926, Route 66 blazed along the railroad tracks, and the area became a rest stop for those visitors heading either north or south through this part of Arizona.

But, there is more to this little berg than just a fuel stop. There are over six thousand mining claims in the nearby hills, where copper, gold, lead, and silver were found in abundance. The village of Antares actually took its name from the star Antares, in the constellation ‘Scorpio.’ The word is Greek and means ‘rival of Mars’, due to the reddish tint of the hillsides created by the copper found there.

Though most of the mines are now closed, there are still over two hundred in operation in and around the Hualapai Valley, where Antares is located.

I found that research rather interesting, as I do most of my research – unless it has to do with how to take a dog stain off a living-room carpet.

But, it also turns out that there is a small stop along Route 66 called Antares Point. It is owned by Gregg Arnold and his spouse, Alie Reynolds-Arnold, and is a place that is truly worth a parking break.

A small A-framed building is the center of Antares Point, which offers visitors a chance for a snack, a drink, and a gaze at some awesome pieces of artwork.

Both Gregg and Alie are world-renowned artists, and have their studio, the Antares Art Studio, in Kingman.

Alie is known for her work in many art media forms, such as acrylics, oils, and whatever else great artists use to slap on a canvas to express their innermost creativity.

Gregg, on the other hand, deals mainly in metal works. His metal sculptures appear all over the world, and the more detailed, the better.

Some of his works are on display and for sale at Antares Point.

 “Gregg is unveiling a new metal sculpture there in two weeks.”

“That sounds like an adventure to me,” I told Jim.

And, it was.

As I rounded the bend just south of the village of Antares, my eyes locked onto a huge tiki-god-like sculpture to the left of the A-frame visitor’s center for Antares Point.

Gregg Arnold's tiki-god sculpture

I had to park quite a way down a dirt road from the business since about two hundred people were milling around for the unveiling of Arnold’s latest creation. Actually, I’m not sure if they were milling, to be honest – I'm not even sure what that truly means.

“I was just milling around.”

“Well, I was milling better than you.”

There was a car show with some really sweet rides, and people were walking around gawking in admiration or jealousy. There was a band playing near some outdoor benches and awnings. And a man selling ice cream, singing Italian songs – no, those are the lyrics from a song by the band, Chicago.

Car show and directions along Route 66

Anyway, there was quite a crowd and everyone was having a wonderful time while waiting for the blue tarps to be withdrawn from the newest artwork created by Gregg Arnold.

Giganticus Headicus is huge – really a big-headed cement head which looks like it is buried up to its chin in the ground. Standing at fourteen feet tall, it is impressive.

At that moment, the artist himself walked over to me. “What do you think?”

“It’s big and green,” I replied.

Arnold smiled. “Yes, it is, and the first time I used concrete in any of my artwork. The use of concrete was a new medium for me, but it worked out.”

Giganticus Headicus

Not being much of an art consumer, except for purchasing a couple of paintings depicting dogs playing cards, I asked what inspired him for this project.

“I thought of it while sleeping one night,” he replied. “I woke up and hurriedly jotted down the design. It was like an obsession with me. I’m sure being a writer, you probably get up in the middle of the night with something important on your mind.”

I nodded, but didn’t reply. The only time I get up in the middle of the night is to find the nearest restroom.

“For the entire month it took to complete it, it was all I could think of. I was totally obsessed and was physically and emotionally exhausted once I had completed it.”

Gregg is a very passionate artist. He created the large tiki-head project at the studio in Kingman, and then transported it to the site at his Antares Point location.

“I wanted something to draw a person’s eye, as they drive by on Route 66. This did the trick, and they stopped, and I got to talk with them about the importance of art and also the magnificence of this road.”

“What is going to be unveiled?” I asked.

“You’ll have to wait and see.” He smiled.

Taking my leave from Gregg, I walked into the visitor’s center and was really amazed at the pieces of art that lined the countertops and shelves around the rooms. Small pieces, medium pieces, and some large metal artworks, which were incredible in all their detail. Wandering through the store, I saw art magazine after art magazine with stories concerning this highly creative artisan. 

Of course, there were also books, photographs, signs, and other Route 66 memorabilia for sale, as well as snacks and drinks for the visitors.

Watch your speed near Antares Point

As I exited the store after purchasing something, Gregg was standing on the front porch of the establishment. I asked him how he got his inspiration for such a varied array of artworks.

“My art just comes to me. I don’t know how or why, but it does.”

Being as successful an artist as Gregg is, his imagination must be on overdrive most of the time. 

While waiting for the unveiling, I busied myself chatting with car enthusiasts, Route 66 enthusiasts, art enthusiasts, and enthusiasts of enthusiasm.

“I’m really enthused by being here,” said one lady.

The time for the unveiling was suddenly upon us – time speeds by when everyone is enthused.

The new metal structure, which stands at sixteen feet tall, is located on the north-west section of the property as planned by Gregg, so anyone traveling Route 66 would be able to see it right away. As though anyone driving by wouldn’t first see a giant green head tiki-god in the front yard of Antares Point.

That may slow a driver down a bit.

Gregg stepped up onto a concrete platform in front of the tarped covered stature, microphone in hand, and spoke to the large crowd gathered all around.

What's under the wrappings?

He explained very eloquently why and how he created the artwork.

“This metal statue is to be the guardian of Route 66,” he stated. “I wanted something very special and meaningful for anyone traveling this wonderful roadway. I also desired it to represent the strength of our wonderful nation, and to stand tall with all those who have served her and continue to serve her, no matter their occupations.”

At this moment, the tarps dropped, revealing a truly beautiful metal statue of a female holding a shield, a crown, and carrying an American flag.

The Guardian of Route 66

The crowd’s reaction was overwhelming with clapping, cheers, and other loud noises of approval.

Gregg Arnold with his masterpiece

I looked the whole situation over, the people, the artwork, and the place, and realized that not only was Gregg a very accomplished artist, but his love of this country was palpable.

It was certainly worth the drive to share in this moment along Route 66 at Antares Point.

John can be contacted at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

Time to revisit Route 66

In honor of the 100th anniversary of the opening of Route 66 from Chicago to Santa Monica, we've decided to re-print various blogs concerning this wonderful extension of American ingenuity. It is a road that needs to be traveled to truly understand the term, Americana.

So, let's begin our journey down those 2448 miles of asphalt.

Laureen Beyer is getting ready for a road trip

In his 1939 novel, The Grapes of Wrath, John Steinbeck referred to Route 66 as the ‘Mother Road’ of America. It was the strip of asphalt that those fleeing the devastation of the Dust Bowl took from the Midwest to the Promised Land of California.

So what is it about Route 66 that beckons millions of people to drive along its nearly two thousand five-hundred-mile path from the beginning in Chicago to its end in Santa Monica each year?

It was time to find out, and one of the best places to start was Kingman, Arizona.

“Ready for a road trip?” I asked my lovely wife, Laureen.

“When am I not?”

We soon set out for the short seventy-three-mile drive between Kingman and Seligman, Arizona, to see what we could see.

Kingman is definitely a place to stop and experience. There is so much history to cherish in this small town, just one hundred and five miles southeast of Las Vegas.

It’s named after Lewis Kingman, a railroad engineer for the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad. He was quite the engineer, designing over thirteen hundred miles of the Santa Fe Railroad system during his tenure. 

Actor Andy Devine was raised in Kingman, where he learned his love for the West. He appeared in over four hundred films during his lifetime, not including long stints in television western series which aired for decades.

Charles Lindbergh and Amelia Earhart dedicated Arizona’s first commercial airport on Route 66 in Kingman in 1929.

Clark Gable and Carole Lombard were married there in 1939.

To say the least, Kingman is a historical place.

Laureen Beyer having fun in Kingman, Arizona

Driving along Route 66 is not like driving along an interstate. No, if speed is what someone is after, find another road.

Route 66 is meant to be a drive of knowledge. 

A drive learning about the backbone of America, where people ventured in search of a better life for themselves and their families.

A drive along America’s Mother Road is an opportunity to slow down and enjoy each mile along this iconic highway.

Millions of foreign travelers descend on this roadway each year to learn about the thing known as Americana.

Beatrice, a shop owner outside of Kingman, told us, “It is so exciting to see the tourists from all over the world stopping here. They are amazed at all the things they experience driving Route 66. It thrills me.”

As we drove north-east from Kingman, towns such as Hualapai, Walapai, and Valle Vista were soon in our rear-view mirror.

Roughly twenty-five miles north of Kingman is Antares Point. 

It is one of the showcases for the international artist, Gregg Arnold. This master sculptor has made this tiny bend in Route 66 a place for visitors to stop and enjoy numerous art pieces on display.

The small A-frame building housing the artwork is easy to spot along the road, but if the tourist fails to notice it, there is another object that cannot be missed or forgotten.

Standing in front of the artist’s studio is a fourteen-foot-tall green Tiki head, Arnold created in 2003 out of concrete. It is appropriately entitled: Giganticus Headicus. 

John R Beyer with Giganticus-Headicus

As we meandered about the place, at least twenty other vehicles loaded with tourists stopped, snapping photos of each other with the Tiki Head, before wandering into the studio. 

Giganticus Headicus is a big hit with those driving by Antares Point.

After leaving Antares Point, we soon passed through Peach Springs, Nelson, and Yampai before reaching the town of Seligman.

John R Beyer visiting Seligman, Arizona

Originally a railroad encampment known as Prescott Junction, the town was renamed Seligman, after Jesse Seligman, a railroad financier, in 1886.

It was a thriving locale along Route 66 until Interstate 40 was built on the outskirts of town in 1978. The town seemed to be on the verge of becoming a ghost town when the citizens banded together and demanded that the State of Arizona recognize Route 66 as a historic highway in 1987, and to ensure Seligman was accessible to those driving by on the freeway.

Thus, a few off-ramps were built, allowing travelers to exit the interstate and explore downtown Seligman.

Seligman soon became a major destination for tourists. An eclectic group of shops like the Rusty Bolt, bars like the O.K. Saloon, and restaurants like the Roadkill Café, line Route 66, beckoning the curious to stop and enjoy.

We wandered the town and soon realized why so many visited this little berg in Northwest Arizona.

It is just plain, good old-fashioned fun.

John can be reached at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

Route 66 at the Smithsonian

Laureen Beyer pointing out where she is in Washington D.C.

A piece of Route 66 history is located 697 miles southeast from where this iconic roadway began back in 1926 in downtown Chicago.

“But I thought the Mother Road went from Chicago to Santa Monica?” little Jimmy may ask.

Well, that is correct but when my lovely wife, Laureen, and I returned to Washington D.C. recently, we were thrilled to see a beautiful exhibit about Route 66 at the National Museum of American History.

Towns along Route 66 from Chicago to Santa Monica

“Are you thrilled?” Laureen asked.

“Thrilled to be thrilled.”

It is not a large exhibit, but all the information a person visiting this Smithsonian Museum is there to garner a taste of how important Route 66 was for early travelers across the United States.

Stretching an impressive 2,448 miles through Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and finally arriving in California.

It took six years to build this road, from 1926 until 1932, but it was not fully paved until 12 years later in 1938.

Cyrus Avery, a businessman in Tulsa, Oklahoma stated, “I challenge anyone to show a road of equal length that traverses more scenery, more agricultural wealth, and more mineral wealth than does U.S. 66.”

Avery founded the U.S. 66 Highway Association and first called Route 66 the ‘Main Street of America.’

I have traveled quite a bit along Route 66 getting research for this or that story and I never tire of driving the long stretches of usually empty roadway. Passing through towns that are still here like Newberry Springs, Ludlow, Seligman, Winslow, and towns that are simply ghosts of what they once were, Bagdad, Siberia, Two Guns, and many more that dot the long stretches of roadway.

Each time I stop, it’s hard not to imagine hearing the voices, the laughter, the tears, that once could be heard in these once vibrant spots.

What were the hopes of dreams of these folks along Route 66

It’s not a quick trip taking the byways, but that is the reason - to enjoy and understand the history of this wonderful highway that stretches for so many miles.

The Smithsonian’s were something that was top on our list as we landed at the Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport.

Actually, making sure our bags arrived on the same plane as we did, getting to our hotel and having an adult libation were my top priorities. 

But during our trip to the city planned by George Washington, we hoofed it to some of the most famous museums in the world.

The Smithsonian’s.

I had only traveled to our nation’s capital once before and knew there was so much to see that numerous trips may not cover all it had to offer. 

I learned there was a lot this large berg had to show a visitor - and one previous trip was not enough.

We like getting up early, having a sip of coffee and hitting places before the crowds show up - and in Washington D.C. the crowds were always present, especially during the 4th of July week.

And as usual, we headed out before most people had tumbled from their beds to a place which was on both of our radars.

The Route 66 experience at the National Museum of American History.

The exhibit is inundated with memorabilia commemorating this masterpiece of a highway.

Some travelers provisions on display

Four outstanding women who braved early Route 66

There are some of the original vehicles on display which drove across Route 66. Along with those displays there are sculptures of men and women standing or sitting in those very same vehicles - it was rather surreal since the area the exhibit is located is rather dark and lights shine on each exhibit.

Often, Route 66 was not for the weak of heart

“Rather ghostly,” Laureen said.

“Yes, it's as though the mannequins may turn and talk to us,” I replied.

“Wonder what they would say?”

I shrugged. “Hey, I get tired standing on my feet twenty-four-seven. But then again, perhaps all these inanimate objects come alive once the museum closes at night and have a monster gala.”

Laureen ignored me, she’s good at that.

An open aired two seat car from 1903 is on display showing two men and a dog trying to pull it out of a sandy patch using block and tackle.

Another shows a family sedan loaded down with everything they would need while crossing the nation along Route 66. Spare tires, spare water, sleeping bags, lanterns, tents, and the like.

Everything a family may need during the Route 66 journey

Stories of folks who made the adventure are there for visitors to read. Stories about the Hamons, the Shorts, the Haggards, and four young women who ventured out on their own in 1947 from New York to Los Angeles, utilizing Route 66 once they reached Chicago.

In fact, in 1946, an up-and-coming musician, Bobby Troup, drove the route from Pennsylvania to Los Angeles. During the trip his wife suggested he write a song about it - the rest is history. Nat King Cole took the song and made it a gigantic hit, ‘Get Your Kicks on Route 66’.

There is a lot to see and experience at the Route 66 exhibit, but there is a lot more to see while taking the time and wandering at this and the other Smithsonian Museums in Washington D.C.

Actually, visiting our nation’s capital should be on any traveler's ultimate destination list.

Though I would suggest Fall or Spring, summer is brutal with the humidity hitting at least 1,000 percent.

For further information: https://www.si.edu/object/route-66-pavement-1932%3Anmah_1276320

A Bit of Nostalgia at Peggy's Sue's

An awesome place to stop and visit

As most travelers realize, there are three essential items needed for an adventure: a mode of transportation, fuel for that mode of transportation, and fuel for the travelers themselves.

Transportation comes in many forms but all need fuel - not many folks feel confident if an airline pilot states rather joyfully over the intercom, “Welcome folks to We May Make It Airlines. On today's flight, we may have just enough fuel to make our final destination. My co-pilot already has his rosary beads out, just in case.”

Nope, not booking that airline.

According to the American Automobile Association, most traveling is conducted by driving the highways and byways in personal vehicles - of course, a pair of open eyes when driving anywhere in Southern California will prove that also.

“Doesn’t anyone work?” one driver may ask while sipping on his Mango Dragonfruit Refresher - of course with added coconut milk. “It’s two in the afternoon and we’re at a standstill in the Cajon Pass.”

All conveyances that transport folks from here and there need fuel, no matter which type of energy-producing fuel that may be.

Pull up to a gas station and within minutes the traveling group is back on the road, or pull your EV into one of those plug-in thingies and then take a long lunch and a nap and then you are back on the road again, eventually.

But the inner fuel for the travelers is one of the best parts of getting from point A to point B. There are so many choices along the roadways of America. Small diners, chain restaurants, fast food joints, curbside entrepreneurs, and places that have not seen an ‘A’ in their window since opening day.

There are also those favorite spots that we find ourselves drawn to time and again while traveling familiar territory, and one of those for me and my beautiful wife, Laureen, is Peggy Sue’s along Interstate 15 in the small town of Yermo.

A lot of 'nice' rides show up at Peggy Sue's

Not only is the eclectic eatery a great place to fill up the old stomach, but it is a fun destination to stretch one’s bones while wandering the interior and exterior of the establishment.

My personal history with the iconic restaurant goes back decades. In another life, I taught at the small but academically strong Silver Valley High School. A great place where staff really worked with their students to ensure a good quality education.

One of the programs I was involved with, Peer Counseling, had students interacting with fellow students to resolve various negative issues that may be causing personal angst. And nobody likes angst. It dealt with students talking with their peers on a one-on-one basis which is often more beneficial than an adult trying to make sense out of a teenager's life.

“My parents don’t understand me,” one teenager may say to a Peer Counselor.

“That’s because parents are dolts who often wear mismatched socks,” may have been the reply from my well-trained Peer Counselor. I always thought humor was a great way to get to the root of any issue.

I also used to say, ‘If you have issues, we have tissues.’ The point was, that my students believed in their heart of hearts that they could be the ears and voice for teenagers to listen to without giving advice, unlike adults who always had concrete solid answers for every problem that a fourteen-year-old was dealing with.

Really?

We raised four daughters - I still don’t know half of what the girls said for the entirety of their teenage years. I just nodded or told them to ask Mom.

Besides being a legitimate school class, we also operated a school club so we could hold various fund-raisers in which we could put on events schoolwide for the students at Silver Valley High School. And, that is where I came into contact with Peggy Sue Gabler, the owner, who along with her husband Champ, purchased the establishment in 1987.

Our Peer Counseling Club held its first car wash at the famed restaurant and Peggy Sue herself assisted, so naturally, it was a great success. She was charming and affable and even gave my students a good tip for washing her car in addition to free pizza and soft drinks.

It’s a good memory, and so Peggy Sue’s has been a favorite stopping place whenever we travel north or south along Interstate 15.

But, even without those personal recollections on my part, the joint is a cacophony of sights and sounds - and just a downright fun place to wander, even if putting on the feedbag isn’t the traveler's number one priority.

However, who could turn down anything on a menu that features such sandwiches as the Patti Page Patty Melt, the Mickey Mouse Club Sandwich, the Fabian French Dip, or the Big Bopper BLT?

If it sounds as though the customer may have stepped into a time warp when entering the double doors of Peggy Sue’s, they would be correct.

In fact, the front doors are ensconced below a huge facade of a 1950s jukebox. Don’t ever say Rock and Roll is dead in Yermo!

When Champ and Peggy Sue bought the restaurant, it was small and in need of a major facelift. They did not hesitate to sink hard-earned money from the time Champ spent working at Knott’s Berry Farm and the Hollywood acting career of Peggy Sue. In fact, she was so well-known in those Hollywood circles that as a person wandered through the restaurant, they would spy dozens upon dozens of movie posters and personal photographs showing Peggy Sue sidling up to some of the most notable actors from the silver screen.

On our last stop, there was a photo of Whoopi Goldberg telling the owners what a wonderful place they had going on the wall by our booth.

As posted on their website, Peggy Sue wrote; ‘We wanted good homemade food and great 50s music.’

And that they accomplished. But as the business grew, and more and more customers came in from the bustling Interstate just to the north, the restaurant had to expand to make room for the deluge of customers they were having every day.

The place reminds me of the Winchester House, without the hauntings, just keep adding on until there’s no more room to add onto.

The couple also realized they had a hit on their hands and decided year after year to not only expand in size but to make stopping at the restaurant not only a food fanfare but a true destination all by itself.

‘We opened a 50s style Five & Dime store with curios and memorabilia, soda fountain, ice cream parlor, and a pizza parlor,’ as stated on the website. "We even created our own Dinosaur park.’

Giant gorillas and dinosaurs await the visitor

As Laureen and I toured the exterior, after refueling our innards for the journey northward, we marveled at what had been created at Peggy Sue’s.

There are tall broad trees that give ample shade during the hot summer months with cooling blue water ponds surrounded by large swaths of green grass giving the entire experience a feeling of entering an oasis within the Mojave Desert.

As oasis for pirates, dinosaurs, and visitors

There is a bandstand that is used regularly for the enjoyment of locals and visitors alike - with bands that no one has heard of and those that may be just shy of getting that record label contract to shoot them into the stratosphere.

Get ready to Rock and Roll

As we wandered the park-like grounds, families were marveling at the life-sized metal sculptures of dinosaurs that show the differences between carnivores and herbivores. A paleontologist's dream for their own backyard.

Of course, my favorite is the giant sculpture of King Kong looking down upon us rather hauntingly - as any oversized ultra-intelligent simian would.

But before leaving this rather fanciful world that Champ and Peggy Sue created, a must-see is the gift shop where every piece of the 50s and 60s reside. There are full-sized posters of Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley, and not far off, there are a couple of hardened plastic sculptures of the Blues Brothers.

The Blues Brothers as Peggy Sue's, Yermo, California

The King, Elvis, not Kong, is ever present - in fact, as a person enters the establishment Elvis is offering to tell the future of anyone brave enough to drop a coin into the slot of the fortune-telling machine.

The King awaits

I dropped one in. 

“Viva Las Vegas,” the mechanical Elvis sang to me while nodding his Elvis face with a turban attached to the dark and perfect hair. “I see in your future not a thing worthwhile. Now the pretty lady beside you, yowie!”

It was time to leave. 

Peggy Sue’s is a must-stop for a quick bite or a lingering to take it all in. No traveler will be disappointed. 

For further information; https://www.peggysuesdiner.com/

John can be contacted at; beyersbyways@gmail.com

 

The Rebirth of the Ghost Town of Amboy

Welcome to Amboy, CA

According to Ken Large, Operations and Logistics Manager for Roy’s Motel and Cafe in Amboy, there are ongoing plans to rejuvenate this once prospering town into something for the future.

“When Albert passed away in 2023,” Ken said, “I wondered what would become of his dream of turning this once vibrant town into a go-to destination for those traveling along Route 66.”

Albert Okura, the founder of the popular restaurant chain Juan Pollo in Southern California, had purchased the nearly forgotten town of Amboy in 2005. Albert loved history, especially the history of Southern California and more importantly Route 66. When he purchased the town of Amboy, his wish was to do all he could to turn it back into the iconic spot where travelers from across the United States would stop along America’s Highway during its heyday.

The original sign is lit up nightly in Amboy, CA

He had big plans, but that was nothing unusual for this man who created a chain of cookeries which would later label him the Chicken Man for the delicious food served in his nearly 30 various locations.

Albert knew he could recreate the thrill of travelers along Route 66 that was once felt after the route was completed in 1926. Sadly, Albert passed away on January 27, 2023 at the young age of 72 in Ontario, California. 

But, his dream did not die. “His family have been wonderful in keeping Albert’s dreams alive here in Amboy,” Ken said. “Take a walk around and see for yourself all the construction being conducted to complete this place by the summer of 2026.”

That summer would be the 100th anniversary of the completion of Route 66, and there are huge plans being developed along that long river of asphalt stretching from Chicago all the way to Santa Monica.”

Rumor has it that a family of Sasquatches may attend the festivities somewhere along the nearly 2,500 mile highway - but of course, that is on a need-to-know-basis.

And, I need to know!

Before I started walking the property, Ken did inform me that finishing the entire project may be a bit of a stretch but “...knowing Albert’s family as I do, I think we may indeed have everything up and running for the huge crowds that will be coming through. They are an awesome group of folks and I am sure keeping Albert’s legacy alive will be in the forefront of their thoughts.”

I’ve been through Amboy more times than I can count - either heading east or heading west. Did I stop each time? No, but every time I passed by those stark white empty cabins, the large paned windowed reception area of the motel, and the gas station with its huge sign out front welcoming visitors, I felt a slight tug at my heart.

Road monument with unfished cabins in the rear at Amboy, CA

Amboy, once a bustling and hustling railroad stop for miners, travelers, shippers, receivers, and those that just wanted an adventure which then, as many such towns did, turned into a ghost town and was now being brought back to life, makes me smile.

The last time I visited and spoke with Ken, a large tour bus had just pulled up and about a million tourists exited. It was a very large custom made bus.

“We sometimes get up to three thousand people visiting a day,” he said. I just saw a million, so I suppose his math could be accurate, rounded off for the year.

As I was taking a snap of some of the construction going on, a tourist walked to me and in a very German accent and said he recognized me.

“Yes, I am John R. Beyer, the world-renowned travel writer,” I humbly responded.

“Nein,” he retorted. “You look like the restroom attendant. Paper is needed in stall three.”

I nodded and then mumbled, “You probably meant number two.”

Ken advised me that 50% of the visitors are European, 35% from the United States, 10% from South and Central America and the remainder from Asia or perhaps the territory of Nauru.

As I wandered here and there, teams of construction personnel were wiring this, harnessing that, and pretty much doing what construction personnel did. They were busy rebuilding Amboy into what Albert Okura had imagined.

New construction in the works in Amboy, CA

A town full of life which invited the tourist to stop for a spell for a rest, and perhaps a meal and then back onto the historic byway or Route 66.

In fact, in keeping to Albert’s plans, Ken explained that they hoped to have rooms ready to rent, a fully functioning restaurant, and other amenities which made staying in Amboy for more than a couple of hours a reality.

I asked about the family and their thoughts about Albert’s visions.

“I must say that Kyle, one of Albert’s children, comes here quite often and spends long weekends checking out how much work is getting done. Often, Mrs. Okura and other family members accompany him and they love it out here. They are a great and loving family.”

Years ago, my lovely wife Laureen, along with one of our daughters, Kelly, drove through Amboy and were delighted to see the site was being used as a Fly- In. Planes of all makes and models were actually landing along Route 66 and taxing to the small airport located there.

Music, food, and other entertainment were in abundance for all to share in.

Other events which are being coordinated by Ken, the other staff members, and the family are motorcycle rendezvous, classic car shows, airplane fly-ins, music festivals, space alien conventions, and the list goes on and on.

And gas is available at the original pumps

“We also are also a venue for those who want to rent the place out for movie shoots, television ads, music videos, weddings, and the like,” Ken stated.

Recently a Polish singer by the name of Daria Zawailaow utilized the town for a music video. It is spunky, riveting, and I have no idea what she is singing about - my Polish is rather limited except for some old and now inappropriate jokes.

The below link will show just one of the musical talents who visited Amboy and wanted to share with their audiences what an iconic place this little town is and why it is important to visit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=CoMFkWwevjA

For more information: https://visitamboy.com/ 

John can be contacted at; beyersbyways@gmail.com

 

Oro Grande, a great little town

Welcome to Oro Grande

A friend of ours, Kathleen, contacted me and said I needed to meet the mayor of Oro Grande. I didn’t even know there was a mayor.

“They have a mayor?”

 “Well, he’s the honorary mayor. Joe Manners is nothing but a fount of knowledge where it concerns Oro Grande. You’ll find him very interesting; and he’s the caretaker of the cemetery.”

The proverbial cat was out of the bag, I found cemeteries interesting. But don’t all taphophiles? Still can’t get used to that term – sounds really creepy.

“So, I should meet this Joe Manners?”

“Yes, you should,” Kathleen replied.

And met him I did, on a lovely but very warm morning at his office away from home, the Cross Eyed Cow Pizza restaurant along the National Trails Highway, in Oro Grande. 

Why the name cross eyed cow? Wondering if there are such things or was it just a made-up term for the pizza joint. The name was kind of catchy, though. Something a person would likely not forget. But, was there such a thing as cross eyed cows?

I googled this cross eyed cow thing, and sure enough, there are lot of cross eyed cows roaming the countryside of the United States. Of course, I mean no disrespect for these cows, but I was just curious.

Curiosity satisfied.

Joe Manners, like his last name indicated, was very cordial and polite, and most importantly, on time. And as Kathleen had indicated, a virtual cornucopia of knowledge when it came to Oro Grande.

Honoree Mayor Joe Manners

“Joe, before we start going through all the history stuff, why do they refer you to as the mayor?” 

“Because I’m very involved with the community, and one day years ago somebody called me the mayor. It’s stuck ever since.”

Good enough for me.  

Mayor Joe had brought about a million file folders with photographs showing Oro Grande from its earliest days and we went through them one at a time. He sipped a cup of coffee and told me stories about Oro Grande, and the seventy-four years he has lived there. 

The file folders were full of black and white photographs, color prints, newspaper articles, and an assortment of other items which were treasures on their own. Each had its own story to tell, describing a bit of the history of this little town just north west of Victorville.

One photo from the fifties showed a bunch of smiling young school children, and he named each and every child. Another photograph was of the opening day in April of 1961 of the Griffith Henshaw Memorial Park, and Mayor Joe could recall the name of everyone in the picture. Yet another photograph depicted some cave-men riding dinosaurs, and he could name everyone in the shot, including the dinosaurs. Okay, I made that up. He had forgotten the dinosaur names.

I marveled at this man’s memory. I was just hoping I could remember where I had parked my car before the meeting. 

For nearly an hour I was taken on a journey back in time to when Oro Grande was first developed as a mining community through to the present day. It is a lot to take in. I mean a lot of history here detailing the strong men and women who came to the Victor Valley and settled here in the earliest days.

 “Why isn’t there a museum here?”

“Not much interest and we’d need a building and a lot of donations,” Mayor Joe responded.

It seemed every town in the High Desert had a museum, large or small. Shouldn’t Oro Grande have one, depicting its special history? 

“You know, we were the first settlement in the High Desert,” Mayor Joe said.

“So, you are like the original O.G.? Get it, Oro Grande, O.G.”

Mayor Joe ignored me. Wisdom along with a good memory.

Another photograph really got my attention. The photograph showed two train robbers on horseback who had held up a train coming into Oro Grande on April 20, 1898. In the ensuing robbery, two men were killed, the train engineer, Clifford, and one of the robbers, Jones.

“What’s really interesting is the young woman standing in the white dress,” Mayor Joe said.

“Why?”

“That’s the lady in white. She haunts the town.”

Interest piqued. “Really?”

“We have quite a few, shall we say strange sightings in town,” Mayor Joe informed me. “Especially at the cemetery.” 

The cemetery!

“We even had ghost hunters out there. You can see their videos on YouTube.”

Fifteen minutes later I was following Mayor Joe in my vehicle, to the Oro Grande cemetery. I found it parked right where I had left it earlier in the morning. My memory wasn’t as bad as I’d feared.

Not only is Joe Manners the honorary mayor of the town, but he has also, by his own choice, taken on the responsibility to be the caretaker of the town’s boot hill.

Most cemeteries, not that I’m an expert, are quiet and reverent places. This one was no different. Very neat and clean.

One of the decorated graves at the cemetery

“San Bernardino County helps out a bit, and just a couple of days ago, Captain Bryan Schultz, brought his county work crew up here and cleared all the weeds away. There were a lot of them, but they did a great job. Helped me out a lot.”

Mayor Joe pointed to a tall flag pole in the cemetery. “Osborne Pipe and Supply installed the flag pole and base. They help the town a lot, too.”

Oro Grande cemetery

The pole, with the stars and stripes waving in the slight breeze over where not a weed could be seen, nor any ghosts dancing amid the wooden crosses or tombstones either.

“Mayor Joe, the ghosts or orbs?”

He smiled and led me on a tour through the graveyard – telling me the history of nearly every person laid to rest here. It was touching, as was the pride of loving attention Mayor Joe showed to every site which was plainly evident.

“I give tours you know. If anyone wants to have a history lesson in the cemetery, all they have to do is contact me. Usually the folks at the Cross Eyed Cow know where to find me.”

“The town is a great place to visit,” Mayor Joe stated.

The Iron Hog restaurant and saloon

I would heartily agree.