Island Hopping

The Turks and Caicos Islands are Nature's way of saying – come on down for a warm swim in crystal blue waters along pure white sand. An invitation like that is not one to turn down and most people don’t.

Ah - a warm beautiful beach - seems enticing!

Who would?

Besides the beaches, there are other places just a short distance from Provo (that’s what the locals call Providenciales) that are worth a visit. Something totally different than what most tourists would imagine. And that would be the islands of North and Middle Caicos.

First stop - North Caicos.

Welcome to the jungle, baby!

One of numerous ponds surrounded by lush jungle on North Caicos

This island, which is about the same size as Provo, is a must for those who want to venture off the regular traveled path and see what a nearly deserted island is all about. Yes, there are plenty of long stretches of bright soft sand to tread upon barefoot while sticking ones toes into the aqua colored water but there is also the intoxicating draw of the green and lush jungle.

North Caicos can only be reached by boat or small plane. And there are not a lot of amenities for the person who likes to travel in comfort and style. There are a few hotels but nothing like the luxury resorts located in Provo – the jumping off point for travel to the other islands.

J and L were excited as they arrived at the TCI ferry service marina departure point in Provo near Big Blue and across from Mangrove Cay at six a.m. for the thirty minute boat ride to North Caicos.



Step in an buy a ticket for island hopping

Now Sit back and enjoy the trip

When visiting North Caicos one should rent a four wheel drive Jeep. There are plenty of rental vehicles available but the chance to go off road onto the sandy beaches or the thick jungle is too much of a temptation. The explorer needs a machine which will take him or her where their adventurous heart desires.

That’s what J and L chose on their last visit to the British West Indies. A Jeep with the torque and ability to go where they wanted without complaint.

A Jeep is the only way to go!

A different day was planned while visiting this small piece of paradise in the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean. Though it is thought the Turks and Caicos are in the Caribbean they are not, exactly. The forty islands and cays are actually located in the Atlantic Ocean, 550 miles southeast of Miami. But with the long history of early explorers and legendary pirates the Caribbean seems to fit the geographical term for this locale. It isn’t but does a precise location always matter?

For pirate treasure, yes – but for the rest, not so much.



Today - not so much

After getting our jeep – rather hinky at first when a gentleman named Roger strolled up to us as we disembarked and said our Jeep was waiting. J had never spoken to Roger but instead had made an inquiry with a woman named Maria the night before about renting the Jeep for the day. How did Roger know we were the ones he was looking for? Perhaps, as J likes to believe he has that certain look of a well-seasoned traveler and EXPLORER is etched across his ‘manly’ forehead.

Turns out Roger does this regularly with people coming over from Provo. He smiled, we smiled and within a few minutes we were off bumping down the road toward unknown adventure – of course we had a map given to us by Roger.

By the way – Roger didn’t know anyone by the name of Maria from Provo. Hmm. But he was the only man with jeeps -- so the deal was struck.

North Caicos has a population of around 1,400 compared to Provo which boasts nearly 24,000 residents - not counting the extra thousands of tourists who visit weekly.

But who is counting? It's the emptiness of the place which demanded the adventure begin. 

Not far from the docks is an abandoned resort - stopped in the middle of the real estate disaster in 2009. What was started was not finished and only the ocean breezes and buzzing insects occupy what would have been a first class destination. Very sad.

Very sad indeed for the developer

After leaving the would-be resort, we were off for breakfast at My Dees Restaurant on the Kings Road near the town of Whitby and marveled at the detail of preparation for our fare. Delicious and filling and a good start for a day of traveling.

Driving through the lush landscape emphasized the difference between North Caicos and Provo. Most times being able to see a yard or two off the roadway was impossible due to the growth of the vegetation. Stopping here or there to snap some photos showed us the countryside was alive with sounds of insects and the myriad of bird species was nearly uncountable as they winged here and there in the air near us.

It was the bats during the early morning that was really entertaining especially as we exited the Jeep for photo-ops and they seemed to be as curious about us as we were about them.

The Wade's Green Plantation was a must see since it was a Loyalist’s home after leaving the newly formed United States in the late 18^th century. Long roads led the way through thick and thicker undergrowth – the place was alive with sound and the humidity was only making it more exciting.



Moved from the Colonies to TCI during the Revolution

Thick jungle background instead of barren rocky like Provo

After leaving the historic site of Wade Green Plantation a side trip was taken to Flamingo Pond – it is boasted in the guidebooks that this pond has the largest collection of flamingoes of any of the islands.

This is what Flamingo Pond is supposed to look like - but not when J and L visited

Thirty minutes later combing the pond and skies J and L ended up with a large goose egg – not one flamingo was seen. So much for guidebooks but the mosquitos were biting – back to the idea of complaints and not about the Jeep. Dozens of bites later – some probably sand fleas left J and L feeling like pin cushions.

Forgot to bring the DEET! Silly travelers.

After spending the better part of the morning exploring we found ourselves crossing the causeway into Middle Caicos (again about the same size of North Caicos with a population of nearly 280) and then to Bombara Beach.  (As L points out -- the one the rum is named after -- ah, perhaps that's the reason the rum's always gone.) A nearly deserted three mile long pearl white sandy beach begging to be laid upon. Only four other people were there in the hours we spent soaking up the late morning sunshine and enjoying a dip in the warm and shallow waters.



Forested jungle to water's edge



An island 1/4 mile away - water is only thigh deep

Sandy, wet and rested we headed back toward North Caicos.

Nourishment was needed after the activity of the day and so it was taken at the Mudjin Bar and Grill located at the Blue Horizon Resort. Another wonderful meal and views of the Mudjin Harbour just added to the delight of a late lunch.

Great food and terrific view from the Mudjin Bar and Grill

After a quick detour to view the Indian Cave dating back to pre-Columbus times which was awe-inspiring we were back on the road to the ferry on North Caicos.



Indian Cave - near Mudjin Bar and Grill

We made it with barely any time left before missing the last boat off the island for the return trip to Provo wondering where the time had gone.

So, on this last visit to the British West Indies J and L explored the wonders of two other islands in the world of Turks and Caicos.

It is always well worth it to do some island hopping when the chance offers itself – the sights and solitude was well worth it.



Lots of exploring to do while Island Hopping in TCI

Under the Sea

What lies beneath those beautiful blue Caribbean waters, just offshore from the warm white sand beaches?  Much, as it turns out, for those willing to venture beyond the sunbathers and the tropical drinks, to venture under the sea.

Cruising through the Caribbean Islands is an adventure every soul should have at least once in their lifetime. Breathing in deeply the clean ocean kissed breezes will restore your spirit, if only for a brief respite from this weary world. But there is an appeal much deeper for those who depart ship and shore. Much deeper. Well, at least a dozen feet or so. So put on your fins, grab your snorkel and let's go!

We started our morning like any back home: grab a cup of hot, black coffee, the newspaper, and discuss what the day had in store for us. Today's conversation took place not in our living room as we readied ourselves for our workdays, but on the veranda of our rented flat in Turks and Caicos. Yes, it would still be a work day as we helped prepare for the commencement exercises of a university with which we are affiliated, but perhaps there was time to take in a morning swim. Perhaps. If we timed it just right.

So quickly grabbing our gear, we headed to a spot off Grace Bay known as Bight and without hesitation, dove right in. Growing up in Hawaii, snorkeling was almost second nature to L, but even spoiled by those beautiful waters, there were pleasant surprises in store this morning. 

Armed with a waterproof camera and with an hour of free time, we swam away from the shore toward a small reef. This is part of a larger system of reefs which protect the bay and the island chain.






We were prepared to see the variety of coral and small fishes that met our gaze as we floated near the surface of the warm waters of the bay, but were struck by the clarity of the water which allowed us to see what we estimated to be more than five fathoms below the surface.

We dove and floated and explored, discovering small schools of tiny silver fish and bigger blue fish. There were purple corals, and purple fish; yellow corals and schools of bright yellow fish.

It was serene and beautiful. Simple, but beautiful and easy to lose track of time.  But the day was warming and we knew we should be jumping out and getting ready for the day. Just five more minutes. Five more minutes...






Then, right below us, casually swimming below us, was a sea turtle. No hurry, no fear, just swimming right up close to nibble a little breakfast and see who had come to visit his neighborhood. We were in awe of the grace and curiosity of this beautiful creature.

And a bit jealous how the turtle seemed to take in the environment so naturally unlike us with fins, mask and snorkel.

Puffer fish, and then whatever this creature looking at me and heading out our direction meant it was time to go home.

The debate of was it an eel or something more sinister, if anything could be more sinister than a lurking eel ready to take a bite of nosy humans.





J concluded that it was merely another fish, while L contended that the creature which gave her such a start was clearly an eel - whatever it was will remain a mystery since it ducked down into the reef not to be seen again.

Swimming in the water with such clarity that sightseeing the undersea world was as easy as stepping onto the warm sands of the Bight. A good start to what would be a very busy day but the thoughts and images of what we saw gave us the determination to carry on with much more mundane duties for the remainder of the day.


Of course, there was always tomorrow and the next - why only work when visiting the Turks and Caicos? There is too much to see and so little time - so we made every hour count.

Sleep? We'd rather explore and sleep later - take advantage of the now! No one knows how many sunsets we are granted. Not a philosophical discussion just reality.

Haunts of Slavery

Chesire Hall Plantation - Welcomes you - really?

One of the worst things humans have ever done to other humans is to own them. The entire concept of actually believing a person can be ‘owned’ goes against everything decent and just in a civilized world.

Of course, those people with such perverted thoughts that to keep someone in chains (in reality or symbolically) is fine and dandy will not like this blog and that’s okay by J and L.

According to the United Nations (2013) there are approximately 30 million slaves today! These slaves can be forced factory workers, child prostitutes, house workers, hard labor workers, and the list goes on and on.

One example is the country of Mauritania – this West African nation is believed to have one out of every four people in slavery currently. The country has tried to rid the concept of slavery by outlawing but it has not seemed to do much but find it harder to locate the slaves.

Top country dealing with slavery today

Research clearly shows that slavery is more prevalent in poorer countries than they are in more economically sound countries such as the United States. If people have the power to increase their worth economically then they do not need to hold the ultimate power of slavery over others.

Sad – criminally sad.

Plantation cannon to protect owners and slaves

Professor Louis Henry Gates researched (we like that term) and wrote that during the terrible slave trade between the 16^th and 19^th centuries nearly 12.7 million people were placed into slavery and transported from Africa to various ports around the world. Over a million people died in the transport itself but of the remaining 10 or so million poor souls the majority found their harsh life in South America and the Islands throughout the Caribbean. According to Professor Gates' studies (and this man knows his stuff) America and later the United States only received approximately 450,000 slaves from Africa.

A small percentage right but one slave is way too many!

While in the Turks and Caicos recently, J and L had a chance to visit Cheshire Hall – a former 5,000 acre cotton plantation on the main island of Providenciales. Though the current size of this historical site is just short of 4 acres, it did give an idea of what life must have been like to be a slave during the time this plantation.

Not comfortable -

A reconstructed slave dwelling - small and hot

John showing how truly small the cabin was

The plantation was the brain child of Wade Stubbs who convinced his brother Thomas to leave England in the late 18th century and come to the Turks and Caicos to start the plantation. In its heyday, the cotton and farmland would encompass 5,000 acres and be home (prison) to hundreds of slaves. It was supposed to have grown the most profitable and appealing cotton in the world - who knows - maybe or maybe not but certainly this plantation built in the Blue Hills area of TCI was well known and respected.

Some remaining cotton plants from hundreds of years ago

Unfortunately or fortunately Thomas was hit by financially hard times around 1810 and sold the plantation and all its holdings to Wade who later found the battle against boll weevils, soil degradation and hurricanes were too much to put up with. So, a few decades of cotton growing ceased.

Turks and Caicos Islands which encompasses 40 islands but only eight are inhabited are low lying (156 feet being the highest hill among them), little rainfall with an average of 26 inches per year, and hot with averages between 80 and 90 degrees year round.

That is not a great area to grow anything and being there a few times J and L have to agree. The beaches are beyond beautiful and the water so clear that seeing dozens of feet down to the coral reefs is not difficult. But beyond the beaches the islands are mostly scraggly shrubs and small trees struggling to grow out of rocky soil. The idea of growing anything of value would take a lot of work, energy, innovation and prayer.

What remains of the Great House

So, Chesire Hall Plantation fell into disuse after the cotton industry in TCI fell apart and the many decades following have been very unkind to the once thriving industry and home of the Stubbs. Today only a few crumbling stone walls depicting where the great house, cotton gins, water well, and other small buildings remain. The government allowed construction to invade the lands of Cheshire and it was only recently that it became a historical site - otherwise there may have been a high rise hotel charging lots of money for views of the British West Indies.

Looking toward the ocean from atop Chesire Hall Plantation

A small toy boat carved out of rock

History - no matter how painful needs to be preserved so the bad history reminds all of us not to repeat it. 

Conch

Always good to advertise

When in Rome do as the Romans do, but since we were not currently in the Italian capital we decided to attend the weekly Island Fish Fry in the Turks and Caicos - more specifically on the island of Providenciales. Provo, as the locals refer to this island, is the best known of the forty cays (pronounced keys) and islands which make up this tropical paradise. The majority of the tiny nation's 30,000 plus residents reside on Provo with the rest of the islands a much smaller number living in residence. The majority of the cays and islands having no one living on them full time. Anyone want a deserted island?

Then this would be the region to visit. Provo is also the hub of the tourist industry boasting well over 200,000 tourists per year who come to soak up the incredible warmth of the sun while basking on pearl white beaches overlooking the most clear and aqua colored waters in the British West Indies.

Miles of this with no one around!

True, the cruise lines arrive on Grand Turk, part of the Turks Islands, but if the visitor doesn't take some time to visit Providenciales or one of the other islands which make up the Caicos side of the chain,  then they have missed out on unbelievable beauty.

Falling in love with a location is quick and true once the vistas are taken in among the palm lined roads and walkways. Spectacular weather, clean environment and extremely friendly people make one want to drop anchor and call these islands home - and home we felt.

Home - yep.

We arrived on Thursday and Thursday evenings from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. is the local fish fry at Bight (Children's) Park on Bight Beach where dozens of local restaurants erect easy-ups and start cooking their favorite dishes for the visitors to taste. And tourists are equal in number or may fall in comparison to the local population who come out every week for this gastronomical experience. It's an evening of awesome sea food, plenty of healthy drinks (both with and without spirits), dancing to live music, and just visiting with new found friends.

Dancing and Singing

 All beneath the Caribbean sky!

Eateries like: 'Smokey's on da Bay', Kay Jo's', 'Bugallo's Conch Crawl', 'Doreen's Place', and 'Froggies' on da Beach' are just a number of restaurants which come out to allow the public the chance to sample their marvelous cuisine.

That's a bbq.

Nice Menu

Booth to booth, J and L walked tasting this and that and soon to repeat the circuit again.

Tuna, marlin, groupers, and bonefish were cooking over coals, gas rings, and bbq's just waiting to be eaten. Rice, beans, coleslaw, chowder, various salads and anything else to make a mouth water was there as well to make the meal complete for the adventurer. Washing all this delicious food was the local favorite Rum Punch or perhaps a cold Turks Head Island Drought. The entire combination of the food fest made the evening that more magical and enjoyable.

One of our favorite dishes was conch (pronounced konk). We had it fried, sauteed, and battered. We couldn't wait to nimble on more but soon we learned what it was and what it looked like when it was alive. The following morning watching a local news station we witnessed the harvesting of conch and  began to have second thoughts about partaking in that delicacy again.

Yummy but not so pretty

Conch is a sea snail - a big hideous slug like animal which happens to make its abode within one of the prettiest shells on earth.

Now, that's beautiful

Biology is funny that way.

So, we visited, we met, we tasted, we explored and all we could come up with was we need to come back for more of everything but the conch.

Well, it was tasty so . . . .

In all of J and L's travels the Turks and Caicos was one of the friendliest and most beautiful locales we have had the fortune to encounter. Not much frantic night life but as one sits viewing the sunset in the West Indies enjoying a glass of their favorite drink the night life is right in front of them. A sky full of stars and the company of a loved one.

That is paradise - truly.

Shiver Me Timbers

Winning the lottery or locating a true pirate treasure is probably as remote a possibility as being struck by lightning. But the idea of capturing the winning numbers or locating a hidden chest of gold and jewels is sometimes too hard to resist.

Which would be more exciting?

That would depend on the person but with the seemingly never ending saga of Captain Jack Sparrow, this writer would venture to say the thrill of digging your hands into a pile of gold doubloons would rank rather high on the excitement scale.

The Code?

 Most people who are able to breathe have heard of such names as Captain William Kidd, Edward Teach (Blackbeard), Sir Henry Morgan, but what about Mary Reid (sometimes Read) and Anne Bonny?

These last two pirates were sailing mates of Calico Jack, both literally and figuratively (Anne was once Calico's mistress). The Englishman John Rackham was known for wearing calico patterned clothing was the origin of his nickname. And it is his personal pirate flag - a skull with crossed swords which has become the internationally accepted symbol of the Pirate Flag.  He was a good pirate, applying that adjective loosely, but not so ambitious when it came to carrying out plans. Calico would much prefer to sit around drinking grog and discussing plans for this raid or that raid rather than actually carrying out the deeds. But Reid and Bonny were totally different. They wanted to sail the Spanish Main and take as many ships as they possibly could with Calico and his crew. These two were truly dangerous and ruthless.

Calico Jack's calling card

 They were a pirate's pirate.

The two ladies, if this term can be used here, started their careers dressed as males since a female pirates did not instill fear at the time. Pirates were macho and in the 18th century to be macho meant to be male. Period.

Of course, that changed as soon as Calico Jack's crew realized two of the fiercest fighters on board were in fact women.

Forget the myth that having a woman on board could doom the ship. These gals were firebrands who only brought riches and plunder to Calico.

Artists rendering of Anne Bonny

 The length of a true piratical career was rather short - generally only a few short years. And that life was harsh and cruel for those brigands roaming the open seas looking to plunder unsuspecting vessels. Not quite the romantised view we often have from Hollywood and Disney.

This was certainly the case for Calico Jack who was hung in1720, and Mary Reid who died in prison in 1721, probably from fever. However, Anne Bonny survived prison stating she was pregnant, and passed away in 1782 at the rip old age of 80. A long life for a pirate.

Before meeting the end of their pirate hunting days, Calico's crew enjoyed quite a bit of wealth stolen from any ship that came near them. They fought hard, lived hard and died hard.

 Now, when a pirate had a lot of gold, precious gems, or other valuables, they could not take them to the bank in Tortuga. So they did what any non-self-respecting person would do - they buried their treasure.

And that's what Calico, Reid and Bonny did with theirs all over the Caribbean where they spent most of their time. Hiding the booty (goods seized by force) was part of the game for a pirate.

Contrary to popular myth, written maps on rolled up parchment would have been extremely rare.  Most pirates could not read or write and in the rough seas anything written parchment could get wet and become useless or go down with the ship with the location of the treasure lost forever.

Nope and Nope

So, how did one jot down directions to their hidden treasure?

Simple really - carve mysterious inscriptions onto stones somewhat near to where the treasure was hidden.

A cryptic carving such as:

1718 JB . . . . . .  .


Easy. So, let's find JB's treasure - nope - not so easy as only JB knows where it is. We know the treasure was buried in 1718 by JB, the rogue, and it was 7 distances away from the map and in the direction of the dots. But only JB knows the true distance to the treasure. Did each dot mean a meter, a kilometer, or an island away.

Actual pirate map in stone

 That's why there is still buried treasure needing to be found. Poor JB may have ended up swinging from the yardarm of a ship before getting back to his chest of riches. Remember dead men tell no tales nor do they reveal the exact location of their treasure.

Pretty ingenious actually and the chance of locating JB's treasure is nearly nil.

Nearly. But that doesn't stop researchers and explorers.

So, as J and L traveled the beautiful Turks and Caicos Islands in the British West Indies during the summer of 2014 they were lucky enough to actually view such pirate markings in stone including some etchings created by the very same Anne Bonny. Anne, along with Mary and Calico and the rest of the crew made these 30 plus islands one of their favorite haunts as it was an easy place to hide from the Royal Navy and also a wonderful locale to spy on treasure ships heading back to Europe. Raids could be planned and executed in a quick fashion.

View from the top, location of the pirate carvings

In fact, Parrot Cay (pronounced key) was originally named Pirate Cay in honor of Anne Bonny but was changed when the small island became a major tourist destination. Some people like parrots more than they like pirates. I suppose pirates aren't as good for business.

Pirate oops - Parrot Cay today

 Over a thousand ships have sunk or forced to sink over the past centuries in this part of the Carribean, leaving behind untolled treasures at the bottom of many cays and bays within the Turks and Caicos. That's not counting the amount of treasure believed buried throughout the region by pirates from the 16th through the early 19th centuries.

And there is always Anne's own buried treasure. Has it been found? Probably not according to a local historian since her pirate career was so short (two years) that she did not have the time to return and collect her stolen goods.

Anne Bonny's treasure map?

Ten days were not enough to locate any treasure except the clear blue waters and white beaches but who knows . . .

There's always next year!

Treasure enough - perhaps - clear water with your loved one!