A Little Respite from Paradise

When visiting a beautiful island country like Fiji sometimes you have to get away from it all and head to a tiny island a few miles from the mainland for a day of relaxing and watching the blue waters curl over the white sands of the beach as well as your toes.

Wait a minute – Fiji itself is a country of over three hundred islands all straight out of a travel magazine’s article on ‘the most awesome’ beaches to visit.

So many to choose from

The tourist city of Nadi (pronounced nandi) is a locale worth spending days in visiting shops, restaurants, blue waters, and everything else any traveler could desire. It’s a city with sights, sounds and views to delight the most particular visitor.

Fiji itself is a wonderful destination and that is why this blog may seem a bit odd.

While sitting on a beach in Nadi enjoying cold libations native to Fiji J and L discussed and commented on this and that about the people and scenery of the islands surrounding them. Nine days on Viti Levu relaxing and doing business had been time well spent but what was needed was a true getaway from the busy hub bub of Nadi. As we sat on the beach looking west over the South Pacific we saw many little dots on the horizon and decided we had to visit one of the destinations off the coast.

Leaving one island to visit another made sense to us.

Bored ? Just find a more deserted beach perhaps

Not ones who love tours we knew there was no other way to visit the off shore islands without renting a boat and navigating waters we were not familiar with. This would not work since we had an early flight the next morning to glide back to LAX.

After researching and exploring (that’s what we do) we chose South Sea Cruises as our choice for the day.

The place we would visit was the South Sea Island thirty minutes west of Nadi. The entire island was only three or four acres in size and maybe ten feet above sea level and the surrounding blue waters rippling over spectacular coral beds made it seem much larger. Crystal clear water to snorkel in, catamaran sailing, a submersible to discover the mysteries of the undersea world, and a large pool were only some of the amenities being offered on this small South Sea island.

South Sea Island - tiny, tranquil and tantalizing

If all the fun in the sun activities were not enough a full bbq with fish, steak, ribs, starches and unique salads were offered at lunch with a great entertainment provided by a local dancers. Fiji beer, wine and soft drinks were part of the deal rounding off the day as pleasant as any visitor could ask for.

The South Sea Island is part of the Mamanuca Island group of Fiji west of Nadi and south of the Yasawa Islands – in other words there are a whole lot of islands in the South Pacific. South Sea Island was just one of twenty that made up the Mamanuca’s.  Of course thirteen of these islands are totally under water at high tide which made the idea of spending any long term time not very advisable.

With a back pack filled with cameras, beach towels and sun screen we jumped aboard a very handsome three decker boat of about seventy feet in length and full of excited tourists. The boat was packed.

How were all these tourists going to fit on such a small island as the South Sea? Had we made a mistake on this cruise?

A moment or two later we realized that this boat, comfortable as it was with snacks, drinks and an indoor lounge was nothing more than a very fancy water taxi.

Nice little water taxi to the islands

This yacht would be dropping folks off on various islands through-out the next three hours from day trippers to those spending a week or more on the farther islands off the coast of Fiji. We were destined to the first dropped off on South Sea and then hours later the last of the visitors would be holding up on Mondriki, Mana or Yanuya – it should be noted that Mondiki was the host island for Tom Hanks and a volley ball by the name of Wilson for the film Castaway.

It's always better with a friend

But we were only gliding over the blue waters a short thirty minutes when the Captain slowed the engines to a crawl as we approached a low lying palm treed island of white sand and somewhat rough surf. Quickly two aluminum twenty foot tenders raced out to our large boat and within minutes we were escorted off the larger boat into the smaller and tore off for a day of relaxing on another beach not far from the one we had been relaxing the previous day.

A moment by moment description of our day won’t be necessary since it may be rather boring for the reader to view a day spent laying beneath a palapa sipping on cold drinks and enjoying the slight ocean breezes. The sun filled the sky only occasionally being hidden by a soft fluffy cloud leaving the day toasty warm.

Dips into the waves were cooling and refreshing enough to give the dynamic researchers the energy to climb into a submersible for a forty minute cruise around the island and the colorful reefs.

Not completely submersible but just enough

 But with that said it is always a bitter sweet moment when that elusive thing called time slips away and reality steps in.

Sunset was not far away and it was time to climb aboard the tender and power back to the luxurious water taxi for the return trip to Suva.

Not much more to write – the photographs are proof enough of how J and L spent their last day in Fiji

Well, we hope it’s not our last day on the enchanting green islands of Fiji and the wonderfully warm people who call it home.

About that Sunset!

Remember the Date Line

A lot of islands out there Captain Cook - we mean a lot!

An eleven hour flight from LAX to Fiji seemed just fine except for the fact that we left at eleven-thirty at night and were crossing the date line a few hours after skipping over Hawaii at nearly thirty-three thousand feet. Once landing in Nadi, the tourist mecca where the International Airport is located,  there was a so-called short bus ride to the Suva, the capital city of the three hundred islands of Fiji which took nearly five and a half hours. We were told it was a 'two and half or maybe three hour drive’ – we were misinformed as the bus stopped at every opportunity to pick up or drop off passengers.

A 5 hour bus drive after 11 in the air, no big deal!

Tired was not even close to how we felt as we dragged out our suitcases from the underbelly of the bus and staggered to the only hotel with room to spare in Suva. It wasn’t a manger but darn close with no hot water, no television, and air conditioning which worked when it wanted to – turned it was on strike.

The fan worked a bit but nothing else

Luckily, June is winter in the southern hemisphere so we only sweated a bit – John quite a bit and Laureen only glowed with the humidity.

But we were in the South Pacific – tales of Bligh, Cook, and countless other wanderers from India, Africa, and Europe lighting up our imaginations. This is where the ancients (and not so ancient) had ventured into the Pacific Ocean with only the stars and their wits to guide them to whatever laid in front in the path for a better future.

Adventurers is a meek term to utter when describing how the peoples who knew nothing about the written language were able to shove a wooden canoe manned by sixty paddlers and strike out into the blue waters hoping that they would eventually land somewhere they could call home. 

Replica of just one of the various styles of outriggers used by the early Fijians

Brave or stupid but the fact these land seekers also piled into those canoes family members, pigs, dogs, and lots of living agriculture leaves nothing but admiration for these hearty souls. They made it from the tip of India or Asia (depends on who you read) and traveled from archipelago to archipelago over hundreds of years to eventually reside permanently in the South Pacific (wasn’t there a famous musical with that title?).  

That's the place - the South Pacific!

Of course, the islanders often landed and left residents on other islands like a tidal wave and each culture became its own except for the very inner workings. All these folks held tightly to their religious values which if looked at in nearly every island culture works its way right back to each other – too many similarities to not be similar. An amakua (family protective god) may be a turtle in Fiji and perhaps a shark may work in Hawaii and maybe a Miller Lite works in California but the point is all these people had something in their roots which recognized each other.

They warred with each other over the eons but don't also modern families?

This is why there are jobs for anthropologists – theories and more theories combined with research leaves more questions than answers. Especially where research is very difficult when none of these fine people being studied used a written language and history was passed down through the generations orally with the occasional use of the kava root – well, history can change a bit when the inner mouths are tingling and the mind goes from seeing clear to seeing flying dolphins.

Per the dictionary: The roots of the kava plant are used to produce a drink with sedative and anesthetic properties. kava is consumed throughout the Pacific Ocean cultures of Polynesia, including Hawaii, Vanuatu, Melanesia and some parts of Micronesia. (See canoe plants.) Kava is sedating and is primarily consumed to relax without disrupting mental clarity (yeah, right - our addition to the definition).

Let's all belly-up to the Kava bar

It should be noted that at no time did the research team of J and L indulge in a Kava ceremony in a local village – that would taint research.

Dude! Did you see that whale dancing with the mermaid – oooohhhh – one more cup of Kava please.

Back now to the story.

Being in the capital of Fiji and the home of nearly one million people we were ready to hit the streets and do what we do best – walk.

No taxis for the crew – walk and walk until the need to buy new pairs of shoes. Our brains were geared, as always in a new country to get out and explore but brains be damned – our bodies said ‘no.'

One night in a hotel which when taking a cold shower in the morning reminded one of a scene from Shawshank Redemption with the warden laughing in glee while clapping his hands told the intrepid duo to find a new hotel – rest and explore the following days.

J and L decided that a respite at the Grand Pacific Hotel was what was needed and though rather costly (something the Irish in John didn't like) it was money worth spent. The GPH has hosted royalty, celebrities from around the world and makes them and all guests feel at home. It was an extremely enjoyable experience for both J and L and will be the only place they stay on return trips to Fiji.

The Grand Pacific Hotel - Suva - 5 Star and worth every one

Nice lobby to unwind in after a day of exploring

A nice view from our room

Good choice – a wonderfully comfortable bed, plenty of space, unlimited hot water and hotel employees who kept asking if there was anything else needed to make our stay any better. That does make a difference after spending nearly seventeen hours reaching the destination and losing a day.



One rule of travel is to understand time zones and really understand that to enjoy you have to be able to keep the eyes open and the brain alert.

The Victoria Lounge - time to relax

If not – grab a good hotel and relax – there is always tomorrow – there have been for billions of years. 

Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple

சிவ சுப்பிரமணியர் கோயில்

The Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple, located in Nadi, Fiji, is the largest Hindu temple in the entire Southern Hemisphere, and it is a sight to behold. With a population nearing 800 thousand, the 330 islands which make up Fiji have three major ethnicities: Fijian, Indian and Sunni Muslim. Fijians with Indian ancestry constitute approximately 46% of the population, so the need for such a substantial temple near the edge of the second largest town on Viti Levu, the principle island of the tiny nation is understandable. 


The original temple was constructed in 1914-1916, a hundred years ago, along the banks of the Nadi River. Repeated floods necessitated a move. Construction on the new temple began in 1984. The design is an ancient one, stemming from a time preceding the birth of Christ, utilizing elements of Dravidian architecture, including pillars, porches and pyramids and includes a number of elements of sacred Vedic design. The entire place is painted in incredibly bright colors, and some of the wooden carvings of Hindu deities were brought from India by the artists who decorated this temple. The numbered ceiling frescoes tell the story of Lord Shiva's manifestations and reincarnations.


The temple was consecrated July 15, 1994 and will be celebrating its 21st birthday this year, as we were informed by this gentleman, who is clearly knowledgeable on the subject. As a Hindu priest, or pujari, he is charged with performing puja or worship services including blessings, etc. We were able to witness, from a discrete distance, out of respect, a few of these manifestations of worship by devotees. They offer an Aarti plate with bananas, coconut, and flowers. Or burn incense (the air was rich with camphor). It was, although I know this will sound cliche, enlightening.

Visitors to the temple are made to feel very welcome, but just as visiting any place of worship, you are asked to abide by a few rules. Women are asked to dress modestly, covering shoulders and wearing a long skirt. No pants, shorts or tank tops. This is not a tourist resort after all. Men as well should be neatly and modestly dressed in long pants. If you wish, men may borrow and don a dhoti in lieu of trousers, and there are scarves and other coverings available for women as well. You will also be asked to remove your shoes. This all adds a feeling of peace, wonder, and respect within the temple. Non-Hindus obviously shouldn't enter or photograph the inner sanctum of the temple.

Nice view, of the temple

Indians were originally brought to the islands as indentured servants. After serving out the terms of their servitude, usually five years, they were free to return (although the price of passage would no doubt have necessitated additional service). Most stayed, finding something in their new land which spoke to their hearts and souls. From just the brief time we had in Fiji, I believe we caught a glimpse into what that was.

The weather is perfect. We were there in June, winter in Fiji, the dry season. It was never cold, and never too warm. Just beautiful sunrises and sunsets and all the moments in between. But what struck us most, was not the weather or the beauty of the natural landscape, although that is tremendous, but the people. J and L wished to explore the far end of Nadi Town, and so we took a taxi to the temple. Our driver was a Fijian Muslim, and he was happy to drive and explain a great deal about his experience of Fiji, politics, family and about the temple. He remarked that the Christians (primarily Methodists), Hindus and Muslims live together as brothers. If you go into a village, you will see them living side by side as Fijians. Proud of their history and background, respectful of tradition, but identifying culturally as Fijian, first. In a time when much of the rest of the world struggles with terrorism and disunity, it gives us such wondrous hope to see the citizens of this tiny nation living in harmony. 

Fiji has been referred to as being like a three-legged stool: requiring all the support of all its people: Fijian, Indian, European and others, to stand. A lesson those of us living in more industrialized nations should observe more closely.

Namaste.