Awesome rock formations near the Old Rock Bath House |
So, I pulled over, safely, on Outer Highway 18, and asked Mr. Google what historical places I might find in the area.
I’ve been all over Apple Valley. In fact, I lived there once upon another time, and knew that Jedediah Smith traveled through the region.
“Jed,” I said to the bearded, unkempt explorer.
“John,” he replied.
We parted ways then, me to my apple orchard and Jedediah south along the Mojave River.
Men did not talk much in 1826.
But there is so much to learn about the places in which we reside or may have resided.
A couple of hits came up on my search, Roy Rogers old residence, the Fairhope house, the Adobe House, and a few other famous houses in the area. I didn’t choose any of them. I wasn’t too sure the owners would like a stranger wandering their front yards snapping a photo here and there.
Then, as I scrolled down to places to visit, the Old Rock Bath House seemed like an interesting destination.
After entering the location into my vehicle's GPS, I was on my way and soon was lost.
Directions seemed quite simple. The Old Rock Bath House is near Fairview Valley, not far from Zuni Road, not far from Laguna Seca Drive, east of Fairview Valley Road, along Keator Road, and not far southeast of Drip Ranch.
After bouncing a while on the dirt Keator Road and passing by the same remote house in the area with a very nice man waving at me each time I bounced pass, I decided to stop.
“Looks like you are lost,” he said.
“Was it my expression or the fact I passed your house seven times in the past half hour?”
“And I waved each time,” he replied.
Our man-talk over, he pointed out another narrower dirt trail that led to a canyon deep into some very rocky canyons to the southeast of his property.
The kind stranger told me the road up to the site was too rough for my vehicle and meant for four-wheelers, and also that I should have taken the wide dirt road off of Cahuilla Road. It would have made the trip a lot easier.
Pretty rough route to the site |
Getting on to summer-like temperatures, I of course remembered the rules of desert hiking; bring water (I didn’t), have sturdy hiking shoes (I had on a fashionable pair of Sketchers), make sure people knew where I was (I wondered if that included the stranger I had just met), and know your personal limits (I know when it is time to leave a bar).
A half -mile hike uphill into an unknown canyon looking for something I hadn’t known existed wouldn’t be a problem.
It wasn’t.
A little thirsty, a bit out of breath (time to work-out more), and I found myself staring at large stone and concrete structures where the canyon, known as Hidden Canyon, narrows into the hills to the south of it.
Trail leading into Hidden Canyon |
There had been natural springs in the nearby hills and one such place was here where I was standing.
In an article written by Schmidt in 2018 for the Mohave Muse, it is rumored that Pegleg Smith and Bill Williams used to water their stolen horses in the canyons, while eluding the owners of those stolen horses.
In 1862, the United States Congress enacted the Homestead Act, giving free land to those willing to move west.
It worked and millions of once vacant acres were developed by those willing to take a chance and head to the unknown to better their lives.
It was also here in this hidden cove with water that Warren Hair decided to homestead 25 acres of land in 1919. He began construction on several structures in the hopes of creating a family oasis.
As I strode about the buildings, one thing stuck me, and it was the finely made rock stairway leading away from the largest of the structures to what appeared to be a creek at the bottom of the stairs.
Beautiful stairs leading to seasonal stream |
No water was running, but I could imagine at certain times of the year, the creek would be flowing well from its steep grade through the canyon. If someone built a dam, or a reservoir, then water could be contained possibly through drier parts of the year.
The remoteness of the canyon would surely be an advantage in keeping the water a secret from others who may take advantage.
According to an article from the San Bernardino Sun, dated November 13, 1949, a permit to divert water was issued to a Clifford Hair, the son of Warren, to use for the family’s homestead.
Looking over the remains of the structures, a heck of a lot of work was put in by both Warren and Clifford through the decades to build the various rock and cement buildings. It was rather eerie walking about the place.
Some of the remains that are still visible |
In my many travels, I have encountered places like the Old Rock Bath House, but it never tends to diminish the feeling of awe I have for such folks who invested such labor and time into their dreams.
It always seems to be an honor to walk where they once tread.
Clifford may have had a dream to create a holiday resort at the location. A hidden cove where an abundance of cool water flowed from above. What a great idea for a desert and those who may have wanted a chance to wash away the dust.
But, from the early 1900s, cattlemen in the area had been using the water which flowed from the Isabelle Spring, now part of the Hair’s claim, to water their livestock.
It was easy to take a herd of cattle to the canyon, water them and head back to the ranch, but the cattle would tear up the trails leading to the springs.
A solution was needed to keep the property pristine. Clifford decided to fence the property off.
Apple Valley, being a small and close-knit community at the time, Clifford ran into numerous disagreements with the ranchers about fencing off such an easy access to water.
But he stuck to his guns and continued with the building project.
Great construction by Hair |
It seems, Clifford had gone into the canyon to work and had not been heard from for nearly a week. When investigated by his family, his body was found lying at the bottom of the creek near one of the structures he had been working on.
A single bullet hole through the heart was the cause of death.
It was known that he carried a revolver for protection against rattlesnakes. The police investigation concluded the gun had dropped and accidentally discharged, killing him.
Right through the back and into his heart.
I do not believe in conspiracy theories, but I do love a good conspiracy.
A man suddenly gates off a popular watering hole for ranchers and a later is found shot through the back.
Hmmm?
In all transparency, I have not been privy to the actual police or coroner’s report and have not read if the bullet which killed Hair was the same caliber as the gun Hair carried with him.
I’m sure a thorough job was completed to get to the bottom of the death at the time though.
Wandering about the property, I wondered what Clifford’s last thoughts may have been on that fatal day.
Possibly ‘I should have holstered my gun better’ or ‘perhaps I should not have fenced off the water.’
We will never know, but one thing is for certain, Clifford Hair had a dream and continued with it to his last day in that hidden canyon, building his rock bath house.
Hair's dream and hard work almost came to fruition |