Amboy Crater

J and L often think that all we need to do is to look in our own backyards for new adventures and exploration. We truly believe this, and a recent weekend outing proved that assertion to be true.

On the way home from Bullhead City, Arizona, J and L decided to venture off Interstate 40 westbound and strike out along a portion of old Route 66, near Amboy. Amboy was once a famous, or perhaps infamous, little burg that was once the stopping place for weary travelers traveling west toward California from places to the east - way east.

A relaxing respite from day and night travel; what better place to spend a few minutes, a few hours or even a night to catch up on energy spent on the road?

Harrison Ford cruising Amboy

But this blog is not about the town of Amboy, although the town is actually making quite a comeback. Roy's Diner is open seven days a week, as more and more tourists stop to take photos where numerous films and commercials were shot. As a matter of fact, the sign for the restaurant is a 1959 addition to the property, the same year the film, Journey to the Center of Earth was filmed, in part, in Amboy. Rutger Hauer's cult classic, The Hitcher was filmed here in 1986; and Brad Pitt and David Duchovny were hanging around Roy's during the filming of Kalifornia in 1993. Casting no aspersions on the place, most recently Amboy has served as the locations for more than a few B-rated horror flicks.

On a lighter note, the area served as the backdrop for Enrique Iglesias' music video Hero, as well as the cover art in 2008 for Rush's album Snakes & Arrows Live. And, local legend has it (and autographed photos in the diner tend to add credence) that Harrison Ford is a frequent visitor, landing his personal place at a nearby strip -- the oldest in California.

This story is about that - the Amboy Crater, let's go

Pretty impressive for a place in the middle of nowhere, little Amboy has quite a history but again, this is about the Amboy Crater.

Middle of nowhere - not quite - a lot happening in this part of Route 66

The Mojave Desert is an amazing source of research and exploration. The cinder cone of the Amboy Crater is believed to be about 80,000 years old with periodic eruptions ending ten thousand years ago. A very active part of the Mojave Desert has similar but not as definitive cones (areas sunken with remaining side walls of material encircling the actual eruption site) as the Amboy Crater.

That little volcanic area that erupted in the Mojave Desert is what placed Amboy on the historical map. While ten thousand years in geologic time is like yesterday, we are glad it wasn't yesterday since J and L live in the Mojave Desert; and that would be awkward and potentially life threatening. Seriously though, Southern California is known for earthquakes but not so much for the volcanic activity which once proliferated all around the Golden State. With tectonic plate shifting comes the chance of volcanoes erupting here and there and Southern California just happens to be in the 'here' area.

This baby isn't going to blow any time soon - we hope!

Of course, most if not all volcanoes in the Mojave Desert are inactive - which is simply a geologist's way of saying: "I don't think anything will blow up soon around here. Oh wait, I have a plane to catch."

Hundreds if not thousands of visitors come to this remote area to walk, hike, and explore the area which is like stepping back into time.

There is a short area of smooth walking but most is over level rocky trails

The actual material was layer upon layer spewed up out of the earth over eons and consists mainly of pahoehoe which is a Hawaiian term (Hawaiians being the notable volcano experts) for smooth or unbroken lava.

This basaltic lava has a smooth, billowy, undulating or ropy surface. That happens when the lava below the surface is still very fluid, like molasses, but the top is quickly congealing so the lava path has a chance to stretch out and become smoother, often forming tunnels. The temperatures at the time of formation are a cooling two thousand degrees Fahrenheit. No matter what, the surface around the crater is crammed with hardened rock that, to the naked eye, may not appear to be particularly smooth. But J and L aren't geologists and only look at things as they appear. Smooth and billowy - nope. Hardened and at one time dangerous to walk on - yep.

This looks pretty hard for both bipedal and quadrupedal creatures.

At the ridge line of the cone, nearly 250 feet above the rest of the lava-strewn valley, the views of the desert are amazing -- a delight for photographers and artists who want to capture the reality of a violent past to a peaceful present.

The moon, right?

Walking into the crater allows the explorer a chance to look around at a surface that could be compared to that of the moon. Sandy, rocks here and there, but most notable is the silence. Yes, the wind does blow but when it stops so does everything else for a moment. When that quietness engulfs the crater you feel as if you are on another world. This is definitely the place to go if the adventurer is out in the Mojave Desert driving down Route 66 and just happens to pass a sleepy depot known as Amboy. Stop and have a bite at Roy's but don't forget that strange-looking thing just south-west standing against the backdrop of the Mojave Desert. Take a stroll to the Amboy Crater and realize that stroll has now
brought you to where the past meets the future.

Pretty steep walls - makes the place quiet

As we've said many times, we relish the thought of seeing things in your own backyard. It can be fascinating as we found out by simply getting off of the state highway and taking a two lane road home.

Sit a spell and learn about the area of Amboy

A little time consuming? Perhaps, absolutely worth it when we realized we've experienced something thousands of drivers will never see driving westbound on Interstate 40 heading to the Pacific. Taking a philosophical page from Miriam Beard: "Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living."

That is the human spirit - go to the mountain and learn what is there to be learned. Just the experience is worth the travel.

Midnight, what better place to be than here?

Remember the Date Line

A lot of islands out there Captain Cook - we mean a lot!

An eleven hour flight from LAX to Fiji seemed just fine except for the fact that we left at eleven-thirty at night and were crossing the date line a few hours after skipping over Hawaii at nearly thirty-three thousand feet. Once landing in Nadi, the tourist mecca where the International Airport is located,  there was a so-called short bus ride to the Suva, the capital city of the three hundred islands of Fiji which took nearly five and a half hours. We were told it was a 'two and half or maybe three hour drive’ – we were misinformed as the bus stopped at every opportunity to pick up or drop off passengers.

A 5 hour bus drive after 11 in the air, no big deal!

Tired was not even close to how we felt as we dragged out our suitcases from the underbelly of the bus and staggered to the only hotel with room to spare in Suva. It wasn’t a manger but darn close with no hot water, no television, and air conditioning which worked when it wanted to – turned it was on strike.

The fan worked a bit but nothing else

Luckily, June is winter in the southern hemisphere so we only sweated a bit – John quite a bit and Laureen only glowed with the humidity.

But we were in the South Pacific – tales of Bligh, Cook, and countless other wanderers from India, Africa, and Europe lighting up our imaginations. This is where the ancients (and not so ancient) had ventured into the Pacific Ocean with only the stars and their wits to guide them to whatever laid in front in the path for a better future.

Adventurers is a meek term to utter when describing how the peoples who knew nothing about the written language were able to shove a wooden canoe manned by sixty paddlers and strike out into the blue waters hoping that they would eventually land somewhere they could call home. 

Replica of just one of the various styles of outriggers used by the early Fijians

Brave or stupid but the fact these land seekers also piled into those canoes family members, pigs, dogs, and lots of living agriculture leaves nothing but admiration for these hearty souls. They made it from the tip of India or Asia (depends on who you read) and traveled from archipelago to archipelago over hundreds of years to eventually reside permanently in the South Pacific (wasn’t there a famous musical with that title?).  

That's the place - the South Pacific!

Of course, the islanders often landed and left residents on other islands like a tidal wave and each culture became its own except for the very inner workings. All these folks held tightly to their religious values which if looked at in nearly every island culture works its way right back to each other – too many similarities to not be similar. An amakua (family protective god) may be a turtle in Fiji and perhaps a shark may work in Hawaii and maybe a Miller Lite works in California but the point is all these people had something in their roots which recognized each other.

They warred with each other over the eons but don't also modern families?

This is why there are jobs for anthropologists – theories and more theories combined with research leaves more questions than answers. Especially where research is very difficult when none of these fine people being studied used a written language and history was passed down through the generations orally with the occasional use of the kava root – well, history can change a bit when the inner mouths are tingling and the mind goes from seeing clear to seeing flying dolphins.

Per the dictionary: The roots of the kava plant are used to produce a drink with sedative and anesthetic properties. kava is consumed throughout the Pacific Ocean cultures of Polynesia, including Hawaii, Vanuatu, Melanesia and some parts of Micronesia. (See canoe plants.) Kava is sedating and is primarily consumed to relax without disrupting mental clarity (yeah, right - our addition to the definition).

Let's all belly-up to the Kava bar

It should be noted that at no time did the research team of J and L indulge in a Kava ceremony in a local village – that would taint research.

Dude! Did you see that whale dancing with the mermaid – oooohhhh – one more cup of Kava please.

Back now to the story.

Being in the capital of Fiji and the home of nearly one million people we were ready to hit the streets and do what we do best – walk.

No taxis for the crew – walk and walk until the need to buy new pairs of shoes. Our brains were geared, as always in a new country to get out and explore but brains be damned – our bodies said ‘no.'

One night in a hotel which when taking a cold shower in the morning reminded one of a scene from Shawshank Redemption with the warden laughing in glee while clapping his hands told the intrepid duo to find a new hotel – rest and explore the following days.

J and L decided that a respite at the Grand Pacific Hotel was what was needed and though rather costly (something the Irish in John didn't like) it was money worth spent. The GPH has hosted royalty, celebrities from around the world and makes them and all guests feel at home. It was an extremely enjoyable experience for both J and L and will be the only place they stay on return trips to Fiji.

The Grand Pacific Hotel - Suva - 5 Star and worth every one

Nice lobby to unwind in after a day of exploring

A nice view from our room

Good choice – a wonderfully comfortable bed, plenty of space, unlimited hot water and hotel employees who kept asking if there was anything else needed to make our stay any better. That does make a difference after spending nearly seventeen hours reaching the destination and losing a day.



One rule of travel is to understand time zones and really understand that to enjoy you have to be able to keep the eyes open and the brain alert.

The Victoria Lounge - time to relax

If not – grab a good hotel and relax – there is always tomorrow – there have been for billions of years. 

The End?

As with all things with a beginning, there is also an ending. This is one of those moments for J and L Research and Exploration - it is time to bid a fond adieu.

With over four years writing about our exploits locally and abroad we have decided to hang up the keyboard and pursue other adventures. Of course, it did take a little arm twisting from being one of the winners of the California Superlotto - okay there was no wrangling of our appendages to make this decision.


With John's third novel, 'Iquitos - the Past can Kill' (working title) and his fourth set in Europe for 'Vlad - The Last Crusader' it was decided to relocate to a home we purchased in Ireland for the chance to write and relax. The small village of Bray on the east coast is not more than 12 miles from Dublin with a population of nearly 32,000, and seems the most logical place to reside. Cool ocean breezes, thick green hills (bre means hill in Gaelic), and just large enough to be comfortable in with lots of pubs to sit and tip a few Guinness with the locals. Of course, with Dublin so nearby there will not be a chance to miss the nightlife on those occasions when being in a large city is called for.

Seemed like the correct apparel at time of signing deed

The house, or more like a small castle (doesn't everyone want to live in a castle) is located on a high point west of the city center and is nestled on nearly five acres of treed land.

A nearby ancient, probably 13th century fortified tower house also occupies the property but is in pretty bad shape but nothing a few years won't bring back to life with the assistance of a local stone mason who has looked at the tower and deems it salvageable. So, just on this small plot of land in the Irish countryside there is plenty of research and exploration to be had.

Needs work - a stone mason or two

Roots - important part of life.

Perhaps, in time we will again enter the realm of the blogger sphere with more tales of Ireland - but then again who knows?

At this point we are busy selling homes, reducing household goods, getting the puppies their shots and correct paperwork for the journey to the Emerald Isle and saying farewell to friends and family in California and across this great land.

We will always be Americans at heart but for the foreseeable future we will be ex-pats living in the land of our roots - Ireland.

A Haunting We Will Go

"There are some human beings who are dimly aware of their own deaths, yet have chosen to stay on in what used to be their homes, to be close to surroundings they once held dear." - Hans Holzer, legendary paranormal researcher who passed away in 2009.

What does a rational logical person do when they are visiting a city where there is supposed to be one of the most haunted houses in America?

Explore it of course.

That's exactly what J and L did recently while in San Diego for another matter which dealt with being Hunted and not Haunted. Okay that was a cheap shot at self-promoting the novel Hunted and I hope our readers will forgive that dalliance.

We had heard about the number one rated haunted house in America according to Travel Channel's America's Most Haunted and knew we had to walk those spooky grounds. We wanted to tread along the wooden floor boards and hear the creaks and moans of folks who hadn't decided to go 'to the other side' and perhaps convince them perhaps they should or at least to get them to be quieter and not scare the tourists.

After purchasing the entrance tickets for the Whaley House located in Old Town San Diego in lieu of  New Town which is actually downtown San Diego where another haunted location exists called the William Heath Davis House. We had visited that haunt (if you'll permit the pun) earlier in the day without a whisper in our ear or even a tug on our clothes by invisible forces - wouldn't you think there should be a refund policy for not even having one single hair on your arm rise after spending forty minutes going up and down stairs in a ghostly inhabited place?

No such luck.

Determined, we sauntered into the Whaley house which was a rather large and comfortable considering it was built in 1857 on a slight hill looking south west out toward the bay of San Diego. The docents where wonderfully attentive and one fine gentleman grabbed onto us in the main hallway and explained all the paranormal happenings that had occurred within the walls of the house since it had been built.

It seemed Thomas Whaley had purchased a vacant lot which once what the location for the hangings of some of the lower elements of early San Diego but not being a believer in visitors from the afterlife he pooh-poohed the ideas and constructed the two story brick house for his family. One of the most notorious men to have been hung on or nearby the property was one Yankee Jim (James Robinson) who had been convicted of numerous crimes and received a death by hanging decree in 1852. The only problem was that Yankee Jim was a rather tall fellow and when the wagon was forced away from him with rope around his neck the tips of his boots touched the ground. Instead of the usual snap crackle pop of the neck the poor man swung around and chocked to death. Records stated it took nearly 30 minutes for poor Yankee Jim to give up the ghost.

Or perhaps he didn't.

Soon after Whaley built the house and moved his family in the spooking started with the nightly creaking of the ninth step on the inside stairwell. The 'cold' spots where the Whaley's were certain someone from the other side was standing. In fact, it got to the point that Thomas Whaley became a believer in the supernatural (it should be noted he was there when Yankee Jim was executed and believed not in spirits revisiting) especially after hearing the footsteps moving about the entire house at odd hours of the night and not just on the ninth step any longer. He was spooked but it would get worse.

In 1871 being despondent over a failed or troubled marriage the Whaley's twenty-two year old daughter, Violet shot herself in the outhouse and her father carried his dying daughter into the salon where she soon died. It has been reported over the decades one can hear someone crying in that room when there isn't anyone there. As typical with any such a haunted place there are stories of the caretakers, visitors, and other such folk who heard and felt strange occurrences within the Whaley House. There have been children reporting a man waving at them wearing a strange looking outfit - it has been thought that young children are more in tune with ghosts than older folks and clothing from the 1850's would surely look strange to a little one now wouldn't it?

After a rather lengthy description of the house we thanked the Docent and wandered about the interior and exterior of the place for an hour, even haunting (probably wrong term) around a bit on the ninth step bouncing up and down.

Nothing! Or was there?

Not a tingle, not an itch, not a tug, and no cold spots except walking by an upstairs open window and feeling the wonderful cool breeze from the San Diego Bay.

But when we returned home and checked our photos, in the room where the young lady breathed her last, there was a strange lighting effect. (See the comparisons photos). Was there something, someone, after all?




Again, it was a bit of a bust for ghost hunting but worthwhile all the same with the marvelous and tantalizing history that Old Town San Diego has to offer.

But don't expect a refund if you don't get spooked - that should be changed according to this writer.

Whaley House Museum

whaleyhouse.org/

Old Town San Diego Guide

www.oldtownsandiegoguide.com/

William Heath Davis house San Diego, California - GoThere

gothere.com/sandiego/Ghosts/DavisHouse/default.htm