St. Patrick's Day

Today, we want to celebrate St. Patrick's Day - a holiday that's near and dear to our hearts, as we both have Irish heritage.

Welcome to Dublin, Ireland

St. Patrick's Day is a time to celebrate all things Irish, from traditional foods like corned beef and cabbage to festive decorations in shades of green and gold. But for us, it's also a time to reflect on the rich history and culture of Ireland - and to explore the country itself.

Laureen and John onboard and on the North Sea - exploring

One of the highlights of our travels in Ireland was visiting the ancient ruins of the Rock of Cashel - a sprawling complex of stone buildings perched on a hilltop in County Tipperary. As we wandered through the ruins, we were struck by the sheer scale of the structures and the intricacy of the carvings and designs that adorned them.

Laureen in front of an ancient metal gate

But it wasn't just the buildings themselves that captivated us - it was the stories behind them. From the legends of Irish kings and queens to the struggles of the Irish people under British rule, every stone at the Rock of Cashel seemed to hold a tale waiting to be told.

And of course, no discussion of Ireland would be complete without mentioning the country's literary heritage. From James Joyce to W.B. Yeats, Ireland has produced some of the greatest writers in the English language - and exploring their works is a journey in itself.

A great pub to sit and discuss the Literary Giants of Ireland

So as we celebrate St. Patrick's Day this year, we're reminded of the rich history and culture of Ireland - and of the incredible adventures we've had exploring the country. Whether you're Irish or not, we hope this holiday inspires you to learn more about the Emerald Isle and all it has to offer. 

John exploring one of the many ancient sites visited in Ireland

Yule Go a-Viking

Hmmm, who would win?

A vastly misunderstood people, Vikings are often characterized as mere savages. Even the term ‘Viking’ comes from the Scandinavian ‘vikingr’ meaning pirate – so you can certainly see the parallel. But this term refers more to the time in summer when Scandinavian men would go ‘a -Viking’ and head out on a oversea expedition with the goal of trade or to work as foreign mercenaries. And, well, let’s be honest, there was quite a bit of plundered treasure, and a number of slaves brought back to the homeland for the winter, so we can only defend the characterization so much. 

Dublin - site of a Viking settlement

The Vikings were a sea-faring culture who thrived from the late 8th century through the early 11th century, establishing quite a legacy for themselves. They discovered the Americas centuries before Columbus was born and explored as far east as Russia. Honing their ship-building skills for more than ten centuries, they constructed everything from small fishing boats, to large cargo vessels (to carry all that treasure), and lightning fast longships, all of which were narrow with short drafts, making them well-adapted for use in rivers as well as on the ocean. The Vikings invented the keel, and though their boats were technological marvels, they paid as much attention to the art as they did the craft of the construction of their vessels. The dragon-head on the front of the Viking vessel, designed to keep away evil spirits, struck fear into the hearts of Europeans for centuries.

Viking town in Dublin 1014

The Scandinavian geography had a significant impact on the development of the Viking culture. The difficult location and terrain meant that, for the most part the Vikings were tribal; there was no unified Viking army. When they weren’t a-Viking, they maintained homes with their wives as farmers. The growing season was short and resources were scare, so most Vikings were actually smaller in musculature and stature than many of their contemporaries. 

So, what can modern man learn from the Vikings? Well, not to supplement your income by raiding; there is a limited amount of other people’s treasure – and it doesn’t make friends. No, in this season of giving, let us be generous to our Scandinavian ancestors and see what we can learn from the way they lived, a thousand years ago.

Lassies love a man who treats them with dignity and respect.

First, view, and treat women with dignity and respect, if not outright equality. There is evidence to suggest to Vikings fought beside their wives, sisters, and both sons and daughters. Evidence suggests that they trusted each other to take responsibility for leadership roles, and although there were indeed gender-specific roles (men went a-Viking, while women tended the children, home and farms), men and women often worked together on tasks. In the pantheon of Norse gods and goddesses, there is also quite an equitable distribution of power.

And speaking of faith…the Vikings were a very faithful people. Whether it was a commitment to a particular god or to the pantheon, life and activities were built around these beliefs. As Vikings encountered individuals of other faiths, this led many to a curiosity and later an adoption of a new belief in Christianity.

John with one of his Viking comrades

But the Viking man does this, without sacrificing what it is to be a man. The Viking Ideal man is still Alpha, yet in touch with art and emotion. Strong and sensitive? Sounds just about perfect.

Finally, the Viking loves to travel, to explore, to meet new people, and develop new relationships. We at J and L especially applaud this Viking attribute. We all benefit from the open-minded, open-heartedness we inherit from our Scandinavian forbearers. Especially in this age of partisanship, we can appreciate the Viking ability to survive and thrive as a culture for centuries despite their differences, traveling throughout the world, into the unknown, discovering people and places not even imagined, and managing to cultivate a kindred spirit. Enough that more than a thousand years later, we are still fascinated by them. 

A thousand years ago, the Vikings gathered in middle of January and celebrated Jol – or Yule. They exchanged gifts, and drank beer, toasted the gods, thanking them for the gifts of the past year as they welcomed the new. As you enter your yuletide celebrations, may we ask that you raise your glass, and join us at J and L as we toast the Vikings? 

Yuletide Greetings!

Viking

Aye, my Lassie - that is a Viking

When J and L spent a month in Ireland a few seasons back, we were surprised and impressed to learn that near the confluence of the Rivers Poddle and Liffey, in the capital city of Dublin, there once stood Viking settlement dating back to the 9th Century.

Who’d have thunk it?

Artists rendering of a Viking Irish settlement

The Vikings in Ireland – the land of a thousand welcomes.

Some of the known Viking settlements in Ireland

This called for some research and what better place to start than the Annals of Ulster. These recordings of events year by year were started in the 6th Century and continued until approximately 1540. They are the story, mostly verbatim of medieval Ireland. A treasure trove of facts and figures depicting what went on during those centuries in Ireland. One, and only one issue is that stories that are written in the Annals of Ulster date back to about 431 A.D. So, a bit of a consternation for the researcher is that prior to the 6th Century nothing was written down immediately but left to recollections and stories passed down by the generations.

A page from the Annals of Ulster

It is this area which some of the history may be a bit sketchy –  as in not a hundred percent certain of the facts. Needless to say historians as well as just the good old everyday Irish person loves these annals since it spells out the marvelous, if often dark, history of this island nation.

The facts down and dirty

The annals are written in the Irish pr Gaelic, as well as in Latin. That fact has sent shivers of joy up the spine of linguists as they study the evolution of the country’s language.

Well, it is mentioned in the annals that the Vikings arrived around 795 as the warriors set out to rob and pillage Gaelic Irish coastal settlements. As the raids continued, the raiding parties grew to the point that a settlement needed to be built so they could live and pillage further inland on the island.
Those Vikings – they just loved their pillaging.

Who wouldn't want to plunder and get these riches?

In order to establish the safety of their settlement, the Vikings built a ‘longphort’ or simply, a ship enclosure or fortified naval encampment. It was here, in modern day Dublin that the first one was built in 841 near what is now Parliament Street in Temple Bar West – not far from the Dublin Castle.

It is a fascinating area to walk around in the city. Modern structures towering all about and then the remnants of a Viking longphort literally beneath your feet. At the National Museum of Ireland there are exhibits after exhibits exploring the history of the Vikings and their contributions to Ireland. Not only were they ruthless warriors but actually helped settle parts of Ireland and became good stewards on the land.

Where a Viking 'longphort' once stood in Dublin

That is saying a lot from what is generally thought of the Vikings.

There is, according to the annals, a chance that the Viking warlord Amlaib, also known as Olaf the White, made Dublin the capital city of his territory in 853 and pronounced himself King.  He jointly ruled the area for fifteen years with his brothers Imar – Ivar the Boneless (yes, the same character portrayed on the History Channel in the series The Vikings) and Auisle. The brothers used Dublin as the center to conduct military action against the Kings all over Ireland.

Alex Hogh Anderson playing Ivar the Boneless - son of Ragnar 

The Irish had had enough and in 902, the Irish Kings of Brega, Leinster used a military tactic known as a two-pronged attack on Dublin successfully driving the Vikings back into the sea. But a short twelve years later the Vikings returned and started the Second Viking Age on the island.

Can’t keep a good (or bad) Viking down for long.

John with one of his Viking friends.

So, a visit to Ireland not only brings great food, wonderful company, delicious beer in cozy pubs but the chance of walking where famous Vikings once trod. It is a country full of surprises and as J and L found out that there doesn’t seem enough time in a person’s lifetime to learn all that the Emerald Isle holds in the world of history.

And there are always the pubs - that is enough sometimes.

Camping in Ireland

The American born author, Marianne Williamson, once wrote: ‘We may have bad weather in Ireland, but the sun shines in the hearts of the people and that keeps us all warm.’

 Nothing could be more true once a person spends time on the Emerald Isle and experiences firsthand a deluge from above which can chill to the bone but seems to dry instantly once they step into a pub. The smiling faces of the locals warms the heart and the welcoming conversations eases the discomfort of a rainy day.

That's how to warm up in a pub

Sunny afternoon and ready to set up camp

As we spent a month camping across Ireland it became apparent that Williamson knew a thing or two about the people of Ireland. Spending time tenting, cooking, and just socializing with fellow campers made us realize what a delight the Irish were.

Being of Irish ancestry, we both knew that we ourselves were a delight but meeting other delightful people only made the trip more delightful. 

 

Maybe not that delightful

 

Done and done for the evening

Huh?

A comfort of green grass better than a mattress - almost!

Back to the point – camping in Ireland is wonderfully rewarding with soft green grass to set up tents (pitching), cozy communal kitchens with fireplaces (because it rains a lot), large spacious restrooms with showers (one had over twenty separate shower stalls), laundry facilities, and close proximity to all the sight seeing any explorer could desire. The prices are reasonable – anywhere from twenty to sixty dollars per night which is relative to the United States considering all the amenities offered at the Caravan and Camping Parks. With large open lots with room enough for trailers, self-contained motorhomes and of course tents – which we used on our Ireland adventure, the parks offer any camper a chance to relax in style.

More than enough room for everyone no matter the style

 And generally cheaper than hotels.

The friends you may encounter while pitching

Though with camping there is more of a chance actually sitting in the evening with fellow travelers and discovering a lot about them and yourselves. Everyone we came into contact with were extremely friendly and had stories to tell – all Irish have stories to tell – and some are truthful.

At one camping park Laureen and John ran into a mother and daughter who were from England and were spending two months in Ireland moving from park to park to get a real feel of the country. A glass of wine or two in the cozy and fire warmed dining area – it had been raining hard which brought the temperature down quite a bit making the wood stove a welcome respite to enjoy swapping tales. From Ireland they were headed to Africa for a six month journey on their own. No detailed itinerary but simply a lust for adventure and new experiences.

Another pitching park, a young couple and their children were enjoying the grassy knolls and the wooded glens which contained narrow hiking paths. It was their holiday and from living in Dublin, the countryside was just what they wanted. The weather was warm and sunny which made this family take advantage of the outdoors.

What lies beyond in the glen?

 One evening around ten-thirty while sitting enjoying a refreshing glass of spirits we found ourselves camped on a high open area with a view of an amazing bay. A few houses sprinkled the hillsides near us while fishing boats bobbed up and down in the dark blue waters beneath us. Idyllic especially with the clear night sky giving us such views of the northern stars. Suddenly our peaceful serenity was broken by a man walking by on his way home from a local pub, the camp was in a small and quiet village. He stopped, tipped his hat and said good evening. We responded in kind and he laughed and pointed to the cloudless heavens.

“It’s going to rain you should be knowing?”

John smiled in return and gestured to Laureen that the man had had one too many pints at the local watering hole.

The clouds moved in around one a.m. and at least three-quarters of an inch of rain fell on top of our tent soaking everything – especially us.

Three hours later a deluge leaving everything soaking!

 With a laugh and dry clothes the next morning we headed to a nearby hotel where we set up our tent in our room to dry out. Always did wonder what the hotel maid must have thought over that scene – a king sized bed with a tent next to it?

Bloody tourists!

Again, to camp in Ireland is a great eye opening experiences that we would recommend to anyone with a mind to follow the example of thousands who do it yearly. 

Jack Nicholson once said: “I’m Irish. I think about death all the time.” Not to disagree with such a remarkable talent but perhaps if he would take the time to camp in his home country the quote may change to: “I’m Irish. There’s nothing better than pitching a tent in a quiet glen and rejoicing that I am alive.”

Hey Nicholson - relax and dream of life and not death  - huh?

For further information:

www.eurocampings.co.uk/ireland

www.totalcampingireland.ie/

www.camping-ireland.ie/

Pubs of Ireland

It's the Pub Life...

It's not the beer, but the food and the company

There are many reasons why one would visit the Emerald Isle as described a few times within this blog but one of the most rewarding is get a taste of the pub life.

Is that L in the window?

Before there was Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, or any other forms of social media, people used to rely on face to face communication to get local and even international news. Conversation was a big wonderful deal. Sitting together and discussing the day’s events personally instead of relying on zeros and ones. The distance from face to face started to devolve when Alexander Graham Bell developed an instrument folks could talk with each other over a distance without the benefit of facial expressions – the telephone. It really changed when Mark Zuckerberg invited people to join a network where despite its name, there is no face to face time on Facebook. Now, 140 characters is all you get to speak of love - instead of a lifetime.

But even with all the modern conveniences there still is a bit of magic when talking with someone up close and personal. Not just family members or loved ones but those humans we come across in our travels. Those individuals whom we may only encounter once in a lifetime but that meeting proves to be very rewarding as we learn about each other on a very private or semi-private manner.

As we traveled through Ireland, one of the most enlightening times was when we stopped in the various pubs for a bite to eat and possibly some libation to quench our thirst. This is where social contact was not media and is the utmost in communication. Pubs are where the locals go at all hours to discuss politics, the weather  --though “its gonta rain again doncha know” – was the predominant weather forecast heard daily, business, and any other topic that was not taboo. Then again, the Irish are very vocal and we rarely found any topic that was untouchable – politically correct is not in the Gaelic dictionary – rather refreshing for a couple of American explorers.

No phones out? What gives?

Restaurants, though there are many and very tasty, tended to be not as much a draw for J and L while driving the highways and byways of Ireland. Pubs were where we spent meal times and thoroughly enjoyed the experience while talking to the locals who seemed never to be shy with a couple of strangers.

That's a Pub meal - yummy!

We learned where to visit ruined castles off the beaten track, which museums were 

worthwhile, legends of the wee people, stories of truly ghostly hauntings, which tours were legit, and numerous other bits of advice travelers need to know in a foreign country. Hours were spent while sipping a Guinness listening to local fisherman extolling on the catches of the day, business people discussing the ups and downs of the local economy, and even one late afternoon with a barrister as he laughed and entertained us with stories of the formalities of the Irish court system.

 

A local told us of this quaint spot to visit

Never once did we encounter, as we have in other countries, a cold shoulder because we were not locals – no, on the contrary it seemed we were hits and the locals wanted to hear tales about the United States, and share their opinions of our politics and political leadership.

 

This was rather logical since there is a true feeling of kinship between Ireland and the United States where according to the Unites States Census Bureau nearly 40 million Americans claim to be of Irish descent.

The most famous Irish descendant shaking hands with L

Perhaps that is why Ireland does feel like home away from home for so many – J and L included.