The Birds Don't Sing There - Part One

    There is a long-held local lore in the town of Oswiecim, in southern Poland, that birds do not sing near or around the notorious ex-concentration camp the Nazi’s built there once they had swept through Poland in 1939.

    I found that hard to believe; we saw them overhead flying over the hundreds of empty acres, as do butterflies take to the air, fluttering wings erratically here and there in gorgeous colors.

    It was an urban legend, but one that still sends a message that this place deserves utmost respect from any creature visiting this horrific historic site.

    The name of the town was changed, after occupation by the Nazis, to Auschwitz. The infamous death camp with the same name, where over 1.3 million humans were murdered by order of the Führer of Germany, Adolf Hitler, was built next to the city.

The Jewish people were told to mark their luggage so they could collect it
It was a lie; 90% were dead before the luggage was even collected by fellow prisoners

    There were actually three separate camps at Auschwitz. The most famous from films and documentaries was Auschwitz I, with the black wrought-iron sign across the entrance to the concentration camp that reads: Arbeit Macht Frei (Work sets you free).

The entrance gate to Auschwitz I - just plain lies by the Nazi's

    Camp 1 was set up as the main administrative center and concentration camp in June of 1940. It would be used in the beginning to house Polish political prisoners, resistance fighters against the Nazis, intellectuals, and anyone that the Nazi Party was afraid of.

    It was also used for forced labor, starvation, medical experiments, and executions. In August of 1941, the gas Zyklon B was used on a small group of 30 captured Soviet prisoners in Block 11. It proved successful. Then, in September of 1941, it was used to experiment on over 600 Soviet soldiers, 250 sick Polish prisoners, and 10 penal prisoners.

Where the poison gas, Zyklon B, was first used at Auschwitz I

    

Just one of many torture devices

    Again, a great success: after only 20 minutes of these men choking, vomiting, and dying, the Nazis knew they had an effective new method of extermination.

    It was time to bring this new devilish design to Auschwitz II, also known as Birkenau, whose only purpose for existence was truly mass murder.

    Auschwitz 1 was nearly 50 acres in size. Birkenau would be over 450 acres when finished in March of 1942. It was built on the backs of Soviet POWs. Nearly 90% of these men died building the concentration camp from starvation, beatings, and outright murder by the Nazis in charge.

The first crematoriums used at the Aushwitz complex

    This camp, Birkenau, would be the centerpiece in Hitler’s war against the European Jewish population. It would be the model for other camps, such as Sobibor, Majdanek, Belzec, and others. At the end of WWII, historians believe 11 to 17 million people were murdered within these camps set up by the Nazis, including the 6 million Jewish people who suffered the same fate.

Just some of the shoes stolen by the Nazi's before gassing the Jews

    Those, besides the Jews, who were wiped out included, but were not limited to: Roma (Gypsies), homosexuals, the mentally impaired, political dissidents, intellectuals, and anyone else who did not raise their right arm straight enough in the statutory salute.

    In other words, anyone not toeing the party line correctly, according to the High Command.

    This camp was so efficient in the activity of killing that one day in June of 1944, 10,000 people were gassed and cremated. The daily average for the years the camp ran was around 2,000 per chamber per day, and it took nearly 30 hours to incinerate that many bodies of the men, women, and children.

The entire camp was surrounded by electrified barbed wire

     It was a well-run machine of death, and the camp commandant, Rudolf Höss, was well pleased with himself.

    In fact, he lived in a small villa a mere 20 meters from the front gate of Auschwitz I with his wife and children. He would go to work in the morning overseeing the torture and murder of thousands of innocent people and then return home to swim in the family's pool, play games with his children, and oversee the lush gardens. His wife, Hedwig, called the place a paradise, as she paraded around in looted mink coats and jewels taken from murdered Jews from the camp.

    To try to understand how humans can live as the Hosses did is like trying to unravel the complexities of the universe. It is mind-boggling.

    “How did work go today, Dear?” Hedwig may ask.

    “Well, my little Liebling, we met our quota of Jews, nearly twenty-three hundred. Not bad for a Thursday.”

    That was not in any way to be humorous, just the opposite. How could any sane person believe a man could spend his day orchestrating the cold-blooded killing of fellow humans and then go home and live a regular life with his family? It is far beyond the pale, and scholars to this day are still trying to figure out what prompted these monsters (and I don’t want to offend monsters by putting them in the same category as people like Rudolf Hoss) to act as they did on a day-to-day basis.

    The only light at the end of the tunnel was that after WWII ended and many Nazis, including Hoss, were held accountable for their crimes against humanity, they paid for their mortal sins.

    Hoss was sentenced to death and was ironically hanged on the very same gallows that he had hung many innocent folks from at the entrance of Auschwitz I on April 16, 1947.

The gallows where mass murderer Rudolf Höss met his end

    Auschwitz III was an industrial forced labor camp to procure forced labor for the IG Farben Corporation for its rubber and fuel plant. Thousands died there, but nowhere close to the scale of what occurred at either Camp 1 or 2. In fact, there is nothing left today of Camp III, except a memorial set up in the town of Oswiecim, which changed its name back to Polish after the end of the war.

    To visit such a place as Auschwitz is to visit hell on earth for the millions of victims the Nazis so ruthlessly murdered.

    But it is also a site that most should travel to and pray this sort of madness never repeats itself, something each of us needs to keep in mind. And we do know that history has a peculiar way of repeating, unfortunately.

    And that is why Laureen and I decided to travel to Krakow, Poland.

John can be contacted at beyersbyways@gmail.com

For more information:

https://www.viator.com/

https://www.auschwitz.org/en/

 

Munich Airport - Was fur ein Chaos!

Some time ago, Laureen and I were supposed to visit Hungary for research on a novel that I have been working on for years. Sometimes they actually take a very long time to write when the content has to be as accurate as possible. This novel was something different than my previous books - it would be a historical fiction about Vlad the Impaler.

    It is still being written. As stated, it sometimes takes a long time for this sort of book to be written, especially by someone like me, who, while watching a movie on television, fact-checks everything.

    “You know,” Laureen will say while I ask The Google this or that. “It’s just a film, not a documentary.”

    “I know,” I will respond, “but they would never do that in real life.”

    “It’s a science fiction movie set a thousand years into the future.”

      “Facts are facts, even in the future,” I would answer.

    I needed to visit Hungary because that is where the story of Vlad III rolls through. Not only was he in Romania, Wallachia to be more exact, but he ended up, through trials and tribulations, traveling to Hungary and then to what would become present-day Slovakia.

Vlad III, the hero of Romania

    But when I informed Laureen that the flight plan called for a stopover in Vienna before proceeding to Budapest, that was that.

Laureen Beyer in the heart of Vienna

    The songwriter, Billy Joel, once penned a song entitled Vienna on his album The Stranger in 1977. It was a sad song about a youth trying to find success too quickly and not wanting to slow down until he had reached the pinnacle in his career. It was actually a soul-felt story about Billy Joel traveling to Europe to get in contact with his estranged father. One day he saw an elderly woman sweeping the streets. He thought it a shame that she had to do that, but was reminded by his father that she was proud of the work she was doing and no one should feel sorry for the manual labor she did. She was happy even in her aging years.

The Danube River flowing through Vienna

     One line in the song really stood out to Laureen; When will you realize Vienna waits for you.

    Well, Hungary was off that scheduled research trip, and instead we spent a wonderful two weeks touring around Austria, and of course, spending ample time in the beautiful city of Vienna along the Danube River.

This current trip from LAX would land us in Munich, Germany, for the connector flight to Budapest, another city on the Danube. 

    

Buda Castle across the Danube River

    An interesting side note: Budapest was once two separate cities, Buda and Pest, facing each other across the wide, long Danube. If we want to get extremely technical, there was also the independent city of Obuda (or Old Buda) just north of Buda with ancient roots dating back to Roman times. But let’s not digress. Buda and Pest for our purposes.

    Buda is the hilly western side of the Danube where the castles and medieval streets are located. Pest in the flat eastern side of the river that the commercial, political and cultural aspects of the city are located.

Another view of the Danube and the Buda Castle

    In 1873, the two towns decided that perhaps one is better than two, and Budapest was declared the capital of Hungary. It sounded better than Pest-Buda, after all.

    Our original plan was to stay in Hungary and research the tales and myths concerning Vlad III. We would spend a few days in Budapest, then travel to Visegrad, about 26 miles north of the capital.

    Then we started researching other things other than Vlad. Slovakia is close and home to gorgeous landscapes and wonderful restaurants, especially in Bratislava. And the little town of Cachtice was within driving distance, which was once the home of the most notorious female serial killer known, Elizabeth Báthory. Who wouldn't visit the castle where she may have murdered up to 600 young women?

    As with any trip, more and more places started to fill the agenda. And Poland showed up on this trip since we both had wanted to visit and honor the victims of the Holocaust in Krakow.

    “You know, we only have twenty-one days,” I told Laureen.

    She smiled. “And when have we ever gone on vacation? It’s moving and shaking the entire time. This trip will be no different.”

    And it wasn’t, until we flew into Franz Josef Strauss Airport in Munich, Germany, where we had to catch our connecting Lufthansa flight to Budapest.

    In November of 2025, the rollout of the EES, Entry/Exit System, began in Munich and was fully operational (more on that later) for all non-EU/non-Schengen travelers. 

    Schengen is a border-free travel zone for 29 European countries. It allows 450 million people to move freely across internal borders without a passport check. It was fully implemented with all those countries in April of 2026.

    We were not part of those 29 European countries comprising the Schengen zone. And our experience with not being one of those 29 European countries was rather trying.

    Nope, not trying, more like traumatizing.

    As with most travelers who need connecting flights, time is of the essence.  Munich Airport did not understand the sort of urgency when a passenger can not make it to the gate on time. 

    Watching your connecting flight wing into the air like a bird while you are still standing on solid earth with your carry-on clutched in white knuckles, and your checked baggage is suddenly 30,000 feet above you, can be chilling.

    We took off on time from LAX and landed in Munich at the exact moment we were supposed to. Then all hell broke loose as men and women sporting neon vests moved hundreds of passengers from this line to that line to do a pre-registration before getting into longer lines for the border control passage to the gates for connecting flights.

    One man motioned for us to get into a line that stretched nearly to Berlin before another motioned us to another nearer Stuttgart. There were no markers, signs, or Bratwurst showing travelers where to actually go to scan your passport, get a facial recognition photo taken, and have your fingerprints scanned.

    “You, you are in the wrong line, Dummkopf!”

    “I think he’s speaking to me,” I told Laureen, as I hustled from one line to another.

    The clock was ticking. Now only forty-five more minutes to catch our connector.

    “Who said this line, Dummkopf?” another vested person yelled at me.

    “See,” I said, as I hustled to another longer line.

    The crowd had easily grown to about five thousand passengers wondering which line they were supposed to be in.

    “This is German efficiency?” A man questioned next to us. 

    He was led away by a woman with really shiny pointed black shoes and pigtails.

    Finally, we were scanned, fingerprinted, and photographed and told to get into another longer line for the border control officer.

    We wouldn't make our connection unless a kindly older couple let us cut the two-mile-long line and go behind them, giving us a three-minute window to run down the gangway and make it to our plane on time.

    Laureen and I understand Pope Leo is thinking of canonizing them for their sacrifice.

Pope Leo XIV getting ready to canonize our helpers

    We made it to the plane, to Budapest as scheduled, and our driver was waiting for us to take us to our hotel.

    Things were looking up. We explained what we had gone through in Munich, and Matyas, who went by the name of Matthew, laughed and said, “You should see how bad it is in Frankfurt.”

    For some reason, all I could imagine was wild-eyed chimpanzees chasing passengers around the terminal, throwing excrement at them.

    That would have been worse than Munich, I think.

John can be contacted at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

USS Midway, San Diego

John in front of the USS Midway in San Diego

As I huffed out a large breath, wondering if my lungs would recuperate, I asked Laureen how many steps we had taken during our visit to the USS Midway Museum in San Diego.

“I think,” she replied in a gasp, “my watch says around sixty-five thousand, but that could be wrong since my eyes are tearing up and I can’t see clearly.”

That’s a lot of steps. I’m used to maybe two hundred per day unless I have to use the restroom more often, depending on the day of the week.

But here we were, visiting the USS Midway and traversing all around this wonderful aircraft carrier launched out of Newport News, Virginia, on March 3, 1945. It never served in WWII, but has seen plenty of action since it was officially commissioned in September of that same year.

Laureen and I love San Diego. Try to get there as often as we can, but one historical place we’ve never set foot on until a recent weekend was the USS Midway aircraft carrier, permanently docked at the Embarcadero waterfront at Navy Pier.

Why we hadn’t, in the past, taken a tour aboard this gorgeous water war machine, since it has been docked there for over twenty years, is a question we asked ourselves. Thus, the reason we had our walking shoes on and eyes watching the steps taken.

The ship is huge. Over one thousand feet long, 258 feet wide at its widest point, and as tall as a 20-story building. Wandering everywhere the tour allows is not for the weak of heart but is a must-see to truly marvel at the ingenuity and magnitude of what the United States Navy has to offer.

We walked the flight deck, studying the 30 aircraft meticulously taken care of over the vast four-acre area on the USS Midway. 

Just some of the helicopters for tourists to visit

There was the F-4 Phantom III, the A-9 Corsair II, the TBM Avenger, the UH-1 Huey helicopter, and so many more aircraft the visitor can wander and gaze at, including the one made terrifically famous in the Tom Cruise film, Top Gun, the Grumman F-14 Tomcat.

A plane for any aircraft enthusiast

Just one of many planes on display

It was a somewhat warm but overcast day as we wandered about the USS Midway anchored in the San Diego Bay, but nothing could deter us from the excitement of visiting such a naval marvel as this ship is.

When active, the ship boasted a complement of nearly 4,700 personnel, broken up into the regular ship's company, the aircraft wing, and the smaller but lethal group of Marines assigned to the ship.

It was a floating city. And with a city comes extracurricular activities to make sure no one ever got bored while circumventing the Earth.

One of the best events was the steel beach picnics, where bbq’s were set up on deck, and the crew played sports, sang songs, listened to music, and enjoyed other activities. Movie nights, talent shows, driving golf balls off the deck into the ocean, and skeet shooting were done regularly to make sure being away from home for long deployments didn't feel that long or lonely.

The flight deck is 4 acres, plenty of room for activities

Plenty of room for crew and guests to wander the USS Midway

Although the ship entered service not long after WWII ended, it saw plenty of action during the Vietnam War and the Gulf Wars. Sortie after sortie, planes took off and landed along the lengthy runway on the ship, making sure that American interests were well handled no matter where on the globe the floating fighting ship was.

As a floating museum, the USS Midway is a must for any history enthusiast or just any person wanting to climb aboard a historic piece of American pride and truly respect the men and women who once sailed her.

Looking southwest toward Coronado Island

There are dozens of volunteer docents, most retired military, who are glad to stand with a visitor and answer any questions that may pop up. They know the answers because they love the history and splendor of this ship and what it represents.

One docent, Terry, told us, “I love coming here and meeting people from all over the world. They ask questions, and I do the best I can in answering every one of them. Of course, if there weren’t any tourists, I would still come here; it’s an honor to those who served aboard her.”

Terry then told us of a tour to the Castle, where all the goings-on of the ship are run from. “If you hurry, you will get the first tour, which isn’t crowded; later in the day it can be an hour wait.”

I learned about waiting from Disneyland. I hate waiting in lines, so off we ran over the flight deck and within minutes were climbing steep metal stairs up four decks to where the command post sits high above the ocean.

These are really straight-up ladders comprising 12 steps per floor, and by the time I had made it to number 48, I was tired and decided to sit in the Captain’s chair overlooking all the action down below on the flight deck.

View of the flight deck from the Castle

The sense of power which overtook me was sensational while sitting in the commander’s chair. I ordered Laureen to launch 4 Tomcats to ensure we had the proper dinner reservations at Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, or else!

Laureen enjoying the power of running the ship

She only smiled as she listened to the docent explain every nuance of the command bridge. The view was outstanding as we all looked out the wide glass windows facing Coronado Island, perhaps wondering what it would have been like gazing across open ocean waters, wondering if an enemy was also peering your way.

After leaving the Castle, we headed into the belly of the aircraft carrier to the crew's quarters, the many dining halls, the kitchen, the laundry, the engine room, the infirmary, the arms lockers, and so much more that I forgot all I saw except the number of stairways and ladders that each of the nearly 20 floors required to manoeuvre up and around.

One of the officers' quarters aboard the USS Midway

In the dining hall, in honor of those who did not return

The hallways were narrow, the ladders steep, the bunks tiny, which shows that to be aboard the USS Midway was a guaranteed way to keep in shape.

No one was knocking back a dozen Crispy Cremes and then racing up and down between decks. Nope, instant heart attack, though maybe with a smile on a glazed face.

We spent four hours on the ship, and that was probably not enough. But with nearly a hundred thousand steps on my made-up watch, I was tired and thirsty.

Luckily, there was the Cafe 41, which served adult libations on the aft deck, which helped with my parched throat and tired feet.

John R Beyer enjoying Cafe 41

Why we had not visited the USS Midway in the past, we don’t know. But we will be back again to enjoy all the Navy has to offer aboard this wonderful fighting ship.

John can be contacted at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

For more information: 

https://www.midway.org/

Stay In Your Element

John R Beyer always stays in his element

Laureen and I generally never recommend one hotel over another unless we have had a tremendous stay or a terrible stay during our many travels. And believe me when I say we have had some awesome stays in the past and some dismal ones.

When we stayed at the Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva, Fiji. That was one to talk about. A suite that overlooked Suva Bay and, further in the distance, the blue waters of the Pacific Ocean. Fabulous restaurants and a bar, attended by waiters and waitresses just waiting for us to order another drink. Well, waiting for me mainly.

Then we stayed in a thatched hut along the Amazon River in Peru, where guests were advised not to venture out into the jungle alone at night. Heck, the size of the insects crawling beneath our hammocks got us thinking that this was not where a sane person would wander day or night.

Our home away from home on the Amazon River, Peru

As any traveler knows, accommodations can either enhance an experience or detract from that experience. Let’s be honest, traveling is not cheap unless you are a good sprinter and can land on an empty boxcar in one leap.

So, as we travel, we look for the best quality in places to spend our nights. Are we always correct? Nope, but we do our best, like most folks who want to go out and explore.

After a recent blog, we received a couple of emails asking why we don’t recommend a place here or there. It is as if we travel and never stay the night. We fly to Italy and then return the same day without putting our tired heads on pillows.

We’re not travel agents or work for hotel chains. We go out around the nation or world and explore the best we can, but a couple of questions make sense. So, for this blog, we will discuss a place that we stayed in recently in San Diego.

America’s Finest City, the nickname for San Diego, is a place we love to visit no matter the time of year. In fact, I lived there a million years ago before moving north to the High Desert. After visiting time and again, Laureen and I joined the marina crowd for years and had a floatel; that name was given to our boat by our loving daughters. A floating hotel which they loved to use in the perpetually beautiful weather of San Diego.

The Beyer floatel

So, recently I suggested a weekend away. Laureen jumped at the idea, and we decided we wanted a place that we could just park our car and take the San Diego Trolley around town. 

After a bit of research, I came upon a newly constructed hotel by Marriott: The Element, in Mission Valley, right off Interstate 8.

The Element was completed in June of 2026 and boasted an eco-friendly, laid-back atmosphere for their guests. It was only a three-minute walk to the Rio Vista trolley station, which meant our vehicle could just sit in the parking lot for a couple of days, saving the cost of fuel and parking fees for the places we wanted to visit.

The trolley is a short 2 or 3 minute walk from the Element Hotel

San Diego has an extensive trolley system that allows passengers the comfort and affordability to go pretty much anywhere they want in this city by the bay. The tracks run for nearly 70 miles North, South, East, and West. A visit to the Mexico border? Hop on board. A visit to the snooty, rich enclave of La Jolla? Hop on board. Visiting relatives in Santee? Hop on board. Want to go Downtown? Hop on board.

It is a great system, and we took full advantage of it on this recent trip.

After a long day of riding the trolley and visiting Downtown, Little Italy, and Old Town, it was time to enjoy the spacious room that we had booked. 

Old Town geared up for the Day of the Dead festivities

Our home base was The Element, which shares a large plot of land with the Marriott right next door. Both hotels are interlinked in the services rendered for their guests. The picturesque waterfall pool at the Marriott is enjoyed by guests from both hotels. There are gyms, restaurants, and bars that patrons can enjoy during their stay in San Diego. The hotel is very family-oriented, with each room having a small kitchen, large refrigerator, microwave, and more than enough room for a large family to be comfortable.

One item that is not shared is the bicycles that The Element loans out to their guests. Tired of the trolley and wanting to stretch our legs, Laureen and I took advantage and rode several miles along the paths next to the San Diego River. Helmets are provided, as well as a written waiver in case a careless rider takes a header on Mission Center Road.

Laureen Beyer loving the free bike

The hotel also offers free breakfasts cooked on-site by professional chefs. They strive to be healthy, forgoing the usually highly processed breakfasts that most other hotels we have stayed at provide.

Our favorite breakfast was one egg, medium-cooked, laid upon a bed of mushrooms, ham, sweet potatoes, corn, onion, and spices. It was delicious.

Dinners have a large menu, from Flat Top Smash Cheeseburgers to Mediterranean Grilled Chicken Wraps. Of course, there are sides like the Tzatziki and Dill Pickle Chips ot the Salami and Fontina Board.

We had a view west toward Downtown overlooking the green belt surrounding the San Diego River. It was peaceful, quiet, and just a great place to rest and get re-energized for further adventures in the morning.

Overlooking the San Diego River from the Element Hotel

And, yes - San Diego has so much to offer for a weekend or longer visits.

John can be contacted at beyersbyways@gmail.com

For further information:

https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/sanme-element-san-diego-mission-valley/overview/?scid=f2ae0541-1279-4f24-b197-a979c79310b0

https://www.sdmts.com/transit-services/trolley

Meteor Crater, Arizona

Astronaut practicing near Meteor Crater

Buzz Aldrin looked at the rim of the massive crater hovering five stories above him. It was treacherous terrain, but Aldrin, being a part of the exclusive group of Apollo astronauts, was not nervous. It was his job to explore where no one had explored before.

The heavy suit hindered his movements, but Aldrin knew he had a job to do, and no difficulty would stand in his way.

Suddenly, his right boot caught a rock sideways, sending him to the ground with a painful crunch. Worse, though, was that a gaping tear had ripped through the suit's arm, and Aldrin knew what could happen within moments.

On the moon’s surface, he may lose consciousness within 15 seconds as his brain depletes the last of his oxygen supply. Since there would no longer be any artificial pressure within the suit, the water in his body would immediately begin to boil at normal body temperature. Finally, the lack of oxygen would cause his death within one or two minutes.

This was a serious situation, but the iconic adventurer would have another day to ponder that tear in the arm of his suit. This was Meteor Crater in Arizona, and NASA had just learned a valuable lesson.

Suits to function on the moon or other planets must have redundancy after redundancy to ensure a simple fall will not end catastrophically, thus ending any hopes of a successful mission. By the time NASA sent a man to the moon, the suits had 21 layers to ensure the astronaut was as perfectly protected from any unforeseen and possibly tragic situations.

Laureen and John Beyer enjoying Meteor Crater, Arizona

During the mid 1960s to the mid 1970s, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration would utilize the first impact crater recognized on Earth for their astronaut training, gearing up for the Apollo 11 moon landing on July 20, 1969, and follow-up missions.

Mining area and astronaut training grounds, Meteor Crater, Arizona

Colonel Buzz Aldrin, who would become the second person to ever step onto the surface of the closest celestial neighbor, may have been grateful for that tumble he had taken within the confines of Meteor Crater, way back on Earth in Arizona.

Meteor Crater, 44 miles east of Flagstaff, Arizona, is now a mecca for those who are interested in not only space but also what sometimes falls from space.

Early geologists believed the three-quarters-of-a-mile-wide by nearly 600 feet deep crater was the result of an ancient volcanic eruption. 

Meteor Crater, Arizona

One man, Daniel Barringer, a mining engineer, saw the crater for himself in 1903 and proposed that the nearly circular crater was caused by a meteor, and not volcanic activity.

Daniel Barringer

The scientific world scoffed, but the stubborn self-made man spent the next 27 years digging in the center of the crater looking for that elusive meteor, along with dozens of skilled workers he hired through the years. He never found the meteor and suffered a massive heart attack on November 30, 1929.

Neither the engineer nor his contemporaries understood that when a meteor enters Earth’s atmosphere, nearly 90% of its mass is burned off by the friction of speeding at 26,000 miles per hour, as was the case with the meteor striking the Arizona High Desert. Thus, this meteor was only 

Dig as he might, Barringer was never going to find a large meteor, only tiny shards that were blasted all over the surrounding desert for miles. 

Viewing window looking toward Flagstaff to the northwest

It would take four more decades before planetary scientist Eugene Shoemaker told the world that Mr. Barringer had been correct.

Shoemaker studied the crater sides and floor, and compared them to craters left after atomic bomb detonations. He referred to ‘shocked rocks’ and microscopic high-pressure minerals like coesite that had been pulverized by a hyper-velocity impact.

Just like Barriniger had once theorized.

Meteor Crater is only 50,000 years old, relatively young compared to the North Pole Dome Impact Crater, which could date back three billion years. Or the most famous one, the Chicxulub, which plummeted into the Yucatan Peninsula 66 million years ago, killing off nearly 75% of life on Earth, including the dinosaurs.  

Nevertheless, Daniel Barringer will forever go down in history as the man who first recognized a meteor impact crater on Earth.

And that is a pretty huge legacy.

John R. Beyer getting ready for next mission

John can be contacted at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

For further information: https://meteorcrater.com/

A Truly Hidden Abode, Walnut Canyon Monument

Walnut Canyon, Arizona

One of the best rewards while traveling is stumbling upon something or somewhere totally unexpected. It’s like trying out a new recipe and accidentally adding a wrong ingredient, but the dish actually tastes better than expected.

I’m not sure if that is a great analogy, but bear with me.

Having traveled east and west along Interstate 40 for years, I thought I had seen it all.

But one state always surprises me with new treasures.

And that one state is Arizona. 

Along Interstate 40, there are exciting destinations such as Flagstaff, Williams, and Winslow, just to name a few. There is the gateway to the Grand Canyon, Meteor Crater, Grand Canyon Caverns, and one that I have read the highway sign for but never visited: Walnut Canyon Monument, just ten miles east of Flagstaff.

I decided to stop and check out what the hubbub was with this particular monument.

On my travels, I have been to both National Parks and National Monuments, so what was the difference?

A National Park is usually a very large area that protects the ecosystem and natural scenery, and offers diverse recreational activities for the public. This has to be set aside by an act of Congress.

Examples would be Yellowstone in Wyoming or the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

A National Monument, on the other hand, is created by a presidential order (or can be an act of Congress). A monument generally preserves a specific object, structure, or natural feature of historical value.

Examples would be the Devil’s Tower in Wyoming or the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, D.C.

Well, it was time to visit this Walnut Canyon National Monument.

The short drive from Interstate 40 to the monument is beautiful, with tall green Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Fir lining the entrance. Being situated at nearly 6,700 feet above sea level, the variety of other trees and foliage is something to truly marvel at. And, if lucky, the traveler may catch sight of an elk or a mule deer. Soaring through the treetops, raptors may be viewed hunting for prey. 

Looking out toward Walnut Canyon from the visitor's center

The visitor center is situated on a sheer cliff overlooking Walnut Canyon, and the view out of the massive glass windows is nothing short of marvelous.

If the center had a bar serving an adult beverage, I may have sat there all day staring out at all the natural beauty. But, alas, they did not, and I wandered off to see what there was to see.

An ancient people known as the Sinagua lived in this canyon, as well as others in the immediate locale and other locations throughout Arizona from 1125 to approximately 1250 AD.

Sinagua is Spanish for ‘without water’. Even though there were plenty of trees and bushes, this area of Arizona lacks a substantial amount of rainfall each year and is subject to long droughts. But the Sinagua people were masters at water conservation, gathering and taking advantage of the small creek at the bottom of the canyon, which is seasonal but did provide the water needed for the settlement of Native Americans.

The canyon floor is nearly 350 feet below the cliff edge of the canyon, and at the bottom are forests of Walnut trees, thus the name of the monument.

Creativity was the key in living at Walnut Canyon

These trees, as well as other varieties, offered the Sinagua a healthy diet of walnuts, acorns, and pinyon nuts. They also gathered grapes and elderberries, as well as growing their own corn and beans on the vistas of the canyon. And they hunted for food and skins with the multitudes of Bighorn Sheep, deer, and antelope that lived in the vicinity. 

These folks were also believed to be traders with not only other local tribes but as far away as Central America. They were masters at handcrafted straw baskets, pottery, and clothing made from animal skins. 

Evidence of the distance they traveled to trade was found by early archaeologists, who found examples of seashells from the Pacific Ocean, turquoise from Santa Fe, and even colorful macaw feathers from Mexico and Central America.

One of many family dwellings of the Sinagua

But the most interesting part of this national monument is how the natives resided. There were no tents, no wooden buildings, but carved-out abodes within the limestone cliffs themselves.

Over millennia, water pounded the limestone, carving large caverns into the rock faces.

It was in these sheltered cliff dwellings that the Sinagua made their homes. The individual rooms were not large but could easily fit a family in the countless structures that can be seen today in Walnut Canyon.

They used natural stone to build walls separating one family from another, and doorways were small for both protection and comfort during all four seasons. Even smaller openings were placed toward the roof of the overhanging rock as a way to allow the smoke from the cooking or heating fires inside the rooms to escape outside, thus not causing a smoke buildup within.

Notice the small opening above the door to allow the smoke to escape

With this information gleaned from the visitors center, it was time to take the one-mile hiking loop around the canyon and see firsthand the ingenuity of a people who lived here for a short one hundred years and then suddenly left. 

Was it a continued drought? Was it warfare from other tribes? Or was it just time to move on?

There is no real solid evidence of why the Sinagua left the canyon, but there is plenty of evidence learned on the hike that these people used the natural surroundings far better than I bet most modern humans could.

It should be mentioned that the trail around the dwellings is pretty flat and easy, but the bloody stairs leaving from the visitor center down to the trail are not for the weak of heart. There are 368 stairs down to the trail, and that means 368 stairs back up to the center, and at an elevation gain of 185 feet, there may be a moment to take a rest and catch your breath.

The trail is easy, the stairs not so much

But the burning of the lungs is worth it when the traveler wanders the trail and beholds the creative mastery of people who settled in Walnut Canyon over 900 years ago.

For more information: https://www.nps.gov/waca/index.htm

John can be reached at beyersbyways@gmail.com