St. Patrick's Day

Today, we want to celebrate St. Patrick's Day - a holiday that's near and dear to our hearts, as we both have Irish heritage.

Welcome to Dublin, Ireland

St. Patrick's Day is a time to celebrate all things Irish, from traditional foods like corned beef and cabbage to festive decorations in shades of green and gold. But for us, it's also a time to reflect on the rich history and culture of Ireland - and to explore the country itself.

Laureen and John onboard and on the North Sea - exploring

One of the highlights of our travels in Ireland was visiting the ancient ruins of the Rock of Cashel - a sprawling complex of stone buildings perched on a hilltop in County Tipperary. As we wandered through the ruins, we were struck by the sheer scale of the structures and the intricacy of the carvings and designs that adorned them.

Laureen in front of an ancient metal gate

But it wasn't just the buildings themselves that captivated us - it was the stories behind them. From the legends of Irish kings and queens to the struggles of the Irish people under British rule, every stone at the Rock of Cashel seemed to hold a tale waiting to be told.

And of course, no discussion of Ireland would be complete without mentioning the country's literary heritage. From James Joyce to W.B. Yeats, Ireland has produced some of the greatest writers in the English language - and exploring their works is a journey in itself.

A great pub to sit and discuss the Literary Giants of Ireland

So as we celebrate St. Patrick's Day this year, we're reminded of the rich history and culture of Ireland - and of the incredible adventures we've had exploring the country. Whether you're Irish or not, we hope this holiday inspires you to learn more about the Emerald Isle and all it has to offer. 

John exploring one of the many ancient sites visited in Ireland

St. Patrick's Day

 Laureen waiting for St. Patty's Day on the Isle of the Green

Holidays are generally times for fun and frivolity - what a great word -  (noun) the trait of being frivolous; not serious or sensible.

Definitely frivolity - or just bad dancing

Not sure that is what we are going to discuss here about Saint Patrick's Day being a frivolous day to celebrate, but through the centuries it has turned to a day of green beer and shenanigans  - oh, that's another good one - (noun) mischief; prankishness.

Shenanigans - no doubt

No, this wonderfully festive holiday is to honor a saint of the Catholic Church.  A young lad, this is how many of these stories start, born in Britain during the Roman occupation of the fifth century who was kidnapped and brought to Ireland at the age of 16.

The lad, Maewyn Succat, who came from a successful family - his father was actually a Roman- British army officer - was kidnapped from Britain and transported to Ireland as a slave by the Picts.

The Picts may have been early Celts who wandered for a long while fighting various factions in the British Kingdoms but never were able to stage a stronghold for their tattooed warriors and were always on the march looking for gentler lands. It is believed they originated from Scotland.

A Pict warrior - scary!

With the presence of the Romans and later the Vikings, these homelands never really became a reality for the Picts who basically just wandered about from here to there - mainly there.

But we digress.

This is about Maewyn Succat who later became Patrick when he became a priest in the Catholic Church. After being kidnapped, he served as a shepherd for the one who enslaved him for six years. But then a miraculous thing happened, it usually does when one is destined to become a saint - can't have a regular thing happen since that wouldn't spark much of an interest from anyone actually. God appeared to Maewyn in either a voice or a dream - depends on the research - telling him that if he made his way to the coast of Ireland, a boat would take him to freedom. It should be noted that he had become closer to God as he tended the sheep and that is the reason for the visit from God.

After the vision, Patrick hot-footed it to the coast from County Mayo (where it is believed he had been held) and yes, a boat was waiting and off he sailed to freedom back to England and then he traveled on to France. He studied his faith under the guidance of St. Germain who was the bishop of Auxerre. After completing twelve years of training, Patrick - as was now called after accepting his vocation - knew that Ireland was where he was supposed to be to spread the word of his church. The pagans who had imprisoned him needed to hear the word of God and no matter the danger - an escaped slave risked bring killed on sight - Patrick headed back into hostile territory.

He had a mission to return to Ireland

One problem with the above was there were a lot of Catholics already residing in Ireland when Patrick returned but there were also more non-Christians, who were his main focus. Knowing the Irish as well as he did, Patrick realized the way to the hearts of these people wasn't discounting the way they worshiped but to incorporate traditions they already had. One example was the bonfire the locals used on Easter to honor the pagan gods with fire. Patrick used this to show a sun superimposed upon a cross thus giving the Irish their own special cross called the Celtic cross.

Celtic Cross as St. Patrick envisioned it

Patrick remained in Ireland for twenty years converting and obtaining fellow missionaries to follow in his footsteps. He gave gifts to the people, including nobility, but never accepted one in return. His whole purpose was spreading the word of God to the Irish and establishing dozens of monasteries within the boundaries of the island of Ireland.

On March 17, 461, in Saul, Downpatrick, Ireland, Patrick died, and thus the reason for the celebration of his life every March 17th.

He had written a book in his later years as an autobiography, explaining his life and the path he had chosen to travel. It is entitled Confessio. The title makes perfectly good sense considering he was a Catholic priest and the whole confession thing.

So, with the more secular holiday St. Patrick's Day has become - it was once only celebrated by Catholics - with shamrocks, leprechauns, Celtic fairies and the like it should be remembered that a real man with a real mission in life lived and died.

A Guinness - St. Patty would be proud

He had a dream from God to return to a place that had kept him a prisoner for the sole purpose of saving their souls. Yes, a play on words.

Anyway - Happy St. Patrick's Day from J and L!

After celebrating St. Patty's Day - a nap is needed sometimes

Taking a Leap

February 30th.

Wait...February 30th?

Yes, once upon a time. Well, twice upon a time to be precise, there really was a February 30th. I suppose we could call that a Double Leap Year.

But we're getting ahead of ourselves here. Let's start with this year. Why exactly do we have leap years and what are the traditions and superstitions surrounding them? (Then back to February 30th, of course, don't worry.)

Well, you've probably heard the old Irish legend, or who knows, maybe it's true, as some legends are at least loosely based on fact, and if you're Irish, and near a pub, (if you're truly Irish, you are definitely near a pub) legends and history frequently get a bit, shall we say, blurred....wait, where was I going with this? Oh, yes. You've probably heard that St. Brigid struck a deal with St Patrick to allow women to propose to men during leap year, as a way to kind of counterbalance the traditional roles of women in society, much as leap year balances the calendar. Clever the way that works out. Oh, never underestimate an Irish lass.

Well, in some European countries the leap day tradition became Bachelors' Day. -- and a man was expected to pay a penalty, by law, if he refused a marriage proposal. Ouch! This could be a gown or fee, or 12 pairs of gloves -- to hide the shame of not having a ring.

The Greeks were not feeling as romantic as the rest of their European cousins. They believed it was unlucky for couples to marry during a leap year and especially on leap day.

However, their Mediterranean neighbors in Italy believe that leap years favor the whales. And making whale babies. Now, who doesn't love whales?

And the Scots believe that Leap Day is as unlucky as Friday the 13th. It's not good for people or sheep. Sheep? Baaad. St. Oswald might agree. Leap Day is named St. Oswald's day, because the archbishop of York died on February 29.

And J and L? What are our feelings, superstitions, traditions about leap day? One more day to celebrate life with family. Living each day to its fullest.

So about February 30th.

It seems the Swedes made an error a number of years back and decided to add a few days in 1712 to correct the error - hence February 30th.

And, in what was once called the Soviet Union, February 30th happened twice: in 1930 and 1931, after the Soviets established the revolutionary calendar. Every week had five days, every month had 30 days and the remaining five or six 'monthless' days were holidays. Well, at least there were holidays. Who knew?

But generally, the date is generally sarcastically used to refer to something that is never going to happen, like winning the lottery. Which I expect to do on February 30th. But you never know...this could be my lucky year!

Yule Go a-Viking

Hmmm, who would win?

A vastly misunderstood people, Vikings are often characterized as mere savages. Even the term ‘Viking’ comes from the Scandinavian ‘vikingr’ meaning pirate – so you can certainly see the parallel. But this term refers more to the time in summer when Scandinavian men would go ‘a -Viking’ and head out on a oversea expedition with the goal of trade or to work as foreign mercenaries. And, well, let’s be honest, there was quite a bit of plundered treasure, and a number of slaves brought back to the homeland for the winter, so we can only defend the characterization so much. 

Dublin - site of a Viking settlement

The Vikings were a sea-faring culture who thrived from the late 8th century through the early 11th century, establishing quite a legacy for themselves. They discovered the Americas centuries before Columbus was born and explored as far east as Russia. Honing their ship-building skills for more than ten centuries, they constructed everything from small fishing boats, to large cargo vessels (to carry all that treasure), and lightning fast longships, all of which were narrow with short drafts, making them well-adapted for use in rivers as well as on the ocean. The Vikings invented the keel, and though their boats were technological marvels, they paid as much attention to the art as they did the craft of the construction of their vessels. The dragon-head on the front of the Viking vessel, designed to keep away evil spirits, struck fear into the hearts of Europeans for centuries.

Viking town in Dublin 1014

The Scandinavian geography had a significant impact on the development of the Viking culture. The difficult location and terrain meant that, for the most part the Vikings were tribal; there was no unified Viking army. When they weren’t a-Viking, they maintained homes with their wives as farmers. The growing season was short and resources were scare, so most Vikings were actually smaller in musculature and stature than many of their contemporaries. 

So, what can modern man learn from the Vikings? Well, not to supplement your income by raiding; there is a limited amount of other people’s treasure – and it doesn’t make friends. No, in this season of giving, let us be generous to our Scandinavian ancestors and see what we can learn from the way they lived, a thousand years ago.

Lassies love a man who treats them with dignity and respect.

First, view, and treat women with dignity and respect, if not outright equality. There is evidence to suggest to Vikings fought beside their wives, sisters, and both sons and daughters. Evidence suggests that they trusted each other to take responsibility for leadership roles, and although there were indeed gender-specific roles (men went a-Viking, while women tended the children, home and farms), men and women often worked together on tasks. In the pantheon of Norse gods and goddesses, there is also quite an equitable distribution of power.

And speaking of faith…the Vikings were a very faithful people. Whether it was a commitment to a particular god or to the pantheon, life and activities were built around these beliefs. As Vikings encountered individuals of other faiths, this led many to a curiosity and later an adoption of a new belief in Christianity.

John with one of his Viking comrades

But the Viking man does this, without sacrificing what it is to be a man. The Viking Ideal man is still Alpha, yet in touch with art and emotion. Strong and sensitive? Sounds just about perfect.

Finally, the Viking loves to travel, to explore, to meet new people, and develop new relationships. We at J and L especially applaud this Viking attribute. We all benefit from the open-minded, open-heartedness we inherit from our Scandinavian forbearers. Especially in this age of partisanship, we can appreciate the Viking ability to survive and thrive as a culture for centuries despite their differences, traveling throughout the world, into the unknown, discovering people and places not even imagined, and managing to cultivate a kindred spirit. Enough that more than a thousand years later, we are still fascinated by them. 

A thousand years ago, the Vikings gathered in middle of January and celebrated Jol – or Yule. They exchanged gifts, and drank beer, toasted the gods, thanking them for the gifts of the past year as they welcomed the new. As you enter your yuletide celebrations, may we ask that you raise your glass, and join us at J and L as we toast the Vikings? 

Yuletide Greetings!

Viking

Aye, my Lassie - that is a Viking

When J and L spent a month in Ireland a few seasons back, we were surprised and impressed to learn that near the confluence of the Rivers Poddle and Liffey, in the capital city of Dublin, there once stood Viking settlement dating back to the 9th Century.

Who’d have thunk it?

Artists rendering of a Viking Irish settlement

The Vikings in Ireland – the land of a thousand welcomes.

Some of the known Viking settlements in Ireland

This called for some research and what better place to start than the Annals of Ulster. These recordings of events year by year were started in the 6th Century and continued until approximately 1540. They are the story, mostly verbatim of medieval Ireland. A treasure trove of facts and figures depicting what went on during those centuries in Ireland. One, and only one issue is that stories that are written in the Annals of Ulster date back to about 431 A.D. So, a bit of a consternation for the researcher is that prior to the 6th Century nothing was written down immediately but left to recollections and stories passed down by the generations.

A page from the Annals of Ulster

It is this area which some of the history may be a bit sketchy –  as in not a hundred percent certain of the facts. Needless to say historians as well as just the good old everyday Irish person loves these annals since it spells out the marvelous, if often dark, history of this island nation.

The facts down and dirty

The annals are written in the Irish pr Gaelic, as well as in Latin. That fact has sent shivers of joy up the spine of linguists as they study the evolution of the country’s language.

Well, it is mentioned in the annals that the Vikings arrived around 795 as the warriors set out to rob and pillage Gaelic Irish coastal settlements. As the raids continued, the raiding parties grew to the point that a settlement needed to be built so they could live and pillage further inland on the island.
Those Vikings – they just loved their pillaging.

Who wouldn't want to plunder and get these riches?

In order to establish the safety of their settlement, the Vikings built a ‘longphort’ or simply, a ship enclosure or fortified naval encampment. It was here, in modern day Dublin that the first one was built in 841 near what is now Parliament Street in Temple Bar West – not far from the Dublin Castle.

It is a fascinating area to walk around in the city. Modern structures towering all about and then the remnants of a Viking longphort literally beneath your feet. At the National Museum of Ireland there are exhibits after exhibits exploring the history of the Vikings and their contributions to Ireland. Not only were they ruthless warriors but actually helped settle parts of Ireland and became good stewards on the land.

Where a Viking 'longphort' once stood in Dublin

That is saying a lot from what is generally thought of the Vikings.

There is, according to the annals, a chance that the Viking warlord Amlaib, also known as Olaf the White, made Dublin the capital city of his territory in 853 and pronounced himself King.  He jointly ruled the area for fifteen years with his brothers Imar – Ivar the Boneless (yes, the same character portrayed on the History Channel in the series The Vikings) and Auisle. The brothers used Dublin as the center to conduct military action against the Kings all over Ireland.

Alex Hogh Anderson playing Ivar the Boneless - son of Ragnar 

The Irish had had enough and in 902, the Irish Kings of Brega, Leinster used a military tactic known as a two-pronged attack on Dublin successfully driving the Vikings back into the sea. But a short twelve years later the Vikings returned and started the Second Viking Age on the island.

Can’t keep a good (or bad) Viking down for long.

John with one of his Viking friends.

So, a visit to Ireland not only brings great food, wonderful company, delicious beer in cozy pubs but the chance of walking where famous Vikings once trod. It is a country full of surprises and as J and L found out that there doesn’t seem enough time in a person’s lifetime to learn all that the Emerald Isle holds in the world of history.

And there are always the pubs - that is enough sometimes.

Camping in Ireland

The American born author, Marianne Williamson, once wrote: ‘We may have bad weather in Ireland, but the sun shines in the hearts of the people and that keeps us all warm.’

 Nothing could be more true once a person spends time on the Emerald Isle and experiences firsthand a deluge from above which can chill to the bone but seems to dry instantly once they step into a pub. The smiling faces of the locals warms the heart and the welcoming conversations eases the discomfort of a rainy day.

That's how to warm up in a pub

Sunny afternoon and ready to set up camp

As we spent a month camping across Ireland it became apparent that Williamson knew a thing or two about the people of Ireland. Spending time tenting, cooking, and just socializing with fellow campers made us realize what a delight the Irish were.

Being of Irish ancestry, we both knew that we ourselves were a delight but meeting other delightful people only made the trip more delightful. 

 

Maybe not that delightful

 

Done and done for the evening

Huh?

A comfort of green grass better than a mattress - almost!

Back to the point – camping in Ireland is wonderfully rewarding with soft green grass to set up tents (pitching), cozy communal kitchens with fireplaces (because it rains a lot), large spacious restrooms with showers (one had over twenty separate shower stalls), laundry facilities, and close proximity to all the sight seeing any explorer could desire. The prices are reasonable – anywhere from twenty to sixty dollars per night which is relative to the United States considering all the amenities offered at the Caravan and Camping Parks. With large open lots with room enough for trailers, self-contained motorhomes and of course tents – which we used on our Ireland adventure, the parks offer any camper a chance to relax in style.

More than enough room for everyone no matter the style

 And generally cheaper than hotels.

The friends you may encounter while pitching

Though with camping there is more of a chance actually sitting in the evening with fellow travelers and discovering a lot about them and yourselves. Everyone we came into contact with were extremely friendly and had stories to tell – all Irish have stories to tell – and some are truthful.

At one camping park Laureen and John ran into a mother and daughter who were from England and were spending two months in Ireland moving from park to park to get a real feel of the country. A glass of wine or two in the cozy and fire warmed dining area – it had been raining hard which brought the temperature down quite a bit making the wood stove a welcome respite to enjoy swapping tales. From Ireland they were headed to Africa for a six month journey on their own. No detailed itinerary but simply a lust for adventure and new experiences.

Another pitching park, a young couple and their children were enjoying the grassy knolls and the wooded glens which contained narrow hiking paths. It was their holiday and from living in Dublin, the countryside was just what they wanted. The weather was warm and sunny which made this family take advantage of the outdoors.

What lies beyond in the glen?

 One evening around ten-thirty while sitting enjoying a refreshing glass of spirits we found ourselves camped on a high open area with a view of an amazing bay. A few houses sprinkled the hillsides near us while fishing boats bobbed up and down in the dark blue waters beneath us. Idyllic especially with the clear night sky giving us such views of the northern stars. Suddenly our peaceful serenity was broken by a man walking by on his way home from a local pub, the camp was in a small and quiet village. He stopped, tipped his hat and said good evening. We responded in kind and he laughed and pointed to the cloudless heavens.

“It’s going to rain you should be knowing?”

John smiled in return and gestured to Laureen that the man had had one too many pints at the local watering hole.

The clouds moved in around one a.m. and at least three-quarters of an inch of rain fell on top of our tent soaking everything – especially us.

Three hours later a deluge leaving everything soaking!

 With a laugh and dry clothes the next morning we headed to a nearby hotel where we set up our tent in our room to dry out. Always did wonder what the hotel maid must have thought over that scene – a king sized bed with a tent next to it?

Bloody tourists!

Again, to camp in Ireland is a great eye opening experiences that we would recommend to anyone with a mind to follow the example of thousands who do it yearly. 

Jack Nicholson once said: “I’m Irish. I think about death all the time.” Not to disagree with such a remarkable talent but perhaps if he would take the time to camp in his home country the quote may change to: “I’m Irish. There’s nothing better than pitching a tent in a quiet glen and rejoicing that I am alive.”

Hey Nicholson - relax and dream of life and not death  - huh?

For further information:

www.eurocampings.co.uk/ireland

www.totalcampingireland.ie/

www.camping-ireland.ie/

The End?

As with all things with a beginning, there is also an ending. This is one of those moments for J and L Research and Exploration - it is time to bid a fond adieu.

With over four years writing about our exploits locally and abroad we have decided to hang up the keyboard and pursue other adventures. Of course, it did take a little arm twisting from being one of the winners of the California Superlotto - okay there was no wrangling of our appendages to make this decision.


With John's third novel, 'Iquitos - the Past can Kill' (working title) and his fourth set in Europe for 'Vlad - The Last Crusader' it was decided to relocate to a home we purchased in Ireland for the chance to write and relax. The small village of Bray on the east coast is not more than 12 miles from Dublin with a population of nearly 32,000, and seems the most logical place to reside. Cool ocean breezes, thick green hills (bre means hill in Gaelic), and just large enough to be comfortable in with lots of pubs to sit and tip a few Guinness with the locals. Of course, with Dublin so nearby there will not be a chance to miss the nightlife on those occasions when being in a large city is called for.

Seemed like the correct apparel at time of signing deed

The house, or more like a small castle (doesn't everyone want to live in a castle) is located on a high point west of the city center and is nestled on nearly five acres of treed land.

A nearby ancient, probably 13th century fortified tower house also occupies the property but is in pretty bad shape but nothing a few years won't bring back to life with the assistance of a local stone mason who has looked at the tower and deems it salvageable. So, just on this small plot of land in the Irish countryside there is plenty of research and exploration to be had.

Needs work - a stone mason or two

Roots - important part of life.

Perhaps, in time we will again enter the realm of the blogger sphere with more tales of Ireland - but then again who knows?

At this point we are busy selling homes, reducing household goods, getting the puppies their shots and correct paperwork for the journey to the Emerald Isle and saying farewell to friends and family in California and across this great land.

We will always be Americans at heart but for the foreseeable future we will be ex-pats living in the land of our roots - Ireland.