Daggett - Worth a visit

 

Original Blacksmith shop in Daggett, Ca

According to Mark Staggs, President of the Daggett Community Service District, the small town of Daggett has big plans.

“We have big plans,” Staggs stated.

I have always had a soft spot for this little berg, ten miles east of Barstow on Interstate 40. I used the town of Daggett for one of my novels, Operation Scorpion. I spent some time there, doing research for the fictional piece, and met some really nice folks. 

But, since the publication, I haven’t been back. Sure, I drive by quite often, on my way to here and there along the interstate, but I rarely stop.

So, when I heard Staggs was giving a historical tour of the town, I knew it was time to revisit and learn more about the history of the town.

Staggs is a nice guy – truly nice. He immediately made our little group of tourists feel right at home. He is one of those fellas who likes to tell a joke, while being serious about the history of the town he truly loves.

“The history of Daggett isn’t known by a lot of tourists, but we are in the works to change that,” he shared.

Those are the big plans Staggs had mentioned earlier while conducting a fascinating tour of the Daggett Museum.

Old downtown of Daggett

For many, Daggett is not known at all. A dot on a map between Barstow and Needles along the black ribbon of a busy interstate. But back in 1939, with the publication of John Steinbeck’s novel, Grapes of Wrath, the small town got a mention. When the Joad family, from Oklahoma, drove through the inspection station just east of town, those refugees from the Dust Bowl had officially arrived in California.

According to the Daggett Historical Society, the town was founded in the 1860s, but did not become known as Daggett until 1883. At this time, the mines were running full steam in the nearby Calico Hills. The residents realized having the mining town of Calico near Calico Junction may be a bit confusing – so, the folks decided that the name Daggett may fit the bill, using the last name of then Lieutenant Governor of California, John Daggett. 

It is rumored, and don’t we all love rumors, that the Lieutenant Governor had visited Daggett at some time. 

Well, here’s something of note about Daggett which isn’t a rumor. Helen Muir, the daughter of the famous naturalist, John Muir, resided in Daggett. She was instrumental in assisting her father with his writings and correspondence, but being in poor health, the family moved her from northern California to the warmer climate of Daggett. 

Other visitors to Daggett during its heyday included Walter E. Scott – better known as Death Valley Scotty, Francis Marion Smith – better known as the Borax King, Tom Mix – better known as Silver Screen Cowboy, and Wyatt Earp – better known as ‘I get around the West a lot.’

There is a lot of history in this town.

One of the original water towers

After the museum tour, Staggs offered a hands-on tour of the area.

Actually, it wasn’t exactly hands-on, but more of a drive-by and get out of your vehicle sort of visit to the numerous historical sites in and around Daggett.

According to Staggs, there were quite a few indigenous peoples who had lived in the area, long before the settlers arrived looking for rich minerals or good lands for farming and grazing.

“People have been living here for thousands of years,” he stated. “In fact, the Vanyume, or Desert Serrano were some of the Native Americans first encountered by the Catholic missionaries in the late eighteenth century.”

As to point this out, Staggs had us drive approximately a mile or so to the north of Daggett, where, behind a tall chain link fence, was a huge pile of dark colored rock. Upon those rocks were dozens of petroglyphs. 

“We’re not really sure who created these glyphs, but we know they are hundreds of years old.” 

“I know they’re at least older than nineteen-forty-seven,” I replied. “Some local carved his name and date on one of the rocks.”

Staggs nodded. “And, thus the reason for the fencing.”

The town of Daggett kept growing as more and more silver was being mined out of the ground in Calico. The ore was shipped to Daggett, where it awaited a mill with ten heavy stamps, ready to start breaking up the ore and releasing the precious metals.

In fact, there was so much ore being ground up in Daggett that property values started rapidly increasing. So, when the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe (ATSF) railway were contemplating a location to build a heavy rail yard, the company decided on a small place named Barstow, since the land in Daggett was too expensive.

Daggett continued to prosper and became a populated and happening town. At its peak in the late 1890s, it had three stores, two restaurants, three saloons, three hotels, a lumberyard, and many other establishments which would interest miners, visitors and locals.

I followed Staggs to where remains of the Columbia stamp mill can still be seen. A large structure, nestled next to a hill, and when looking northeast, the viewer can easily see the ghost town of Calico.

“They used wagons pulled by mules to bring the ore from Calico to here for crushing,” Staggs explained.

Original wagon used in the early days in Daggett

It could take sometimes two days to reach Daggett for milling, depending the amount of ore being towed in the wagons behind the mules. That's a long time for a mere seven miles.

“Let’s speed up, Roger,” one drover may have been heard yelling at his partner on another ore wagon.

“We’re going as fast as we can,” Roger may have replied. “Ole, Bessy is moseying at her top speed.”

As it usually occurs with mining camps, the silver or gold ore eventually runs out. This was the case for Calico – once a rich and rowdy mining camp, it soon turned into a deserted dwelling. And in the late 1890s, the population of Calico dwindled until it became a ghost town.

But one of the by-products which was found while mining in Calico was the substance, Borax.

Turns out, Borax had many uses which made being human even more enjoyable. It can be used in toothpaste and as a laundry additive. It can be used for acne cure, skin creams, and lotions. It can be used for paints and ceramic glaze. But, most importantly, it can be used for making slime for kids.

This product was a wonder find.

So, in 1891, Francis Marion Smith – the Borax King - moved to Daggett from Death Valley and installed mining operations at the Borate mine, a few miles east of Calico. It was such a successful venture that in 1898, the Borate and Daggett Railroad was built to move the Borax to Daggett, which was easier and cheaper than the twenty mule team wagons which were being used.

Unfortunately, in 1911, richer Borax finds were located back in Death Valley, and the Borax King left.

The population and economy of Daggett soon decreased through the years, to its present day figure of two hundred citizens.

Lawrence Vintus, a member of the Daggett Historical Society and employee of the Community Services District, believes there is a rebound coming for the town in which he was born and raised.

This is a pretty ambitious belief for a young man who graduated high school in 2020. His love of Daggett is evident in every word he uses when discussing his hometown.

“We’re going to make this town a tourist destination,” Vintus announced, while showing the tour group around Alf’s blacksmith shop, built in the late 1800s. His family has owned the property, where the shop is located, for decades – a lot of decades.

Some of the treasures inside the blacksmith shop

As I walked through the tall dusty wooden doors into the interior of the blacksmith shop, I felt as if I had just walked back in time. Tools, from the late 1890s were lined up everywhere around the shop. It was though the blacksmith had just left for an afternoon break.

“This is how my grandfather left it for us,” Vintus said. “Now we want to share it with everyone.”

Staggs nodded. “Mugwumps is being renovated as a visitor’s center, with a restaurant, gift shop, and a place tourists can visit to understand the importance Daggett.”

Standing there, in the blacksmith’s shop, looking at these two men, it was hard to imagine they would fail at their dream of making Daggett a must go place to see. 

When I wrote my novel, I used Daggett as a place for the protagonist. There was a reason he had to go there. There was a reason I had to write about it. And, now it is a place for all with a love of history should venture to.

Enjoy the unexpected at Christmas

 

The Christmas Season is rapidly approaching with lighting speed. Time to get out and shop, or more likely, to sit on the sofa and order online.

It is still 2020, after all. And remember, no more than zero guests are allowed for any planned holiday festivities. In fact, rumor has it that a new guideline may be out about soon which will outlaw eating alone, so you don’t spread COVID-19 to yourself.

Which brings me to a point I want to share.

One of the most thoughtful and handsome characters is that Yuletide favorite, the Grinch. He who cares so much for the townsfolk of Whoville, that he takes away all their gifts. It’s a teachable moment for those residing in that whacky little town, and the Grinch wants to show them that gifts are not what makes the season. It is what is in the heart that truly matters.

Let me dare – I must, I must – to share what the Grinch is thinking when he looks down at the citizens of Whoville, and sees everyone happy, smiling, and singing (frowned upon now), even though he had snatched all their gifts, including the Christmas trees.

‘Maybe Christmas, he thought, doesn’t come from a store. Maybe Christmas, perhaps, means a little bit more.’

                            Probably, the nicest guy during the Christmas Holidays!

A gift is fine, but a smile, or nod behind a mask may mean more. Someone offering you their parking spot at the mall may mean more. Holding a door open for a stranger may mean more. Tipping a bit higher than usual at an outdoor eating establishment (aren’t they all now?), may mean more. In other words, being polite to each other may mean more.

A gift is fine, but giving or receiving isn’t just about pretty packages wrapped up tightly with ribbons or bows – or arriving in a light brown Amazon box.

It’s those unexpected moments and experiences that truly warm the heart.

What is the point of this article? A moral lesson of the true meaning of Christmas? Nope, but just a gentle reminder that sometimes the best gifts are not always expected, or perhaps not even thought of as gifts.

For example – and yes, we are getting to the article now -- Laureen and I planned a fifteen-mile off-road trip across Christmas Tree Pass in Nevada. It’s an easy off-paved road drive, but you don’t really need a four-wheel drive vehicle, if you keep abreast of weather reports. Being just northwest of Laughlin, the weather is pretty predictable: it will be clear and dry the majority of the year.

The pass is between Nevada Highway 163 and US Highway 93. It wriggle-waggles through some very picturesque scenery in the Newberry Mountains, with views of the Colorado River valley to the east.

Why is it called Christmas Tree Pass? Well, it is a pass through the mountains, but as far as Christmas trees – not so much.

There are lots of tall Juniper bushes, which from a distance, sort of look like Christmas trees. But when pulling up to one, nope, it’s a Juniper bush. Now, some clever people have decided to decorate the bushes with tinsel, ornaments, and such – so, that’s why the pass is known as the Christmas Tree Pass. It’s sort of a kitschy thing to do, drive by a Juniper bush and disguise it as a Christmas tree. No one will notice the difference – that’s the kitschy part.

We drove in from the Highway 163, south of Searchlight, and headed out on the pass toward Highway 93 and Laughlin.

“Looks like a Christmas tree,” Laureen stated, as we drove down a rather steep incline, and saw the first decorated bush.

“It’s a Juniper bush,” I replied. “Where’s the Blue Spruce, or the Noble Fir trees?”

“You know your trees.” She was stating the obvious.

“Not even a Concolor Fir, to be seen,” I replied. Yeah, I know my trees.

Nothing but Juniper bushes pretending to be Christmas trees. Imposters, all of them.

 

An imposter Juniper, disguised as a Christmas Tree

We continued down the dirt road, taking a photo here and there of some pretty amazing rock formations.

“Well, at least it’s a pretty drive.”

I nodded. “Would have nice to see a Christmas tree, since that’s how it is advertised.” Fake news.

And, here comes the part of the joy of an unexpected gift.

About two miles or so from the end of the pass road, we came upon a sign pointing down another dirt road to the west - Grapevine Canyon, Spirit Mountain.

“And what do we have here?” I asked.

Turns out, there is a trail heading into Grapevine Canyon in Spirit Mountain contains over seven hundred petroglyphs. These drawings were created by Native Americans between the years of 1100 and 1900 AD.

The number and intricacy of the designs are so impressive, that the area is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is one of the most pristine areas in which to view such petroglyphs, and also rock shelters used by the artists.

The hike was only a quarter of mile across a dry, sandy riverbed and is easily accessible for pretty much anyone. And as the trail narrows on the approach to the canyon, the first sight of the dozens and dozens of petroglyphs is amazing.

                                 The wonderful art of a hunting party.

                                       Laureen pointing out some of her favorite glyphs

Since the time span was so long, no one is certain who carved the petroglyphs exactly. According to many sources, the Mojave tribe may be the one responsible for most of the drawings. Though, the area is considered sacred – thus the name Spirit Mountain – or Avi Kwa’ Ame (pronounced as it spelled), by those tribes who spoke Yuman or Numic dialogues. These would include, but not be limited to the Mojave, the Hualapai, and the Maricopa tribes.

The area is actually considered the center of creation for all those tribes who speak Yuman or Numic. It is a sacred locale which is listed as a Traditional Cultural Property – this would be areas that are connected through traditional religious or cultural importance to specific groups, Native Americans, being only one such group.

As we walked through the canyon, marveling at the beauty of the glyphs (that’s what we researchers refer to petroglyphs as), there was sense of awe just standing there. Being in the presence of messages written so long ago, reminded me that we were in a very special place indeed.

  These are ancient peoples, or aliens visiting the desert

There were glyphs portraying people hunting, animals hunting, people sitting, animals sitting, animals running, people running, and some Laureen swore looked like aliens with helmets on.

“I must agree,” I stated. “Saw that one on the Discovery Channel, Ancient Aliens series.”

We met a lone traveler, not space alien, as he claimed to be from Montana.

“I’m on a road trip, and read about this place from the app, AllTrails. It’s beautiful, isn’t it?”

I have the same app, but didn’t mention it. Let him believe he was the only one with it, my gift to him. Probably made his day.

Jim, I think that was his name, but it could have been Steve, asked us questions about the place. How old were the drawings? Who made them? And, and so on.

I explained what I knew, and he was impressed. We bade Jim, or Steve a safe journey and explored all the drawings for an hour or more.

A short drive with a great ending.

It’s like that unexpected gift – didn’t know it was coming, but when it did, it was truly appreciated.

As with anywhere, care must be taken not to disturb or destroy these wonderful and priceless memories of past peoples. Go in, look around, take photos, and leave everything as it was.

It is sacred to many people – and should be treated as such.

In 2010, an idiot (can I say that?), decided to use a paintball gun and defaced over thirty petroglyphs. He was caught, spent time in federal prison, and paid ten thousand dollars in restitution. An idiot and criminal too boot. But the damage was done.

I believe, he will always receive coal in his stocking – and rightfully so.