St. Patrick's Day

Today, we want to celebrate St. Patrick's Day - a holiday that's near and dear to our hearts, as we both have Irish heritage.

Welcome to Dublin, Ireland

St. Patrick's Day is a time to celebrate all things Irish, from traditional foods like corned beef and cabbage to festive decorations in shades of green and gold. But for us, it's also a time to reflect on the rich history and culture of Ireland - and to explore the country itself.

Laureen and John onboard and on the North Sea - exploring

One of the highlights of our travels in Ireland was visiting the ancient ruins of the Rock of Cashel - a sprawling complex of stone buildings perched on a hilltop in County Tipperary. As we wandered through the ruins, we were struck by the sheer scale of the structures and the intricacy of the carvings and designs that adorned them.

Laureen in front of an ancient metal gate

But it wasn't just the buildings themselves that captivated us - it was the stories behind them. From the legends of Irish kings and queens to the struggles of the Irish people under British rule, every stone at the Rock of Cashel seemed to hold a tale waiting to be told.

And of course, no discussion of Ireland would be complete without mentioning the country's literary heritage. From James Joyce to W.B. Yeats, Ireland has produced some of the greatest writers in the English language - and exploring their works is a journey in itself.

A great pub to sit and discuss the Literary Giants of Ireland

So as we celebrate St. Patrick's Day this year, we're reminded of the rich history and culture of Ireland - and of the incredible adventures we've had exploring the country. Whether you're Irish or not, we hope this holiday inspires you to learn more about the Emerald Isle and all it has to offer. 

John exploring one of the many ancient sites visited in Ireland

Viking

Aye, my Lassie - that is a Viking

When J and L spent a month in Ireland a few seasons back, we were surprised and impressed to learn that near the confluence of the Rivers Poddle and Liffey, in the capital city of Dublin, there once stood Viking settlement dating back to the 9th Century.

Who’d have thunk it?

Artists rendering of a Viking Irish settlement

The Vikings in Ireland – the land of a thousand welcomes.

Some of the known Viking settlements in Ireland

This called for some research and what better place to start than the Annals of Ulster. These recordings of events year by year were started in the 6th Century and continued until approximately 1540. They are the story, mostly verbatim of medieval Ireland. A treasure trove of facts and figures depicting what went on during those centuries in Ireland. One, and only one issue is that stories that are written in the Annals of Ulster date back to about 431 A.D. So, a bit of a consternation for the researcher is that prior to the 6th Century nothing was written down immediately but left to recollections and stories passed down by the generations.

A page from the Annals of Ulster

It is this area which some of the history may be a bit sketchy –  as in not a hundred percent certain of the facts. Needless to say historians as well as just the good old everyday Irish person loves these annals since it spells out the marvelous, if often dark, history of this island nation.

The facts down and dirty

The annals are written in the Irish pr Gaelic, as well as in Latin. That fact has sent shivers of joy up the spine of linguists as they study the evolution of the country’s language.

Well, it is mentioned in the annals that the Vikings arrived around 795 as the warriors set out to rob and pillage Gaelic Irish coastal settlements. As the raids continued, the raiding parties grew to the point that a settlement needed to be built so they could live and pillage further inland on the island.
Those Vikings – they just loved their pillaging.

Who wouldn't want to plunder and get these riches?

In order to establish the safety of their settlement, the Vikings built a ‘longphort’ or simply, a ship enclosure or fortified naval encampment. It was here, in modern day Dublin that the first one was built in 841 near what is now Parliament Street in Temple Bar West – not far from the Dublin Castle.

It is a fascinating area to walk around in the city. Modern structures towering all about and then the remnants of a Viking longphort literally beneath your feet. At the National Museum of Ireland there are exhibits after exhibits exploring the history of the Vikings and their contributions to Ireland. Not only were they ruthless warriors but actually helped settle parts of Ireland and became good stewards on the land.

Where a Viking 'longphort' once stood in Dublin

That is saying a lot from what is generally thought of the Vikings.

There is, according to the annals, a chance that the Viking warlord Amlaib, also known as Olaf the White, made Dublin the capital city of his territory in 853 and pronounced himself King.  He jointly ruled the area for fifteen years with his brothers Imar – Ivar the Boneless (yes, the same character portrayed on the History Channel in the series The Vikings) and Auisle. The brothers used Dublin as the center to conduct military action against the Kings all over Ireland.

Alex Hogh Anderson playing Ivar the Boneless - son of Ragnar 

The Irish had had enough and in 902, the Irish Kings of Brega, Leinster used a military tactic known as a two-pronged attack on Dublin successfully driving the Vikings back into the sea. But a short twelve years later the Vikings returned and started the Second Viking Age on the island.

Can’t keep a good (or bad) Viking down for long.

John with one of his Viking friends.

So, a visit to Ireland not only brings great food, wonderful company, delicious beer in cozy pubs but the chance of walking where famous Vikings once trod. It is a country full of surprises and as J and L found out that there doesn’t seem enough time in a person’s lifetime to learn all that the Emerald Isle holds in the world of history.

And there are always the pubs - that is enough sometimes.