Gaslamp Quarter

The Welcome on 5th Street

One of the most rewarding aspects of penning an exploration and research blog is all the history one learns. John and Laureen are natural history buffs and we truly enjoy the knowledge gleaned from the research needed for the majority of our blogs.

For example, in this blog we really dug deep into why the Gaslamp Quarter in San Diego is so popular. Sure, there are fine restaurants, plenty of bars and entertainment venues, historical landmarks, and dozens of hotels welcoming guests to the city. No matter the traveler's budget, there is something for everyone in the Gaslamp Quarter. But, this district is a very popular ‘hang-out’ for local San Diegans as well – why is that? Most cities have tourist areas which locals will avoid at all costs but not this locale. This 16 ½ square block area located in downtown, is just a few steps from the Convention Center, Petco Park and Horton Plaza, and is enjoyed by all.

Map of the Gaslamp Quarter in relation to the modern city of San Diego

It seems a magnet for all to come and enjoy the day and night life the Quarter offers. There is as much to do when the sun is up as  when it dips below the blue Pacific waters to the west.

Hop aboard for the Gaslamp Quarter

The only way to tell a tourist from a local is how they refer to the area. Even with the large ornate sign spanning 5th Street welcoming everyone to the Gaslamp Quarter, the locals call the area the Gaslamp District. That is referred to as a ‘shibboleth’ – a custom, principle, or belief distinguishing a particular class or group of people. In other words – the locals don’t want to be mistaken for tourists. Snobbery or local pride – perhaps a bit of both but whether you call it the Gaslamp Quarter or the Gaslamp District, the area is a must see.

The question both Laureen and John wanted to answer is what was the history of this beautiful and eclectic district, and how far back did that history stretch?

The answer was actually quite fascinating.

1880's style never gets old

It seems that San Diego faced an uncertain future after statehood was granted to California in 1850. The town was a small village near the border of Mexico and no matter what enterprising people dreamed of turning it into, never seemed to become a reality. In fact, William Heath Davis spent approximately $60,000 building a wharf in that same year, and had visions of San Diego becoming a close competitor in shipping with San Francisco. The problem was the wharf was rarely used for commercial purposes, and in 1853 a ship collided with the wharf. That damage was never repaired, and the broken wharf became known as 'Davis’ Folly.'

Things took a turn for the better when a developer from San Francisco named Alonzo Horton arrived in 1867, believing the city of San Diego was his to create.

The place Wyatt Earp called home while in San Diego

“I have been nearly all over the world and it seemed to me to be the best spot for building a city I ever saw,” he reportedly stated when looking over the raw sections of land bordering the San Diego Bay. He knew the city center itself had to be by the water – rather upsetting the citizens who lived in what would later become known as Old Town.

Horton paid $265 for 900 acres near the water's edge at an auction and soon his dream began to take shape. He referred to the area as New Town and started talking business owners into moving to this new location by the sea. His salesmanship was so good that on one day, the 24th of March 1869, he sold some $5,500 dollars worth of commercial and residential property. Quite a profit for one day’s selling by the man from San Francisco with dreams of creating a shining port city at the southernmost tip of California.

Beautiful architecture surrounds the Gaslamp Quarter 

The area boomed and soon the entire government business of running the city was relocated to the area, including moving the county courthouse in 1871.

But it was those 16 ½ original acres that became the most famous of the new downtown of San Diego and through the years, have prospered beyond Horton’s wildest dreams. Of course, with prosperity comes a certain element of not-so-good citizens – the town’s red light district (123 bordellos), gambling halls, sleazy bars (71), and the like grew up right beside the respectable businesses.

Historic Yuma Building - constructed 1882

In fact, the area south of Market Street became so well-known for low-lifes running the streets and the various businesses, that it was nicknamed the Stingaree--so called because a person could get stung easier in that section of town than while swimming in the San Diego Bay known for actual stingrays.

Even Wyatt Earp, of Tombstone fame, leased four gambling houses in the Stingaree area and made San Diego his home for years. The San Diego City Directory had him listed as a capitalist – nice way to say gambler – in 1887. He may have lived or kept visiting the city until 1896. Of course, his wife, Josie was beside him the entire time as they were inseparable after being together since the gunfight in Tombstone which made Wyatt Earp a household name.

Soon, the more reputable businesses moved farther north of Market Street so their customers and they would not have to socialize with the Stingaree folks.

The area had its ups and downs for decades and finally in 1970 the good citizens showed interest in preserving the history of the place. In 1976, the city adopted the Gaslamp Quarter Urban Design and Development Manual, detailing how to preserve the historical structures themselves from further decay. By 1982, the Quarter became a major focus of redevelopment and was listed as a national historic district.

A great venue destination for any traveler

The end result is fabulous and a great joy to visit any day of the year.

Lots of great restaurants are to be had in the Quarter

For more information:

Gaslamp Quarter - https://www.gaslamp.org/
Explore San Diego - https://www.sandiego.org/articles/downtown/historic-gaslamp-quarter.aspx

Doc Holli-Days

On a muggy August 14th, 1851 in Griffin, Georgia a bundle of joy was delivered to Henry and Alice Holliday. The thrill of having a son must have been awesome for the couple, but tuberculosis would take Alice in September of 1866 leaving her then fourteen year old son mother-less. He was a smart child and eventually went on to earning a degree in dentistry from the Pennsylvania College of Dental Surgery at the age of twenty-one.

The real life John Henry 'Doc' Holliday

It was time to build a practice to make his mother proud but that would not be the case for John Henry Holliday - aka, Doc Holliday. No, he too came down with tuberculosis to which his mother and his adopted brother Francisco had succumbed. Under guidance the young man moved west to drier climates in the hopes that would ease the congestion and perhaps neutralize the disease.

John Henry moved to Dallas, got into a partnership in dentistry with Dr. John A. Seegar and their practice won award after award for the job they did for their patients. People were happy with their teeth in Dallas. In March of 1874 the partnership dissolved and Doc moved onto his own practice but that didn't seem to work out.

The move west had not cleared his tuberculosis and coughing out phlegm and other bodily fluids was not a good thing for a dentist to do. His practice dwindled and when he took to the life of a gambler, he began to garner a reputation for being pretty handy with a knife and a pistol.

Thus the sullied reputation of a dentist from Georgia was born. And it would have probably died if Doc had not run into a fellow by the name of Wyatt Earp.

Kurt Russell as Wyatt Earp and Val Kilmer as Doc Holliday

A star was born.

One hundred and sixty-six years after Doc Holliday was born, his name continues to be immortalized in the small town of Tombstone, Arizona. It was here that a dentist turned gambler and killer would make his mark, standing side by side with Wyatt, Morgan, and Virgil Earp against the Clanton gang at the OK Corral. A thirty second gunfight would go down in the annuls of history as the most retold gunfight in western lore.

In 1993, a film was released featuring Kurt Russell named 'Tombstone'. The movie detailed all the events leading up to that famous gunfight on October 26, 1881. It was a blockbuster hit and still is with millions of hard-core western genre.

One of the main characters, of course, was Doc Holliday played by the very talented actor Val Kilmer. When the film was released the star of the show was Kilmer - Russell being the humble person he is (by all accounts) allowed Val to take the best lines and with this also allowed the film to become one of the most watched westerns of all times.

Val Kilmer as Doc Holliday

So, the town of Tombstone, yes it still exists happily looking over the valley toward the Dragoon Mountains to the east, decided to start an annual Doc Holli-Days celebration. A three-day event honoring the birthdate of the real Doc Holliday and who best to knock the inaugural weekend off but the one and only Val Kilmer.

 J and L loaded the trusty Dodge Ram and drove nearly nine hours to participate in this new yearly event in the town deemed - 'Too Tough to Die'. Of course, friends were waiting graciously in Tombstone and together they all dressed to kill - fictionally and not literally for the gala.

Some of the 'bad boys'

John, Robert and Barry on the streets of Tombstone

Michelle and Laureen

There was a meet and greet with Val on Saturday, a parade through the tiny town, a key to the city presented to Val, and many more events.

It was a grand affair and twenty thousand people from around the world - yes, there was a gentleman from South Africa present for the soiree, swarmed the wooden sidewalks and dirt streets to take part in this birthday celebration.

When meeting with Val at the Schieffelin Hall the actor sat in a straight back chair - smiled, shook hands and was happy to have a photograph taken with the fans. J and L were fans and had a photo taken with this truly adaptive and talented man. J then presented Val with a copy of his novel, Hunted, and Val seemed very interested and promised to read it shortly.

Val Kilmer accepting one of John's novels as a gift

Within an hour the parade was on with Val as Grand Marshall.

The Grand Marshall - Val Kilmer

Well, this blog has taken on a bit of length but we at J and L are not done with the trip to Tombstone. There will be more to follow - and to paraphrase Ike Clanton from the film Tombstone:

                                                         "We'll see you soon - real soon."

Tombstone - too tough to die! Whaaaattttt?

Does a Sidewalk End in Reality?

 Does a Sidewalk End in Reality?

Howdy Pardner!

Old Town Scottsdale is a pleasant adventure for anyone – no matter your age. Restaurants, gift shops, pubs, and just a meandering sidewalk beckon the traveler to take a moment, step out of the automobile and let the feet lead the way.

No hurry while putting one foot in front of the other but simply pure enjoyment while sightseeing.

Sightseeing – hmmm, “n, the visiting of places of interest” per Webster and doesn’t that say a lot of what researchers and explorers do on a daily routine? To research this or that and then go out and physically explore to learn if that research was valid or not. To take a walk-about as the Aussie’s like to remind us is a way to reinvent ourselves – to learn about others as well.

Reinvent yourself - that's not our Happy Hour idea

While treading about the curved sidewalks of Scottsdale the visitor can’t help but notice interesting (there’s Webster) historical notices etched into the very cement below one’s feet. It is as though the sidewalk of Old Town is leading the visitor through some very important episodes of this city which was incorporated back in 1951 with a population of 2,000 but now boasts over 230,000. The cities own slogan is, “The West’s Most Western Town”. Of course, many towns and cities would probably argue that like Tucson, Tombstone, and even Los Angeles (thought we’d throw that in) but the history of Scottsdale is rich.

The Most Western of Western Towns?

The town was named after Winfield Scott – not the famous General of the Civil War but the other Winfield Scott of the Civil War (confused yet?) who served as a Chaplain but did lead Company C of the 126^th New York Volunteers. Even being a fire and brimstone Baptist minister Scott knew his country – the North – needed his skills and so with the rank of Captain he led his men into many dangerous fights with the Confederate States Army. Being wounded at the Battle of Harpers Ferry, Gettysburg and finally Spotsylvania Court House Captain Scott was released from duty due to his wounds toward the end of 1864. He and his family moved a bit after the war and ended up in the west in the Salt River Valley, east of Phoenix. Winfield was so impressed he settled and started promoting the area as a wonderful place to embrace – thus the reason in in 1894 the area become known as Scottsdale.

Winfield and Helen Scott in 1900

It should be noted that in 1888 Winfield bought 640 acres in the Salt River Valley for the price of just over three dollars - that is the whopping amount of ninety-two dollars in 2016. A square mile of land for less than a foo-foo coffee at Starbucks. A good investment for the Civil War Vet and to have the town named after you too - such a deal! 

Now, the sidewalks visitors will find themselves walking atop of don’t have much in the way of describing Captain Winfield Scott or the ‘Fighting Pastor’ as the founder of Scottsdale but it does lead the curious on who actually did have something to make Scottsdale the most western of western towns.

Billy the Kid, Bat Masterson, Wyatt Earp and many others are etched right there in the cement reminding those staring down that very famous western characters once roamed through these parts. Fascinating bit of history but that is not all there is to Old Town.

Zane Grey -  Western Writer

Doc Holiday -  Western Dentist

General Powell - Western Explorer

Kit Carson - Western Scout

A river runs through the western edge allowing the traveler a chance to feel cool and refreshed – that’s what water does for a person. Restaurants line the river-walk and along the long stretches of sidewalk stores tease the shoppers to enter and purchase everything from tourist gizmos to hand made furniture in the thousands of dollars and to some of the most marvelous jewelry available.

Time for an evening stroll along the riverfront

In 1974 Shel Silverstein’s poem, ‘Where the sidewalk ends’ was published to international acclaim and one line in particular meant something special to J and L – “Yes we’ll walk with a walk that is measured and slow.”

Don't want to miss anything along the way you may regret

That is how one should take walking down a sidewalk – measure steps to ensure nothing is missed and slow enough to enjoy those things not missed.

These two fellas are taking it real easy and slow

Getting Away

Sometimes a trip away from home to relax is just that - a trip away for a few days with no cell phone connections to impede upon the peace of a road trip. It seems as though, unlike decades before, people could actually get away and enjoy their self-imposed exile to unwind and be with those or that person they love without the constant desire to check emails, Facebook, or any other interruption from a satellite in the sky.

J and L decided to do just that the last few days taking the faithful RV on a four day hiatus to the Colorado River just north of Earp, California. Yep, the same Wyatt Earp who is famous or infamous depending on your view of history, who, along with his wife Josephine claimed dozens upon dozens of mining claims in this desert community. These were stalwart individuals, not only the Earp's, but those pioneers who ventured across thousands of square miles of some of the most treacherous land in America if not the world.

A land devoid of water, unless they were lucky enough to find a stream not dried up or a low lying water supply which rarely happened. No, these were tough people who found a way to survive.

Hard to think that way sitting in a very comfortable air conditioned RV with plenty of cold refreshments in the refrigerator and looking at the cooling waters of the Colorado River just yards from the campsite.

As a lover of history, both J and L honor those folks long past the trial and tribulations taken to reach this life source of a river. The local Native Americans had always believed the mighty Colorado gave them life and they were correct. That was distinctly apparent as the people from the East came and claimed the land for their own. New comers needed water and the Colorado offered it no matter who had been here previously.

The rest is history.

So, taking a few days off after the final editing J's latest novel, "Soft Target," the team needed to have some decompression time. Emerald Cove Resort was just the right spot. On the river, a great atmosphere, and very friendly staff gave the couple the time needed to think about nothing but the near future.


Okay, so this little spot is not actually in our backyard but within four hours of it was all J and L needed for a few days of R&R and isn't that what most hard working people need once in awhile?


Besides, it turned out to be an easy place to make a couple of new friends.