Le Haute Desert Aerie - the place to be

 

Main Street, Pioneer Town

It was suggested by a reader that I should visit a place near Pioneertown, which I would find very interesting.

I like interesting places, and know Pioneertown. Laureen and I played a couple of characters in a low-budget western film utilizing the 1880’s themed town a few years back. 

Pioneertown - the place, where all sorts of Hollywood western legends used to film movies and television shows is approximately sixty-seven miles, southeast of Victorville off of Highway 247. The likes of Roy Rogers, Russell Haden and Gene Autry, just to name a few were almost locals in this place. Rogers enjoyed nothing better than bowling at the Pioneer Bowl between film shoots.

And there we were with a film crew, all dolled up in our western apparel and ready to act. It was a great deal of fun - if standing around for hours dressed in period wardrobe, on a hot summer day, and waiting for the chance for a three minute on-screen presence could be considered enjoyable at all.

We love dressing the part

Actually, we had a great time with the entire crew and couldn’t wait to see our film debut on the big screen.

We’re still waiting.

But, I digress.

I asked Laureen if she recalled a place in Pioneertown that had something to do with being hot and airy in the desert. “It’s called Le Haute Desert Aerie.”

Shaking her head, something I am all too familiar with when I pose certain questions, she responded. “It’s French, and roughly translated means a birds nest in the high desert.”

“That’s what I thought,” I responded.

Anyway, turns out that this Le Haute Desert Aerie, is a rather fancy getaway that involves Airstream trailers, safari tents, and a large hand-crafted house sitting on top of a high hill just northeast of Pioneertown.

Airstreams, tents, and anything crafted got my attention.

A road trip was needed – actually, in this humble writer’s opinion – a road trip is always needed.

I contacted the General Managers of the Le Haute Desert Aerie, to see if we could have a tour of the property.

Darrein Seqqoya, who is one of the managers along with her husband, Ryan, stated: “We’d love to take you on a tour.”

“And we’d love to be taken on a tour,” I replied. “Are the Airstreams really shiny?”

“Excuse me,” she replied.

“The trailers, the Airstreams, they are so cool and shiny when the sun hits them just right.”

There was a pause. “Yes, they are.”

They are really shiny!

We set a date and time for our tour.

“You didn’t really ask if they were shiny, did you?” Laureen asked, as we headed east out of Lucerne Valley on 247.

I didn’t answer. It did sound rather inane, when stated back to me. Shiny, of course they would be – they’re Airstreams.

Before starting out, research was conducted and learned that the owners of Le Haute Desert Aerie, were Eric and Lori Mueller. Eric is an internationally known artist as well as a successful custom furniture designer and builder. He had painstakingly built each section of the desert getaway himself. Native stone, scavenged Joshua tree wood, and other natural materials were used to create a sanctuary, all on forty acres of rolling desert hills.

Laureen and John beneath the Spirit Portal

For nearly a decade, they have run an Airbnb, used primarily for commercial photographers and film industry rentals. But now, they have expanded and the entire forty acre compound or specific sections of it can be rented from two nights to three million nights. A huge portion of their business is a venue for weddings.

“The photographs on line were beautiful,” Laureen stated. “The whole place looks so serene.”

“We shall see after our tour,” I stated. Being a travel writer, I have to see for myself before making judgement calls with only internet photos as a baseline. I’m disciplined like that.

The directions given to us were perfect. Just a half mile east of the restaurant, Pappy’s and Harriet’s, in Pioneertown there is a very well graded dirt road heading north. Stay on it until it reaches Le Haute Desert Aerie. It’s that simple.

A public service announcement; do not use a GPS. The Pioneertown and Sawtooth Mountains play havoc with the satellites circling the earth. 

“It says to turn around, get out of the car, and roll around in the dirt.”

“Must be the right thing to do. It is the global positioning system, after all.”

Driving up to the main entrance to Le Haute Desert Aerie was very impressive. To the right is the main residence, a large multilevel structure which appears to have come out of a different country.

Recognizable right off is a large wood pergola stationed on the lower level from the entrance way. 

“That’s not from here,” I said.

“No, it’s from Tibet,” Ryan responded, as he and Darrien introduced themselves.

All the way from Tibet

This young couple have been the property managers, and marketing team, for the resort for nearly eight months. They moved to the site from San Diego, and haven’t regretted one second being somewhat off the grid.

“We really enjoyed San Diego,” Darrien said. “But living here, and meeting all the wonderful people who visit us, is so worth it.”

“It’s so peaceful here,” Ryan stated. 

Peaceful seemed in abundance. The views of the desert were wide and open. They were also open and wide.

“Let’s begin with the tour down at the Airstream village,” Darrien suggested.

John with the managers, Ryan and Darrien

And we did. Walking down dirt paths, we were shown a garden of trees – juju bean, cherry, apple, and a whole lot more that I can’t remember. Well-tended and loved.

“The whole property is on solar, even though we are on the grid,” Ryan said. “And we obtain our water from a large underground aquifer.”

According to the U.S. Geological Survey information, the aquifer within the Yucca Valley – Joshua Tree area, is huge, and with its annual recharging from runoffs of snow in the nearby mountains, there is plenty of water to be had.

Airstream Village consisted of two large shiny Airstream trailers, with large outdoor covered decks, fireplaces, barbeques, and awesome views of the desert and mountains to the west. 

One great aspect was the outdoor shower. Well, not outdoor exactly. There are doors for privacy, but when showering there is an open view of the surrounding territory for the showerer.  

“I bet the view from this shower is fabulous at night,” I said.

“All the views at night are fabulous,” Ryan replied. “The Milky Way is our window to the universe.”

Well said, young man, well said.

One of the outdoor showers, staring into the heavens

“We have people from all over,” Darrien reported, “and say they’ve never seen such night skies like we have here.”

The places most of the folks come from are Los Angeles, San Diego, and other places south and toward the coast. Though, according to the managers, they are starting to receive guests from all over the southwest.

This place, this Le Haute Desert Aerie has an entire feeling of the Bohemian to it. It has artsy written all over it. Eric has spent years upon years creating a canvass with layers of relaxed patterns, style, texture, color and warmth.

Each section a visitor would find themselves is different. No two spots within the forty acre refuge is the same.

We learned that as the tour continued past a rather large and gracefully designed natural lagoon. Here, guests can sit in chairs while lounging on the sandy beach, enjoying the coolness of the clear and cool waters. 

On a long winding path, we came to a sign which pointed to the left to Little Tibet and to the right Marrakesh. 

This was the Safari Tent section of the resort. The term is, glamping, short for large canvass tents, with soft queen sized beds, stoves, chairs, and outdoor decks to enjoy the views.

“Now, this is rough camping,” Laureen said.

If this is Glamping - count us in!

A few moments later we were at the main residence, also available for those who desire not only a bit more comfort, but a chance to see all the love Eric put into this home. It is hard to explain in words.

Door frames, doors, floor tiles, ceiling panels, windows seem to speak of other countries in which they have come. The home is that of an artist – an artist with a perfect eye for every detail.

The main house is incredible - that's the best way to describe it

“It is absolutely gorgeous,” Laureen stated.

I had to agree. 

For further information:

https://www.lehautedesertaerie.com/

Christmas Circle - Borrego Springs

I love driving in roundabouts. Really do enjoy the concept of going around in circles, devil-may-care, waiting for an opening in the traffic to fearlessly exit. 

Loved them in Ireland. Loved them in Peru. Loved them in Turks and Caicos. And I love the one in Borrego Springs. Granted, they just have one, but if you don’t exit for twenty minutes, you can pretend the small Southern California desert community has dozens.

“You know, this is our third time around this roundabout,” Laureen asked, as I drove one more time around the beautiful Christmas Circle in downtown Borrego Springs.

“I didn’t get a chance to wave at that guy eating the hoagie on the park bench,” I replied, while waving from the driver’s window.

The grassy, treed circle at the entrance to downtown was named in honor of Salvador Ignacio Linares, who was born in Coyote Canyon, south of Borrego Springs. Salvador was the son of Ignacio Linares and Maria Gertrudis Rivas Linares. Ignacio was a Spanish soldier, and as some customs allowed then, Maria and their other children traveled with the army.

Little Salvador came along on December 25th, 1775.

Monument to Salvador Ignacio Linares

Why the park is named Christmas Circle and not Salvador Park, or Linares Park, or Salvador Ignacio Linares Park – I can only guess. But it is named in the little boy’s honor, and it is a serene setting to take a moment and relax beside covered picnic tables. In fact, many of the community’s outdoor events occur at this location.

According to Francoise Rhodes, Executive Director for the Borrego Springs Chamber of Commerce and Visitors’ Bureau, the town hosts a number of events during the year.

“Normally there are several events throughout the season, our main one being the Borrego Days Desert Festival in October. This is sponsored by the Chamber and is the kickoff event of the season. We also have the Borrego Springs Film Festival which gets larger each year. Several art events in Christmas Circle, air events at the airport, car clubs, motorcycle clubs, golf tournaments and more. Borrego Springs is also a go to place for commercial shoots, movie shoots, music videos and such.”

That is a lot of activity for a small desert community about sixty-four miles southwest from the city of Indio in the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.

I’ve been traveling to Borrego Springs since I was a mere lad. My parents were enamored with camping at the Borrego Palm Canyon campground, with its natural beauty tucked in at the foothills of the towering San Ysidro Mountains. The late afternoon shadows would streak across the landscape providing a wonderfully colorful experience. As day was lost to night, all aspects of what was seen a few moments ago had magically shifted.

Sitting before the campfire, listening to my parent’s chit-chat was a comforting feeling. 

‘Aye, good memories, Laddie’ – except for one, and it involves the sheep.

Campsite at dusk, Palm Canyon State Park

Borrego, is Spanish for sheep, and the area is known for herds of Big Horn Sheep, clamoring effortlessly over the rugged terrain of the mountains. Rumor was that there are so many, that the sheep held regular social gatherings at Christmas Circle in town.

But alas, I have never seen a Big Horn Sheep in Borrego Springs. Not once!

Not seen by this guy in Borrego Springs - ever

I’ve seen them in Big Bear, along the rocky cliffs of Lake Mohave, and once in a Von’s in Apple Valley, but never in Borrego Springs.

“Hey, that’s the guy who’s always looking for us,” Mr. Big Horn #1 pointed out, as he sat on a park bench in Christmas Circle smoking a Fuente Fuente Opus X.

“Yeah, my cousin from Big Bear told me about him,” replied Mr. Big Horn #2, while sipping a snifter of Gautier Cognac 1762. 

“Everyone, act like a tree, he won’t notice us.”

Not once have I seen my beloved Big Horns in the Borrego Springs area.

Borrego Springs is also known as an International Dark Sky Community. In layman’s terms, that means the night sky is so clear, that from earth you can see aliens mowing their lawns on planets in the Canis Major Dwarf Galaxy.

Night sky over the metal desert serpent

“Borrego Springs was the first Designated International Dark Sky Community in the United States and second in the world,” stated Rhodes.

I asked her if there were restrictions on street lights or anything else that may restrict people looking up in the sky to see aliens doing yard work.

“Street lights are allowed, but they are low lit and must shine downward and focus on something, not just general lighting. There are twenty-five street lights in Borrego Springs.”

Twenty-five? Laureen had me put up four hundred thousand solar lights just on our pergola in the rear yard.

No alien sightings at the Beyer household.

But there are a lot of folks who travel to Borrego Springs throughout the year to see spectacular meteor showers, full moons, and other extraterrestrial events happening in the cosmos. 

The town has a permanent population, if anything is truly permanent, of around 3,500 residents, according to the 2010 United States Census. Though the numbers of tourists and part-timers can dramatically increase at any given time of the year. Over a hundred thousand visitors venture into this town each year, and the numbers keep growing.

And why shouldn’t the numbers increase? That’s a good question, actually.

Borrego is not just ideal for alien aficionados though. Laureen and I were driving through Borrego Springs a few years back, when she pointed toward something north of the main drag coming into the town.

“Is that a dinosaur?”

“I’m sure it’s not a Bighorn Sheep,” I replied, disappointment in my voice. 

No, it wasn’t a Bighorn Sheep, but a huge metal artwork of a serpent. It was so large, it started on one side of the road and ended hundreds of feet to the east on the other side. It seemed as though this creature was raising its large angry head to the sky, while the rest of the body slithered up and down in the soft desert sand.

John R Beyer - taming the metal serpent in Borrego Springs

It was beautiful.

On a recent trip, I noticed that across the desert there were dozens and dozens of additional metal sculptures of dinosaurs, horses, sloths, mammoths, dragons, and so many other breathtaking sculptures. 

The rusty metal creatures stand tall in the wilds of the Colorado Desert, as though they are challenging anyone to complain about their presence there. 

Don't get in between these two 

Visitors can drive on hard packed dirt paths to get a closer look at all the diverse animals situated in the area.

The Galleta Meadows Sculptures were the dream of Dennis Avery, who enlisted the assistance of artist, Ricardo Breceda to create the metal creatures looming across the desert near Borrego Springs.

Giant ground sloth - helped spread plant seeds through its droppings

According to Rhodes, “The Galleta Meadows Sky Art Metal Sculptures was commissioned by paper magnate Dennis Avery and donated to the community. Borrego Springs is where these metal sculptures all started. Dennis loved seeing the sculptures all over the desert. Since his passing, a foundation takes care of them and there will be no additional sculptures added.”

Really? My take is that if you can go to a great little community, like Borrego Springs, look up into the night sky and see aliens on a distant planet taking out their trash, then there’s a chance another rusting creature may mysteriously arise in the hinterlands of the desert.

Perhaps, this time a Bighorn Sheep.

Borrego Springs gave us a feeling of being in a tight-knit community; one which also welcomes visitors. There are plenty of restaurants for those with distinguishing palates. There are stores for art work, jewelry, clothing, hiking supplies, camping supplies, and any other supplies the traveler may require.

A welcoming town with everything the guest could use

There are hotels for every budget as well as camping sites at various state campgrounds, like the one my parents enjoyed in Palm Canyon, and there are five-star RV resorts with their own restaurants and golf courses.

In other words, the small town of Borrego Springs is a great and wonderful experience for anyone visiting, no matter the season.

As Rhodes put it, “Borrego Springs is proud to say there are no traffic signals. We do not have any big box stores or chain restaurants. It’s all about community and to some perhaps it might seem like having less. But to Borregans we feel we have so much more.”

And trust me, they do.

Take a hike - up and down ladders

Paul watching where he steps

My friend, Larry, asked if I had ever heard of the ladders. I thought that was a strange question, since I’ve been climbing up and down ladders all my life. I should have known better when Larry speaks, the question might require deeper thought.

“You mean, like when Laureen wants a different pair of shoes from the top of our closet? Sure, usually I need an extension ladder. It’s a very tall walk-in.”

“No, I mean the hike through the Painted Canyon Trail near Mecca.”

I shook my head. “Nope, that doesn’t ring a bell, and I’ve been on hikes that you can actually ring a bell at the top of the trail.” Admittedly, a cheap plug for an earlier article I wrote for the Daily Press, concerning Bell Mountain in Apple Valley.

“You need to go,” Larry responded.

No need to ask me twice, unless I wasn’t listening – like I do with our children. If Larry said to go hike this place outside of Mecca, then I would do it.”

“He didn’t mean Saudi Arabia,” Laureen stated. “He’s talking about the town of Mecca by Salton Sea. We’ve been there.”

 “I knew that,” I said, while secretly sticking my passport into my back pocket. 

Turns out, that the Ladder Canyon and Painted Canyon Trail is one of the most popular destinations for outdoorsy people in Southern California. 

According to Alltrails.com – ‘Ladder Canyon and Painted Canyon Trail is a 4.9 mile heavily trafficked loop trail located near Mecca, California that features a waterfall and is rated as moderate. The trail offers a number of activity options and is best used from October until April.’

The reason the trail should only be hiked until the end of April, is that after that – the sun happens to be about thirty yards off the ground in the low desert.

Yes, in April and possibly May, the hike near Salton Sea – which is minus two hundred and twenty-six feet below sea level – is doable. But, like most desert communities, come June – hiker beware.

Looking west from the rim toward Salton Sea

‘Hiker beware’ means that if you venture out into a furnace, and the only floor you have is radiating sand, then the sunscreen you lathered on only means it will take a bit longer for you to bake.

A serious note - always be aware of your surroundings when outdoors. Bring plenty of water, wear a hat, have sunscreen on exposed skin, and check the current weather in the area you are planning on hiking. Mother Nature can play dangerous games on those less observant of her rules. 

“It’s not that hot.”

“I can’t hear you, my ears just melted off my head.”

Be careful out there – sounded like a PSA, didn’t it.

Okay, do I ever take these precautions to heart? Of course not, my job is to go out and find places to visit and tell others about them.

I’m a professional – that usually means, I do stupid things to get published.

“So, when are you going to hike this trail?” Laureen asked.

“I was thinking mid-August, when the temperature would be equal to that on Venus.”

Then our friend, Paul and I decided the end of March would be a better time to hike the Ladders trail. 

The directions to reach the trailhead are easy. Drive south out of the city of Indio on Highway 111 (also known as Grapefruit Boulevard) for about sixteen miles, enter the small town of Mecca (not to be confused with the one is Saudi Arabia), take a left at 4th Street, turn right onto 66th Avenue and then just continue in an easterly direction until reaching Painted Canyon Road. Painted Canyon Road is a four mile dirt road that heads to the trailhead – well paved, and even though some sites state a four-wheel drive vehicle is best (and when aren’t they?) any mode of transportation, except a skateboard, should be able to make the passage. Though, about a quarter of a mile from the trailhead, there is a bit of deep sand, but the cautious driver should not have any issues – unless there are flashfloods, haboobs, earthquakes, or an asteroid strikes.

“It was easy getting here,” Paul stated, as I parked the truck.

I nodded. “I may just put in the blog how easy it was to get here.”

Donning our gear, mainly a water pack, we were ready to start hiking. Even though it was early on a Monday, the trailhead already had a dozen other vehicles parked. Another serious note, when hiking in the desert, no matter the time of year, always try to get an early start – just because the weather says the high will be seventy degrees doesn’t mean it will be a pleasant stroll through the landscape. If there’s no shade, seventy in full sun can be intense – thus, the reason for plenty of water and a hat.

At the trailhead, there was a map of the hike, I took a photo of it, but Alltrails.com had one that I also had downloaded.

“Let’s do this,” I stated, while starting down the sandy trail toward the narrowing canyon walls.

“We’re hiking, not robbing a bank,” Paul stated. “Let’s do this! OMG, we’re following a well-worn path.”

It’s best to ignore Paul early in the morning. He can be a little grumpy.

The first quarter of a mile is through a river bed with deep soft sand, before reaching a large arrow on the ground made out of river rocks pointing to the left. There, a large rock fall marks the first ladder to be used to clamber up through a narrow slot canyon.

Yes, real metal ladders are used to go from one section of the canyon to the next, along the trail as you gain about five hundred and sixty feet in elevation to the top of the rim.

John climbing on of the many ladders

The canyon trail meanders right to left and then left to right, and are tall and narrow. At some points, I had to turn sideways to make my way through, especially after climbing up a ladder and squeezing through the opening at the top.

Paul navigating one of the trickier sections with a ladder

According to hiking-in-ps.com, ‘The Mecca Hills (where Painted Canyon Trail is) were formed by the convergence of the North American Plate and the Pacific Plate along the San Andreas Fault. The geologic formations of Mecca Hills are among the most unusual of their kind in the world.

I determined that “some of the most unusual in the world” was a great description as we hiked through the multi-colored canyons with towering rock walls reaching upward to the blue sky. It was eerie to walk through this natural labyrinth. One moment the sun would be streaming down through the narrow slits above us and then it would be gone, leaving us in an almost twilight darkness.

The narrow canyons wind their way through the area

The shapes of the walls constantly twisted here and there. Various shades of earth greeted us at every step, as if an artist had spent time creating these colorful designs on the canvas of the walls.

Again, according to hiking-in-ps.com, ‘Layers of eroded rock, some over 600 million years old, have been pushed up and overturned by the activity of the San Andreas Fault system.’

It is awe inspiring to see how the violence of the early earth created such dramatic backgrounds for us to witness.

The Ladder Canyon and Painted Canyon Trail, is such a place.

Being a loop trail nearly five miles in length, gives the hiker a lot to view. Beautiful canyon walls, brilliant rock surfaces, tall Ironwood and Smoke trees, and one of the best views of the Salton Sea to the southwest from the top of the rim there could be.

The trail is rated as moderate, but with a steady gait, the hike can be completed in three hours. Of course, it may take longer when stopping to snap a photo of this and that – and there’s plenty of this and that to snap photos of along the way.

Hikers have claimed that Bighorn Sheep frequent the area, along with desert wildlife such as spotted bats, desert tortoises, and prairie falcons. 

We saw ravens.

Even though there seemed to be a lot of people hiking the day we made the trek, there were no lines at the nearly half a dozen ladders, but weekends can be crazily busy with long conga lines forming at the bottoms of the ladders.

If a person is not in a hurry, then what’s a little wait now and then? Relax, join the dance line and enjoy the wonders of Mother Nature.

Paul's arm shows it's not only the heat that can hurt you