Ely, Nevada

All Aboard for Ely with Conductor John R Beyer

I had never heard of the town Ely, which is located at the intersections of Highways 50, 6 and 93 in what could be described as central- eastern Nevada, until my buddy, Paul told me about the annual Silver State Classic Challenge.

I like challenges – though, only the ones for which I will be the victor.

Turns out this challenge is centered around closing State Route 318 south of Ely so people with rather awesome vehicles can drive like bats out of something for ninety miles.

The real challenge is that each driver must keep to a strict speed and strict time – never increasing or decreasing the speed and adhering to the registered time limit for the entire ninety miles.

Paul’s brother-in-law had a new car capable of about six hundred miles per hour. They both had fun but did end up with permanent grimaces due to the ‘G’ forces for ninety miles at such a high speed.

As life sometimes work, within a year of Paul telling me about Ely, I was there. Not for the Silver State Classic Challenge but due to the fact Ely was the mid-point between the High Desert and Meridian, Idaho.

Seemed like a logical place to stop for the night while on the way to visit our new grandson in Meridian.

“It is logical to stop here,” I told Laureen.

“You sound like Mr. Spock,” she replied. 

“My ears are rounded.”

Ely was founded in 1878 by J.W. Long, who came west from Vermont to find his riches. Long did find gold in the hills and valleys near Ely but what is more interesting is how the town became known as Ely.

There are many versions to this tale.

Long came from Ely, Vermont. Long was sent west by New York Congressman with the surname of Ely as a historian. Smith Ely was also a Vermont resident who helped finance one of the early mining endeavors in the area. And a John Ely from Illinois came to this part of the country to also mine and make a fortune.

Rather confusing there is no one solid reason for Ely to be known as Ely. Long should have called it Long and let it go.

“We’ll call it Long, after me,” Long should have said to anyone.

Anyone would have only nodded and replied, “Humph, that is a logical name for a town founded by you and less confusing in the future.”

The original route to Ely was the rough trail scouted and utilized by Howard Egan in 1855 to move herds of cattle. Egan would drive the cattle between Salt Lake City and California to market. Though the high mountains had not been used by other explorers since it was considered too dangerous, Egan had found many passes through those same mountains saving time instead of having to skirt the entire ranges during his cattle movement.

This trail would later become known as the Central Overland Route.

With the construction of the Selby Copper Mining and Smelting Company in the same year the town was founded, Ely began to grow slowly. At the time there was not much interest in copper since most miners were looking for gold or silver. 

In 1887, the Nevada State Legislature designated Ely as the White Pine County seat of government. That was a huge feather in the cap for such a small town, and in November of 1887 a post office was opened – another feather in that Ely cap.

White Pine County Seat

Since the Central Overland Route ran right through Ely, the route was used by early travelers going to and from Salt Lake City, Utah or Carson City, Nevada on a regular basis.

In fact, the Pony Express used this same route for its young riders.

Ely served as a stagecoach station for folks traveling through the area. Soon the town began to increase both in population and buildings, and with the completion of the Nevada Northern Railway in 1906, Ely became the transportation hub for emigrants, mail, freight and passengers between California, Nevada, and Utah.

In the same year, more copper was located and with the railroad, transportation of the mineral was far easier than previously over the rutted trail.

A copper boom had begun.

Soon, from a modest population of only three hundred people, the town quickly grew to over five thousand.

It should be noted that when the last railroad spike was driven into the last rail in Ely on September 26, 1906, the whole town was there and declared it ‘Railroad Day.’ The celebration lasted three days – they knew how to party at the turn of the twentieth century.

Ely Railroad Station

Today, Ely has nearly four thousand citizens living there.

As we drove north along Highway 93 toward Ely, Laureen and I were amazed at how green the mountains were.

“I love greenery,” I stated.

“That’s because we live in a desert,” she replied.

Soon, we entered the city limits and before stopping at the hotel, decided to mosey about this mountain burg which sits at nearly six thousand five hundred feet in elevation.

Original 'chuck wagon' in front of hotel

Cruising along the main street, also known as East Aultman or Highway 50, we were impressed at how quiet and quaint the town looked.

Downtown Ely

Again, it was like stepping back in time – in the good way, not to the time of mullets or beehive hairdos.

Red brick buildings lined the wide main avenue. The residential streets were littered with houses with large front porches where family and friends could gather. Sidewalks where folks could walk and wave at those family and friends who were gathered on the front porches.

I felt as if I were in Mayberry, and Aunt Bee would soon invite us up for a shot of an adult liberation on the front porch.

The whole place had a homey and neighborly feeling – it was comfortable.

Even the dinosaurs like Ely

Though the population is not huge, the town had a feeling of hustle and bustle but without the noise and anxiety found in many other places we have visited.

Ely had a certain ‘chill factor’ to it.

We drove to the very large Nevada Northern Railway Museum, a National Historic Landmark, and spent quite a bit of time wandering here and there. 

According to the museum – ‘The Nevada Northern has been acclaimed as the best-preserved railroad complex in North America. For railfans, history buffs, and those who are generally curious, it is well worth the journey.’

The site is enormous with original steam locomotives, passenger cars, transportation cars, and so much more for those interested in the history of the railroad and how the railroad changed the country.

And who would not be interested?

Visitors can arrange to spend the night in the museum, the original depot – I am sure it is haunted and if not, should be. There are train excursions taking folks on a ninety-minute train ride through the mountains with stops at ghost towns – see more haunting places. And something called the Railroad Reality Week, a full immersion experience – no idea what that means but sounds interesting. And so much more at this museum for everyone.

Speaking of ghost towns on the train ride, there are numerous ghost towns within an easy drive from Ely like Lane City, Hamilton, Treasure City, Taylor, and No Ghosts Here City.

Like many of the places I visit that are out of the way, there are many events which happen all year-round drawing both locals and visitors from all over the state, country, and world.

There’s the Eli Film Festival for the more artsy folks, the three-day Fire and Ice Winter Festival for those who relish three-day festivals, the Race the Rails bicycle race for those who enjoy seeing if they can beat trains through the railroad crossings, the White Pine County Fair and Horseraces for those who visit fairs and horseraces, and the Search for Sasquatch Outing.

A lot to do in this town which also boasts some fine restaurants, hotels, and other such amenities for those just traveling through or planning to stay a few days.

According to the White Pine County website, ‘From the spectacular grandeur of the Great Basin National Park to the quiet serenity of Cave Lake State Park . . . From the historic mining towns of McGill and Ruth to the 24 – hour night life of Ely . . . We have a wonderful place to visit and live.’

And I believe they do.

Unfortunately, we did not have the luxury of spending much time in Ely since we were on a mission to Idaho, but it is a town that will beckon us back during various seasons to see what more we can see.

Traveling is like that – sometimes one can spend time and sometimes one must hit the black ribbon highway and make miles.

It should be noted, Ely is pronounced ‘Elee’ but in deference to our first grandson, Elias – the town hugging so many highways in Nevada will be unofficially pronounced as ‘Eli’ in our household.

For more information, http://www.elynevada.org/

Butch Cassidy and Winnemucca, Nevada

 As a child, I often got blamed for things going wrong around the house. Of course, many times it was me that caused those things going wrong but sometimes I was not the culprit, at least I pleaded so.

“Johnny,” my grandmother would say. “Did you put a snake in the clothes washer?”

My loving Nana would always say clothes washer instead of washing machine. Not sure there is a difference but sounds like there should have been.

“Well,” I would reply, while bowing my head in deep thought before answering. 

Nana was pure Irish and knew a lie when one came flying at her. The Irish – they know how to embellish stories and know when those stories are being embellished.

Though I am sixty-five percent Irish, I use only pure research when writing my articles – be it a faraway chance when this writer would ever embellish a story.

I know this to be true when I happened upon a leprechaun and a Sasquatch having lunch one fine afternoon in a dell in the sweet green grasses near Dublin. They both finished their pints and said in tandem – ‘You be the most truthful person we ever have met, laddie.”

Whatever story I concocted at the time did not fly with my Nana. I had to remove a very wet snake from the washer and the snake was not in a good mood at the time.

“No more made-up stories from you,” she said.

I nodded, knowing it was in my blood to make a dull story a wee bit more interesting if I could.

The point of these nearly two hundred and fifty words?

Well, sometimes people will claim a person may have done something when they really have not.

And that is not a bunch of blarney.

A perfect example, on September 19, 1900, three men walked into the First National Bank of Winnemucca, Nevada at the corner of Fourth Street and Bridge Street and carried out a risky midday robbery.

Scene of the crime

They held guns on the patrons and workers. They swore, spit and then one brandished a knife as if the guns were not enough to carry out their daring raid.

It was rumored that one of the outlaws held his hands up during the robbery and said, “Really, a knife, we have six-shooters pointed at everyone. A little overkill, wouldn’t you say?”

One of the other robbers growled, “Makes us look fierce and dangerous.”

The third robber shrugged his shoulders, “Probably should have also thought of masks when we made these plans. Don’t you think?”

“Well, shoot,” one robber said. “No, I didn’t mean that!”

After a bit of hesitation and the threat of great bodily harm, George S. Nixon, the cashier, finally opened the vault and handed over nearly thirty-thousand dollars in gold coins. That would be well over a million dollars today.

Quite a haul for any group of fellows.

The robbery was then blamed on the notorious but well-liked robber, Butch Cassidy, and his Hole in the Wall Gang.

This was where truth sometimes is hidden in a bit of fiction.

Stately Courthouse - the hangings happened out back

The city of Winnemucca was named after Chief Winnemucca who lived in the area in the 19th century. He was a member of the Northern Paiutes. The Chief received his moniker when some early travelers came through what would be later known as Humboldt County in Nevada and saw him wearing only one moccasin.

Winnemucca is a loose translation meaning one moccasin – sort of like what probably happened to the Chief’s lost moccasin.

An interesting point in the story is that Sarah Winnemucca, the Chief’s daughter, later became an important advocate for the Native Americans living in and around the county. It was she who had the United States government begin to treat the Paiute and Shoshone tribes with more respect, offering education to all who desired it.

Sarah was also the first Native American to have her autobiography published, detailing her life as a daughter to a chief, working as an interpreter, a scout and messenger for the United States Army.

In fact, the autobiography has been referred to as, ‘one of the most enduring ethno-historical books written by an American Indian’ according to the 1983 Journal of California and Great Basin Anthropology.

Gold was discovered not far from Winnemucca in the late 1860s bringing forth thousands of miners swarming to the hills and mountains not far from what would become the capital of Humboldt County.

In September of 1868, the Central Pacific Railroad arrived and in October of that year, it became part of the of the transcontinental railroad system.

Soon immigrants from all over started to arrive to this hilly landscape which happened to be perfect for raising sheep. 

Basques, the immigrants who arrived from northern Spain and southern France, moved into Winnemucca in the mid-19th-century and worked as sheepherders. Many became very successful and expanded their enterprises to the point that modern day Winnemucca hosts one of the largest annual Basque festivals in the United States, known as Euskal jajak.

So, with the town of Winnemucca growing quickly from the gold discoveries, the railroad and all the immigrants making their way across the Great Basin, bank robbers realized the local bank would probably have gobs of gold just waiting to be stolen.

There was and it was stolen on that summer day in 1900.

A short time later, Butch Cassidy and his gang were blamed – but there was an important issue missing. Butch was not there on the date of the robbery.

Butch Cassidy's Hole in the Wall Gang

Though Cassidy was known for bank robberies, his best-known antics leaned more toward train robbing.

It is rumored that Butch once said, “I like banks but blowing up mail cars on a train is a lot more fun. In fact, I bet that sixty-some years from now someone will make one of those moving pictures shows about me blowing the heck out of one of those mail cars.”

When the First National Bank of Winnemucca was robbed, Cassidy was nearly six hundred miles away in Tipton, Wyoming. He was planning a train robbery, which took place on August twenty-ninth of 1900, and he got away with fifty-thousand dollars in gold.

Time travel had not been invented yet in 1900, so unless Cassidy robbed a train and high-tailed to Winnemucca, the chances he was involved in the bank heist is a little hard to believe.

But Butch’s name is forever etched into Winnemucca’s history. Of course, perhaps the three men who did rob the bank may have been a part of the Hole in the Wall Gang

As the Sundance Kid may have said, “Yes, we were a gang but kind of a loosie-goosy kind of gang. We did things together and sometimes did things on our own”. 

To this day the three men’s identity is still a mystery, and the gold has never been found or spent, according to research.

Winnemucca is a great destination, as Laureen and I found out. The downtown area feels as though the visitor has stepped back in time and reliving what life was like at the turn of the twentieth century. Minus the bank robberies.

We walked up and down the streets taking in all the sights. The huge, beautiful Humboldt County Courthouse stands majestically on a high hill overlooking downtown Winnemucca.

A large convention center is within walking distance and hosts various events each year for locals and visitors alike.

View looking west across downtown Winnemucca 

Winnemucca is also home to the Buckaroo Hall of Fame and has a wonderful Heritage Museum to peruse.

Some of the largest events held in this modern but slow-paced city, besides the Euskal jajak, is the annual Ranch Hand Rodeo, the Run-A-Mucca Motorcycle Rally, the Tri-County Fair and Stampede, and the I Am Going Run the Hecka Out of the Way of the Stampede Event.

For those travelers looking for an adult libation, a visit to the Butch Cassidy’s Hole in the Wall Bar on Bridge Street is a must.

And for those more adventurous souls, there are dozens of ghost towns from the old mining days in Humboldt County just waiting to be visited.

There is Camp McGarry, Camp Winfield Scott, Jumbo, and Willow Point, just to name a few and the best part they are all an easy drive from Winnemucca.

What a better day than to visit historical sites and then return for the evening and perhaps have a great Basque meal while tossing back a glass of Txakoli.

Of course, when visiting a ghost town or any other historical site be careful where you walk and leave the place as you found it, so others may enjoy it in the future.

There are some real dodo-heads who don’t follow that advice and ruin everything – don’t be one of them.

As we drove away from Winnemucca, I turned to Laureen and said, “I liked Winnemucca. Did you like Winnemucca?”

She nodded. “Yes, but you just like to say Winnemucca.”

It was true, but I truly enjoyed our first jaunt through Winnemucca.

For more information: http://www.winnemucca.com/

San Bernardino County Museum

John R Beyer at the county museum 

 According to David Myers, Chief Deputy of the San Bernardino County Museum, nearly eighty thousand people wander the hallways, admiring the exhibits. Heads twisting this way and that way, gaining as much knowledge as they can during their visit.

“That’s a lot of people visiting a county museum,” I stated, while Laureen was sipping on her morning coffee.

“Shall we visit, then?”

“Oh, we shall,” I responded. 

So, one sunny Saturday morning, we headed south on the I-15 for a day of exploring what the museum had in store for us.

“We might get hungry walking around the museum, since we didn’t eat breakfast,” Laureen said.

“Taken care of.”

DJ Coffee shop on 40th Street in San Bernardino did the trick. The place was rocking, as it usually is on our visits. We like the old establishment – great people working there, food is always good, and it’s been a mainstay in the neighborhood for decades. 

One motto of mine is to dine before exploring. It’s sort of like never go grocery shopping on an empty stomach.

“Why did you buy twelve boxes of Twinkies?”

There is no good reply to that question.

Before leaving, I did some research on the museums core values. Not sure why, but I thought it would make me sound more academic.

‘Through the lens of the region’s dynamic cultural and natural history, the San Bernardino County Museum develops visitors’ appreciation of our diverse identity to spark their curiosity, to stimulate inquiry, to challenge their assumptions, and to invite them to contribute to our common future.’

That is one heavy mission statement. I am exhausted just typing it.

Once we reached the museum, we noticed it is set up in a logical sequence. As though the hosts wanted the guests to flow easily and rationally through the halls.

“Many of our exhibit components are designed to be explored in chronological order which aids in adding context to the exhibit story,” Myers noted. “However, other exhibits may be organized thematically or even geographically. It all depends on the exhibit and how the visitor chooses to explore it.”

Chronological order? Thematically? Geographically?

“I say we just follow the map; the nice lady gave us as we paid our fee at the entrance,” I stated.

“Of course,” Laureen replied. But I knew that of course was really a rolling of her eyes. I like things simple, she’s the brains in the family and likes the chronological, thematically and geographically concepts.

As we entered, we started through the Hall of Earth Sciences which features a life-size mastodon and her calf. There were other ancient fossils, a redundancy there, allowing the visitor a glimpse into the past of the marvelous living animals who once roamed the county of San Bernardino.

Mama and baby

An extinct Giant Sloth

“I guess the theme here is big animals,” I stated.

No reply. But I think I actually heard her eyes roll that time.

Wolves stared down at us from a rock faced overlook as we made our way through this exhibit hall and moved onto the Hall of History. I didn’t want to guess their theme.

Here we learned how the first people in what would become California referred to the land as the Sacred Earth. How the locals made baskets, pottery, tools from the native plants and soil. How they lived off the land and prospered.

I suggested that Laureen try making sandals from the Joshua Tree; she is very crafty. But when I looked around to see her reaction, I found myself standing alone as she was moving away from me and my comment, toward the ascending ramp. No sandals in the Beyer home, I guess.

We moved to the second level where more and more awesome sights were awaiting us.

The Hall of Biodiversity had an incredible collection of wildlife commonly found in and around San Bernardino County. There were birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, and I believe a model of a space alien found in the High Desert. Then again, it could have just been the model of the Old Woman meteorite. 

Everywhere we looked were in depth descriptions of how the climate and geography of the region personally effects all living things, be that animal or plant.

A great place for school fieldtrips, I would assume. And correct I was.

Myers stated, “As the pandemic ends, we expect fieldtrips to return, and we look forward to welcoming students back.”

Speaking of schools, (and who isn’t nowadays?), all the ‘hands-on’ exhibits were temporarily closed to nasty and germ ridden hands of humans.

“We believe hands-on interactive exhibits extend the learning experience and increase engagement, and we look forward to bringing them back when it is safe to do so.”

Well, there was one hands-on experience Laureen found near the new exhibit, ‘Here comes the sun: solar science and spirituality.’

I caught up with Laureen at a large plasma ball. The ones if you put a hand on the globe, arcs of light magically go from the center of the ball to the touching hand. I’d go into greater detail but, I don’t have a clue how it works. It was developed by Nikola Tesla. Enough said.

Laureen was there with two cute and very curious young boys who were showing and explaining to her how to hold her hand on the globe. The boy’s mother was taking photographs with her phone as the boys continued their lesson. I think Laureen learned a lot.

I loved it. This mom had taken her two very young boys to the museum and allowed them to wander, with her right there alongside, and investigate all there was to investigate in that museum.

We parted ways and I knew I had just watched two future scientists in the making.

This exhibit also featured a substantial space with threes huge screens immersing the visitor in dramatic and colorful footage from NASA’s solar dynamic observatory.

Dramatic is really an understatement. The sun’s surface changed colors constantly but slowly, allowing us a chance to marvel at the intensity of that natural fusion reactor we wake to each morning.

Yes, where stellar nucleosynthesis transforms lighter elements into heavier elements with the release of energy. Binding energy for different atomic nuclei.

In all modesty, I Googled that.

This exhibit was so dramatic, that we spent several minutes posing in front of the burning suns surface. It was fun and silly.

According to Myers, “One of our newest and most visited exhibits is the solar one. It helps to tell the story of how the sun has shaped the culture of Southern California.”

I didn’t need an exhibit to tell me that. Smell the sunscreen at any Southern California beach during the summer and we know how the sun has affected us all.

“I think you’ve laid out long enough in the sun.”

“No, I want to be lobster red tonight. It’s such a great look with my white shorts.”

We found all the exhibits well laid out, explained perfectly, and positioned just right for visitors.

“Different exhibits appeal to different visitors,” Myers said. “Some people love the immersive cave and giant ground sloth in our Sculptured by Time exhibit, while others enjoy a more relaxing stroll through our new outdoor Ethnobotany Garden space where they can learn about traditional ecological knowledge of the areas indigenous peoples.”

Okay, this David Myers is one smart guy. All I know is that when going outdoors of the museum, there are lots of cool looking plants to stroll through in a relaxed fashion.

According to Barb Williams, bellevuebotantical.org, ‘Ethnobotany is the study of how people of a particular culture and region make use of indigenous (native) plants.’

It is fascinating how humans looked at all the different varieties of plants growing nearby and determined what needs could be taken care of by these plants.

“Hey, this tree bark may stop the pounding in my head.”

“This river reed may make a snazzy pair of sandals.”

“And maybe this green plant may, wow, is that Jimmie Hendrix?”

We wandered here and there and thoroughly enjoyed our trip through the halls of the museum. It’s open and the place was packed while we were there. Seemed to us that most guests were families with young children.

That was a great sight. After a year of pandemic lock down, parents were taking their children out an about. And one of those places was the museum.

Myers seemed excited about so many visitors once again. “We’ve missed our visitors and are thrilled to welcome them back with two new exhibits. In addition to Here Comes the Sun, in June we are opening Super Monster City, a traveling exhibit that explores the social and political context of superheroes and villains through toys and posters.”

The San Bernardino County Museum, located at 2024 Orange Tree Lane, Redlands, is a wonderful experience for all ages. Plenty of activities, displays, photographs, exhibits, and all the rest that make this place worthwhile for anyone who wants to learn the history of San Bernardino County.

And who wouldn’t want to learn all they could?

Laureen Beyer beneath the large welcome sign

A personal note: this blog was written during the ending of the Corona-virus pandemic. As of now, everything is open to enjoy.