The Not so Ghost Town of Ransburg

Welcome to Randsburg, CA

Standing midway down Butte Ave, I believed I was in a new filming for the hundredth Mad Max series.

Run for your lives - nope, everything is safe

Dozens of RZRs, dune-buggies, dirt bikes, off road golf carts, and gyrocopters came screaming out of the northwest through this tiny burg.

Folks dressed head to toe in leathers, cottons, tree bark, and stretched out leggings barreling through this living ghost town one mile south of Highway 395 made a person pause.

There were mullets on helmets. Sideburns on helmets. Mohawks on helmets, and helmets on helmets.

It was surreal, but I did not stand in the middle of the road for long, not wanting to end up as roadkill, which was being served for lunch I was told at the local park. 

“It’s really good if it is fresh, with not too many tread marks,” a grizzled miner may have uttered.

I was in Randsburg, a supposed ghost town that seemed pretty alive.

“Fall, winter, and spring are our busiest times of year,” noted Neil, the owner of The Joint. “People love camping out in the desert nearby and then rolling in here for lunch and perhaps a cold beverage.”

Sort of funny, “rolling in here” by the owner of ‘The Joint.’ Just saying.

The Joint in Randsburg

Actually, in all transparency stopping by any saloon usually makes my day. It gets mighty thirsty on the road.

Interior view of The Joint in Randsburg, CA

I had traveled through Randsburg many times on my way here and there along Highway 395. It’s a quaint locale with friendly folks, an interesting history, and clean free public restrooms in the town’s city park.

A must for a traveler.

The definition of a ghost town, according to Dictionary.com, is a town that was once thriving  that has been completely abandoned. According to Geotab.com a ghost town was once a thriving community that has dwindled over the decades. According to Oregon.gov, ghost towns are abandoned villages or cities, often with substantial visible remains.

Well, that last one could mean a whole lot of towns and cities now in California.

“You know, Neil,” I said. “You live in a ghost town according to what I’ve read.”

He just looked at me and wandered back into The Joint.

I should have stuck with the one definition I knew had to be accurate from theydon’tknowwhattheyaretalkingabout.com which stated that a ghost town is what people call places they have not traveled to.

Downtown Randsburg

Randsburg is not a ghost town. Sure, there are ghosts, according to the paranormal folks, locals, and a few miners who told me they have shared bottles of whiskey with the ghosts - okay, but it is not a ghost town in any sense of common sense.

Prior to Neil abandoning me in the street, he did state there is a ghost of a miner that sits atop the roof of The Joint. The ghost is supposedly a disgruntled ex-customer who was told eons ago that he was no longer welcome due to his bad behavior. I glanced up to ensure no wily bearded miner was lingering atop the building and dashed inside in case I may end up with a dropped pickaxe on my noggin.

No, this tiny town 68 miles northwest of Victorville and 138 miles northeast of  Los Angeles has a lot of life to it and a wonderfully interesting history.

Randsburg is known as one of the small towns within the gold and silver mining belt of Kern County.

 Randsburg, as well as Red Mountain and Johannesburg - other so-called ghost towns, that were once hustling and bustling jurisdictions where gold and silver could just be picked off the desert floor.

“Looky, Maxwell,” a dandy of a miner may have shouted after picking up a three ton solid gold nugget. “I be rich!”

That is not true. 

Community church in Randsburg, CA

Randsburg is located in the Rand Mining District, named after the Rand Mountains where it is located along with Red Mountain and Johannesburg.

According to the Los Angeles Daily News, three down-and-out miners wandered the Rand Mountains in 1895 and stumbled across a huge gold bonanza southwest of Ridgecrest - later to become Randsburg.

The miners who had been down-and-out were Frederic Mooers, John Singleton, and Charles Burcham and rumor has it that Frederic smiled at his two buddies and said, “Guess we are no longer down-and-outers.”

Where Singleton may have replied, “I can’t wait to see the face on my mother-in-law now.”

But with all history things can become a bit wonky. According to other research it was actually Frederic Mooers and William Langdon who actually found solid traces of gold in the Rand Mountains  in 1894. It was in 1895 that Singleton and Burcham were brought into the partnership, along with Dr Rose. 

Whatever be the case, the Rand Mining District was created in December of 1895 and a gold rush began. Some reports state that it was one of, if not, the largest gold rushes in California history with the Yellow Aster mine being the centerpoint of gold discovery.

Starting with just a few folks mining for riches soon turned into a boom and by 1896 more than 1,500 people were calling the area home.

Of course, where there is one mine, soon many more started opening up as more and more deposits were located. King Solomon, Jolly Girls, Monkey Wrench, Bully Boy, and Look What I Found were just some of the mines that soon opened.

By the end of 1897, folks were getting very rich working the various mines in the Rand Mining District, especially the Yellow Aster which produced more than $600,000 in gold, which is about $22,000,000 today.

Another rumor is that when Singleton’s mother-in-law heard the news, she simply said, “You call that money?”

One of the old mines located in Randsburg, CA

So much ore was coming out of the earth that it was hard to transport to various locations for processing; Garlock and Barstow. Shipping the ore over the newly built Randsburg Railways was slow due to the extent of the output, so a thirty-stamp mill was built in 1899 in Randsburg. Soon a much larger one hundred stamp mill was called for to handle all the ore being taken from the various mines in the area.

By 1901 the Yellow Aster mine was kicking out $120,000 worth of gold each month, well over four million dollars today. Silver was also being mined with huge profits from adjourning mines that covered the Rand Mountains.

Like all boom towns, it wasn’t just miners that got into action. Nope, plenty of saloons, gambling halls, and brothels showed up to ensure the miners did not walk away with all that cash in their pockets alone.

To save the souls of the now nearly 2,500 citizens of Randsburg in 1897, churches began to sprout up along the narrow and congested streets. Since some of the miners were married, as well as the shopkeepers, schools also were constructed.

It was a good time for all.

In 1898 two devastating fires erupted and nearly destroyed the entire town of Randsburg, but some quick thinking individuals used dynamite to blow up structures creating a break where the fire could not spread from block to block.

With the tough spirit of these pioneers, the town was rebuilt even better than before.

An interesting side note concerns neighboring Red Mountain, where numerous accounts state that during prohibition, folks all the way from Los Angeles would travel there during the weekends to partake in the over 30 saloons and brothels located in the area.

A tidbit here, Dr. Rose Burcham is not only considered one of the first pioneer female physicians in Southern California but in 1904, the Los Angeles Times honored her with, ‘Men of Achievement in The Great Southwest Mining’. - the only successful woman mine operator in the southwest.

A hardy and smart woman, she outlived her mining partners, dying in 1944 after retiring to the state of Alabama.

By 1934, with the depression and the ore not producing as much gold or silver as in the past, the town started to dry up. Folks moved on to the next boomtown but today Randsburg is still very much alive with shops, restaurants, saloons, and places to stay for the night.

The small town offers wonderful events throughout the year, including; Old West Day, Bluegrass Jamboree, Mohave Dirt Bike Rally, Don’t Fall Into An Empty Mineshaft Day, and so much more for the visitor. 

And if camping in the wide open desert isn’t your cup of Joe, then there are places to stay for the night in Randsburg, from the Cottage Hotel Bed and Breakfast, to numerous Airbnbs - some supposedly used as cribs utilized by the soiled doves in the day. May have to use the Old West Dictionary for that description.

Cottage Hotel, one of many places to stay at Randsburg, CA

Though I’ve traveled through Randsburg for years, I learn something new with each visit, and isn’t that the way adventures go?

Daniel, a bartender at the Joint, poured me a drink. “Are you coming back?”

I may be there already.

The Trial of the ENGWE L20 2.0

Having a travel blog and writing a weekly travel column, Beyer's Byways  for USA Network, folks sometimes ask us to visit a certain place to experience what travelers may experience, or offer us a product to review (not buy or given) that may make certain types of travel a little easier.

One such thing was the new ENGWE L20 2.0 peddle assist electric utility Ebike - John agreed to put it to through some tests and then review it.

Again, in all transparency, we do not receive any remunerations from ENGWE and just agreed to review their new mode of transportation. 

And here is that review.

ENGWE L20 2.0

When receiving anything via land delivery, the first concern is how the item was packaged by the manufacturer, especially if assembly is required. Thus with the receipt of the new ENGWE L20 2.0 peddle assist electric utility Ebike, it was comforting to see how well-secured every aspect of the bike, in the carton. Styrofoam surrounded all essential parts with all parts were wrapped tightly with plastic bands and cardboard boxes – there have been times in the past when we have had to return parcels due to incorrect packing techniques which quickly sours a buyer on the purchase.

With the easy-to-read instructions and all tools needed supplied by ENGWE, the actual time from removing the bike to full assemblage is less than 45 minutes. And one of the unexpected features on this specific Ebike, was that a handle is placed on top of the battery pack below the seat post. With any foldable Ebike, and with the weight of the L20 2.0 hovering at nearly 69 pounds, this handle made if far easier to hoist the Ebike into the rear of an SUV.

I was interested in trying out this new Ebike on the road and knew with its 750W motor (peak delivery at an estimated 1125w) it should be fast enough to serve any cyclist’s needs. Also, with the adjustable front suspension forks, the ride can be adjusted for most terrain and for the comfort of each individual rider’s weight.

The range for the L20 2.0 is stated at 80 miles in peddle-assist mode but this would probably be under a perfectly paved flat land with a rider not tipping the scales too high. This range though would be suitable for the majority of people who desire an Ebike with a distance which would carry them around town, off-road adventures, or simply cruising down a beach boardwalk.

There are two metal racks on the L20 2.0 – one over the rear fender and one over the front fender allowing this utility bike to be just that, an all-around Ebike for grocery shopping, or packing items for a day’s outing.

Living in a rural community in the Southern California desert, I took this Ebike through some pretty challenging roads, paths, and steep sandy terrain. Impressive was the quick electric assist when needed as I peddled through a rather deep dry sand wash – in fact, I stopped peddling and allowed the electric motor do the job of getting through the deep inches of fine, silty ground. With the throttle located strategically on the right handle, adjusting the speed was simply accomplished by a slight turn of the wrist. Also, with the large knobby fat tires the L20 2.0 had no issue accomplishing the feat and soon a harder packed road was found. A few days after a rare heavy rain, the path was marked by multiple deep hardened ruts, but the front suspension seemed to handle it well with just a slight pounding which would be expected from such a surface, no matter the mode of transportation involved.

On a relatively flat asphalt roadway the Ebike ride was comfortable, especially with the wide, fully adjustable ergonomic cushioned seat, front suspension and fat tires. Shifting gears was smooth with a flick of the left thumb and I did not notice any hesitation from one gear either shifting from low to high or high to low. With the standard Disc brake system, the stopping distance was clean, straight, and quick. With the peddle assist and geared up, the L20 2.0 matched the 28 mph that is advertised.

The easy-to-read 2 ½ by 3 ½ LCD display allowed me to visualize the speed, distance traveled, and battery level at a quick glance.

One small negative was the placement of the headlight which is attached to the front rack. This would take some getting used to when turning in the dark with the light not focused where the front wheel was turning. 

Overall, the new ENGWE L20 2.0 seemed a well-constructed, sturdy peddle-assisted electric utility bike for the average rider. And with many electric bikes tipping the scales in the thousands of dollars, the starting price of $799.00 puts this Ebike as a very reasonable choice for the consumer.

Again, we are not promoting ENGWE but just wanted to post the review. 

For more information: https://engwe-bikes.com/products/l20-2-0

 

Hoover Dam, a dam good tour

Decades ago, Laureen and I took our very young children to visit the Hoover Dam. Recently we revisited that trip and none of it looked familiar to me. Of course, in all transparency I sometimes wear mismatched socks - so, not remembering an adventure 20 years in the past seems to be not a big deal.

“Remember when Jessica asked if you had worked on the dam?” Laureen said, as we hiked from the furthest parking lot from the Hoover Dam visitor center. “That was funny.”

I smiled. Nope, I didn't recall that question from my daughter, though I do have memories of hanging off the cliffs on a single rope while drilling dynamite holes into the rock face as we began building the Boulder Dam.

Not John R Beyer at work, but this is how it was done 

“No,” I replied, “but what was funny was when I dropped the pick hammer and it landed in Joey’s head at the bottom of the canyon. Now, that was funny. Except, Joey did walk and talk a bit differently after that.”

Laureen had arranged for a tour of the Hoover Dam, along with 33 of our closest strangers. She believed it was a total dam tour but as we stood in line with our phones ready to scan at the visitor’s center, we learned it was for the power plant section of the dam only.

“I thought it was for the whole dam,” Laureen said.

“Shouldn’t curse,” I replied.

Hoover Dam is an architectural masterpiece - pure genius, guts, and engineering.

Without going into too much history of why Boulder Dam was built in the first place, there were three major reasons - flood control since the river loved to surprise folks living shoreside with unpredicted floods which wiped out crops and towns, to provide controlled/regulated irrigation for farms which help to feed the population, and produce hydroelectric power for all those people who had moved into California, Arizona, and Nevada.

Seemed the thing to do.

In 1869, John Wesley Powell led a group of adventurers down the raging Colorado River in wooden boats. This river’s path and ferocity was unknown to most people, even the Native Americans who had lived near the flowing water for eons.

Powell managed to make it through the sometimes Class 5 rapids in the Grand Canyon and lived to write about it. He was a strong leader, who had served in the Civil War for the Union side and actually lost half of his arm during the Battle of Shiloh in Tennessee but this did not slow the adventurer down.

It was his final reports after the journey down this magnificent river in the southwest that made folks in the east understand the importance it had to the development of the country. Rich mineral finds, large tracts of vacant lands perfect for farming and grazing, and great weather made the idea of converting this river into a life giving bloodline for pioneers could be crucial for an expanding nation.

And, the pioneers heard the call and moved west.

In 1902, Arthur Powell Davis who worked for the Bureau of Reclamation decided that perhaps a dam should be built, or multiple dams.

It would be 30 years before the construction for such an ambitious project could begin.

Laureen and I wandered along with the tour to visit the power plants that make Hoover Dam so important to millions of people living in the southwest.

Over 7 million guests visit the huge Hoover Dam yearly which borders the states of Nevada and Arizona - there is actually a stamp along the dam where a photo can be snapped showing where a person could stand between both states. I chose Nevada - no personal state income tax.

A bridge for vehicles and pedestrians span the Colorado River

Our guide, Matt, was young and very well versed about the dam and the power plants we were visiting.

“We are now five hundred and thirty-six feet deep into the dam,” Matt said, after we had taken an elevator into the depths of the cement structure.

It was a bit surreal, realizing that on either side of where we were standing there was about a trillion gallons of water pushing against the thick cement walls of the dam. 

Laureen Beyer deep within Hoover Dam

“If these walls busted,” I said to Laureen, “we’d be in Mexico in a matter of minutes.”

My lovely wife has a bit of claustrophobia, so I didn’t press the issue. 

“Isn’t that weird? We could be at Cabo Wabo within an hour. Margaritas on me,” I continued.

She gripped my hand so tightly that I looked to see if she had changed places with Chuck Norris.

Matt continued with his dialogue about the building of the Hoover Dam and it was awe inspiring.

“We have to remember that the dam was started in nineteen-thirty-one and finished in nineteen-thirty-six, two years earlier than the date promised,” Matt said. “And, this was men working with picks, shovels, drills, dynamite, and sweat. An unbelievable accomplishment, no matter the year.”

Drill marks can still be seen near Hoover Dam

At the time such a construction was thought impossible. A building project as the Boulder Dam (it was later renamed Hoover Dam) had never been done and was the largest manmade endeavor attempted at the time. 

But that did not stop the chutzpah of American knowhow.

With the leadership of  Chief Engineer Frank Crow starting in 1931, the building of the dam and safety of his crews was most on his mind.

Over 5,000 workers were employed to construct the dam and the pay was not wonderful, generally four dollars per day - of course, those who had more dangerous jobs could earn another dollar. It should be noted though, this was during the Great Depression and lines of men from Las Vegas waited daily for a chance to earn a buck or two for their families.

In the years of the building, less than 100 men died during the construction - any death is a tragedy but for such a mammoth and long term project, it was not unexpected deaths would occur.

“And for those who have heard the rumors,” Matt said. “No one was covered by cement and died. No, the deaths were from men falling off cliffs, blasting accidents, heat exhaustion, drowning, and other causes. Terrible as that is.”

During our tour we learned that the amount of cement used is almost unimaginable. “Over four point three million cubic yards of cement was used,” Matt informed us.

“How much is that?” I asked Laureen, she’s smarter in these matters than me.

She simply rolled her eyes. “A lot.”

Turns out that amount of cement could produce a 16 foot highway from New York City to the city of San Francisco. That is a lot of concrete.

South side of Hoover Dam - that's a lot of concrete

We were hundreds of feet down into the dam, which is over 660 feet wide at the bottom of Boulder Canyon and a narrow 45 feet at the top, where tourists can walk.

“The dam is so wide at the bottom, that twenty percent of the cement is still curing,” Matt told the visitors.

He asked if there were any questions. “How long does the government believe this dam will last,” I asked.

“Good question,” the guide said. “Back in the fifties it was examined and determined it would last one thousand years.”

There was an audible gasp. “But today, we believe it will be closer to four thousand years. Every once in a while core samples are taken from the bottom and studied, that’s how the engineers came up with that last figure.”

In a few minutes we reentered the elevator and traveled upwards about 50 feet to where we were able to view the huge steel turbines stationed within the walls of the dam. 

Turbines on the Arizona side of Hoover Dam

“Above us are two cranes needed to lift these turbines,” Matt said. “They are able to lift three hundred tons each.”

Looking across the nearly 650 feet to the other end of the cavernous interior of the dam was amazing. Fork lifts, trucks, and everything needed to keep these turbines which produced ample energy for millions of people looked like toys in comparison to each of the size of the machinery.

There are 17 such turbines in the complex, nine on the Arizona side and eight on the Nevada side. Our guide went into a monologue about the megawatts produced as billions of gallons of water rushed into each turbine spinning its innards like a washing machine - except a whole lot faster.

I was suddenly confused with all the technical talk. 

Just one of the water pipes within Hoover Dam

Soon the tour was over and as we walked across the top of the dam, I could only ponder what John Wesley Powell would think about this dam which tamed the mighty Colorado River.

I suspect he would smile.

For more information: Hoover Dam | Bureau of Reclamation (usbr.gov)