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Wednesday, December 17, 2025

Re-Visit to Pisgah Crater


Pisgah Crater

I have written about the marvelous Pisgah Crater about twenty miles east of the town of Newberry Springs in the past. Even wrote a fictional account of it titled, Secret of Pisgah Crater.

Most people probably never notice the lurking dark volcanic cinder cone which is bordered on the south by the Lava Bed Mountains, to the southeast by the Bullion Mountains, to the west by the Rodman Mountains, and to the north by the Cady Mountains - though it is easily seen from either Route 66 or Interstate 40.

Looking north from Pisgah Crater toward Route 66 and Interstate 40

For most travelers, it is just another hill along the vast stretches of the Mojave Desert, a seemingly never ending patch of brown dirt and sand sparsely covered with sporadic Creosote, Sage, Salt bushes and the occasional Ocotillo.

Many may think it is just a large dead piece of land. 

But, there lies its mystique and wonder. Because this desert is neither dead nor barren - it is full of life with bounding hares, sly Kit Foxes, Kangaroo rats, squirrels, and sometimes, if a person is fortunate enough, the elusive Bighorn Sheep. 

Of course, during certain months of the year a visitor should be aware of the other things crawling across the miles and miles of desert floor, from the venomous snakes like the Sidewinder, the Diamond Back, and the Mojave rattlesnakes, to the more benign California Kingsnake, the Gopher, and other harmless varieties of snakes.

Be careful hiking in the Mojave Desert 

Then there are countless lizards like the Common chuckwalla, the Desert horned, the Desert iguana, or the Mojave fringe-toed who spend their day sunning upon rocks or hunting for insects for nourishment. 

Circling the clear blue skies the tourist may catch a glimpse of the Swainson’s Hawk, a Cactus Wren, or a quick footed Roadrunner, along with the Common Raven and possibly a Seagull or two.

The Mojave Desert is a land full of life and action. 

I never forget the majesty of the desert while traveling the rough back roads crisscrossing here and there in this empty landscape.

It is a quiet, unhurried, and calming place to visit. An almost rebirth of one's senses - be that a little over dramatic, it is how I feel while driving through it.

The same sense of peace came over me recently while re-visiting Pisgah Crater.

It is a relatively new volcano, though not active, having last erupted approximately 20,000 to 50,000 years ago. Though some geologists believe an eruption may have occurred as recently as 2,000 years ago. 

Years ago, I camped at the crater while a rock band was filming a music video. It was surreal - I had come for peace and quiet and suddenly found myself surrounded with dozens of extras dressed as zombies approaching a stage while a helicopter buzzed the crater filming the whole thing.

John R Beyer with extra for music video, Lola

It was midnight before the multitude of trucks, gear, and people exited the roughly paved road toward Interstate 40, leaving me in total darkness and solitude.

The crater was the site of the Mount Pisgah Volcanic Cinders Mine, where tons of pumice was mined for use for the railroad ballast along the Santa Fe Railroad lines. Now it belongs to a Canadian company, Can-Cal Resources Limited, who specialize in exploration for precious metals. In the half dozen times I’ve visited the site in the past years I’ve never seen anyone working the crater though.

Multi-colored minerals litter the floor of Pisgah Crater

One of the many remarkable things about the Pisgah crater is the black sand that permeates the entire area, besides the red and black cinder pumice. It’s very fine and was used as the black sands for the film Letters from Iwo Jima, produced in 2006.

Drone view of Pisgah Crater with mounds of black sand

Recently I re-visited Pisgah Crater to sit back and relax. This time there was no one there - the way I like it.

The top of the crater rises about 320 feet above the surrounding desert, much has been removed through the years from all the mining operations that occurred there, as well as just centuries of natural erosion. 

For the brave, there are numerous lava tubes - which is a natural tunnel created when a solid tunnel is formed after molten lava has cooled from an eruption. I am not into any sort of spelunking and only have braved short trips through the 200 or so tunnels at Pisgah. And, for the more adventurous there is one nearly 1,300 feet long known as the SPJ Cave.

Ancient lava flows span out miles in circumference from the crater reaching Interstate 40 to the north and allowing drivers to cut through the black ribbons of the pahoehoe texture along Route 66.

Just some of the miles and miles of hardened lava

From a geologic standpoint, it is amazing and many weekends throughout the year teams of geologists can be seen studying the terrain from various universities and professional seminar groups.

On this last visit, I was alone and took out a folding camp chair, cracked open a cold one and just sat marveling at how truly the Mojave Desert was from my vantage point atop the crater.

It was surreal, and that was the way I liked it.

For more information:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pisgah_Crater

John can be reached at: beyersbyways@gmail.com

If anyone would like a free copy of the short story, Secret of Pisgah Crater, just request it and it will be sent to you via attachment in an email.





Wednesday, November 26, 2025

Happy Thanksgiving!


We at J and L Research and Exploration want to wish everyone a wonderful and Happy Thanksgiving. Enjoy time with family and friends during this upcoming Holiday Season - it is truly a special time of year.

As President John F. Kennedy once said; "We must find the time to stop and thank the people who make a difference in our lives."

Perhaps that should be an every day occurrence.





Friday, November 21, 2025

Off-Roading near Calico Ghost Town

I’ve written about Calico Ghost Town numerous times for various publications. In fact, one of those articles is still up on the County of San Bernardino’s website about the old mining camp not far north of Interstate 15, just northeast of Barstow.

It is a wonderful place to spend the day or a couple of days while camping in the various rough or full hook-up spots that Calico has to offer. There’s a lot to see and do at Calico, but one experience that I had not explored was off-roading in and around the famous ghost town.

One of many off-roading trails near Calico Ghost Town

Recently, I decided to do just that. Contacting my good buddy, Paul, we grabbed a few days and loaded up my Can-Am, and off we went to see what there was to see along miles upon miles of dirt trails.

We were not going to be disappointed.

Just before leaving, a good friend of mine, Trevor, looked the car over and gave it a thumbs up for any activity but one. 

“Stay away from Odessa Canyon,” he said. “It’s pretty gnarly and you have to be practically an expert on it.”

“You’re saying I’m not an expert at off-roading?” I asked.

We’ve been on rides together in the past. “No.”

I like Trevor, a straight shooter who has seen me cringe on a 15-degree hill. Of course, I’ve seen him power up a 90-degree monster hill with no issue. Impossible? You haven’t seen him drive.

“What did Trevor say?” Paul asked.

“For me to stay on the flat paths.”

The surrounding BLM lands bordering Calico offer any type of off-roader a plethora of options.

An easy off-roading trail near Calico Ghost Town

There’s Mule Canyon, an easy ten-mile drive that allows for panoramic views of the desert while still enjoying the thrill of cutting up a few hills. 

There’s the Wall Street Canyon, which is a moderate road that most should have no issue with. I had to go and check on my portfolio - I’m going to tell my lovely wife, Laureen, time for a new Can-Am and a boat.

Then there are the more difficult routes available, like Doran Canyon, which is seven miles of steep inclines and steeper declines. It is suggested that the driver is good behind the wheel, has 360-degree vision, and has not been drinking a six-pack of beer before attempting this trail.

Then there is the Odessa Canyon. Eight miles of death-defying madness, including rock climbing - in a vehicle over waterfalls, huge boulders, steep walls, and the occasional Sasquatch.

We did enter the canyon but turned around when I saw the posted sign, Think Hard!

So, I turned the car around and headed out on the path - John has no idea where he is going.

 For the next seven hours, the Beast, which is what Laureen refers to as our Can-Am, Paul and I drove here and there. Up and down across the desert, canyons, ridges, and across a lake full of reeds.

No, that was in Peru.

The Beast

Anyway, we had a great outing, as we did the following day, not knowing where we were but always finding our way back to camp for an evening of lying about our adventures.

That is what guys do.

The purpose of being outdoors, either with an off-road vehicle or not, is to relish in what nature has to offer. Peace and solitude.

Sure, off-roaders may be noisy, but most drive to see things they haven’t seen and then stop, pull out some folding chairs, sit, and talk about the adventure. 

Most of the time, there are no phones, internet - just communicating with friends and sometimes people you have just met while on the trails. 

Obviously, plenty of trails to choose from

Paul and I ran into, figuratively, Sam - a retired army vet who was camping near the Early Man site off of Minneola Road near Yermo.

Sam had been camping in his motorhome for nearly two weeks. A nice guy who sat with us on one of our stops.

It was only a twenty-minute talk with him, but enough to appreciate how much he loved this country, obviously by his 25 years in the service, and was now crossing the country to see what he could see.

Once back at camp, we decided to wander up to the town itself, where we met Britney Swenson working behind the bar at Lil’s Saloon.

Britney has worked at Lil’s Saloon for years and entertained us with tales concerning the ghost town and the myriad of visitors exploring the old mining town. But the most interesting thing about Britney is the fact that she is in the Guinness Book of World Records. She is credited with weaving a blind horse, Smoke, through 5 poles in 6.5 seconds during the Desert Empire Fairgrounds and Event Center in Ridgecrest on November 19, 2023. 

I can’t even make it to the bathroom that fast in the middle of the night.

John R Beyer with Britney Swenson

After an hour and maybe a cold one or two, we called it quits and bade farewell to the Champ.

As we packed up to leave for home the following day, I knew there would be an article, not about the town but the wonderful dirt trails awaiting those with an adventurous spirit. But caution needs to be taken seriously.

According to Truckbrigade.com, off-roaders need to be careful while venturing around and about the trails near Calico Ghost Town.

Never enter open mines or mine shafts. These historic sites contain deadly hazards, including unstable rock, bad air, deep shafts, and rotted timbers. Observe mining ruins from safe distances. Taking artifacts is illegal and destroys California's gold rush history for future generations.

One of the signs telling the visitor the history of mining near Calico

Years in the past, I would purchase a series of books titled Death in the National Parks by Randi Minetor and Michael P. Ghiglieri. The books detailed how people died in the many National Parks around the nation.

An example would be a tourist who would want to take a selfie with a bison in Yellowstone National Park. The bison may be having a bad hair day and gore them while tossing them into the hinterlands. This could also be referred to as the Darwin Effect.

So, the idea is to read the signs and not enter when instructed. Ride and enjoy the wonderful off-road trail offered near Calico Ghost Town, but do not become the next chapter in someone else’s book about what not to do when you are dumb.

For further information:

https://truckbrigade.com/blogs/trail-guides/calico-ghost-town-off-road-trails

https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/709862-fastest-time-for-a-blind-horse-to-weave-five-poles 

https://parks.sbcounty.gov/park/calico-ghost-town-regional-park/

https://parks.sbcounty.gov/park/calico-ghost-town-regional-park/#tab-food 

John can be reached at: beyersbyways@gmail.com